bansheesandrider

DO NOT tie the two circuits together, the stock regulator can not handle that much amperage. The moose instructions say you need to add a second regulator and they recomend what one to use. I don't think the stock regulator will work on the higher wattage circuit, but I am not positive about that. I am positive if you tie the two together it will fry the stock regulator. It might not do it immediately but it will do it.

Two strokes burn more gas because each cylinder fires every revolution instead of every other revolution like a four stroke does- that is also why a two stroke makes more power for a given displacement. 2.5-3 hours is all I can get out of a tank on my banshee and most of my friends Banshees are the same.

tried your link, could not find the page with the shift drum and forks. Thanks for your help.

Can anybody help me with this?

Does any body know where I can get a GOOD set of genuine RZ350 shift forks with the rollers on the guide pins? I have looked them up online on the Yamaha parts sites and every source says they have been replaced with the Banshee style forks. Or, does anybody have an old micrfiche that has the original RZ350 numbers, so I could search for some New Old Stock ones?

I bought a Rick's Electrics CDI box last year while I was at St. Anthony's and had problems with it from the get go-bike would miss and sputter, thought it was my jetting due to the altitude. Got back to Oregon and jetted for here, the next ride the thing had to be towed to start when cold, but would kick start when hot. Eventually i had to tow it every time. Got home checked everything out and tried another OEM box I had and the bike started right up and ran fine. I called Rick's and they said I had to go through where I bought it. So I had to call Rexburg Motorsports in ID and have them call Rick's. Eventually I sent it to Rick's and they did replace it- when I got it I plugged it in, made sure it worked, and then put it away for a spare. So, if you buy from Rick's Electrics make sure it is either directly from them, or an authorized dealer. Good luck.

Check the shift shaft for wear- the hook should not have very much side play or wobble in it. Then check the adjustment of the shift shaft hooks relative to the shift star- both upper and lower hooks should be equal distance from the pins on the star. If they are not equal, adjust the eccentric. Good luck.

$130 for the Trinity shift drum does not seem bad cosidering what Yamaha wants for a new one and then having to modify it and ship it. Everybody that has used it seems to like it except for the price. Does anybody know where I can get genuine RZ shift forks (with the roller) in good shape, as the ones I look up online are the same part numbers as a Banshee? Or does anybody have the part number for the original RZ forks with the roller so I could search for some old stock?

I used to run Dune Runners on my Banshee, but two years ago I switched to the ITP Sand Stars with the twin ribs and it was a night and day difference. We ride alot of trails along the edge of the trees and I was getting tired of missing corners and sliding down the hill. I put the Dune Stars on and haven't missed a corner yet.

If the TORS box under the gas tank is unplugged and removed from the bike, the bike has a twist throttle on it so the throttle is unplugged, and the carb tops have been replaced with standard Mikuni round tops so the carb switches have been disconnected, what is left to remove the TORS system. If you look at the wiring diagram the green wire is only connected to the park brake switch and the CDI box- when the park brake is set it grounds that wire and when the CDI box sees ground on that wire internal circuitry in the box will only let it rev to a certain RPM while the brake is set. In no way is the green wire coonected to the TORS except possibly a shared ground wire.

So if the TORS was removed completely and the bike wouldn't rev up when the park brake was on and then it would rev up when the park brake was released, what was keeping it from revving? TORS stands for Throttle Over Ride System and is designed to prevent accidents from a stuck throttle- if the thumb throttle is in the idle position and the carb slides are not, the switches in both throttle and carbs are open and the TORS kills the power to the ignition, so it is not a rev control, it is an ignition control. STUDY a wiring diagram and learn how this stuff works, I have been a professional mechanic for 25 years and know how to read a wiring diagram, schematics and other technical documents.Also, I know of two other Banshees with TORS removed that still have their park brake on the bike and function this way.

WRONG, when I bougjt my wife's bike the TORS was removed- it had a twist throttle, standard Mikuni carb tops-not the OEM Yamaha ones, and the little black box under the left side was off the bike, so the TORS was definetly removed. If the park brake was set it would not rev up and it would miss and sputter. If you look at a wiring diagram, you will see the green wire goes from the CDI box to the park brake switch. Yamaha did this so you couldn't ride the bike with the park brake set. I have since done away with the green wire completely, as well as the park brake and it now revs freely always. Once again, only 97 and newer have this. Also. in my opinion, interchangeable means it can be installed without having to modify something!

I have been running R50 for over 15 years and have NEVER had an engine failure. My personal bike has 9 years on the current crankshaft and at least 5 years on the top end, I still have 160 psi compression, it was 180 when I put the top end together. My wife's 97 was bought used and has never been apart- I knew the last owner who had it for his wife it for 8 years and the girl he bought it from said she had not had it apart. The last owner and I both used R50, he is a riding buddy so i know him and his bikes well, I also wrench for him occasionally. Before I ran R50, I used Benol, but I had problems with it building carbon in the rings in the Blaster my wife used to have. I also use the Klotz transmission oil-KL506. It made me Banshee shift better than anything else I used-motor oil,ATF, Honda Tranny oil, BelRay Gearsaver, etc. When I was running motor oil or ATF I was showing metal particles in the oil when I drained it, so I split the cases but never found anything. After I switch to Klotz, the oil never has metal in it. This is just my opinion.

All FMF pipes that I know of are steel pipes with a nickel coating. The nickel coating might give off fumes that could make the person welding sick. That is the only reason I see for saying they can't weld them. You should be able to either TIG, wire feed, or Oxy/Acety weld them, but TIG will look the best.

The only seal retainer that I know of is the rib that is in the center of the stock seal and fits in the groove in the case. I would plan on splitting your cases as soon as possible and installing the seal the correct way. All the mechanics I have talked to say that the way that you did it is a short term repair to get through a weekend or a race. Any GOOD aftermarket seal for a Banshee, not a universal seal, should have the rib on it as well. Good luck.

I don't know if it is that expensive, when I checked, they wanted 130 which I assume is outright witha new drum from them. The best deal I could find on a new drum was 90 plus shipping and then I would need the mod done, so 130 doesn't seem bad.

I don't have a cyl. to measure at this time. I looked up the shift forks online and every thing shows part number 2GU-18511-00-00 for shift fork #1 which you need two of, this is for both the Banshee ans the RZ. For shift fok #2 which you need one of they show 4LO-18512-00-00 for the RZ and 2GU-18512-00-00 for the Banshee. I have been looking forever for Genuine RZ shift foks. Thanks for the other info.

Is that 30 bucks for parts and labor? Who is WCR? I am building a motor from scratch so I will have to buy a shift drum also. Are those RZ forks new, because the last time I checked with Yamaha they were selling Banshee forks for RZs? Are you using a Banshee drun or a RZ drum with the RZ forks?

Has anybody tried the Trinity shift drum mod where they machine the shift drum and add a bearing to the end that normally just spins in the case? Does it help with the shifting? Is there anybody else that does this mod? Or does anybody know the number for the bearing and the dimension that the drum is machined to?

It is different than a car because a car has a DC ignition system, the current is rectified to DC before it leaves the alternator.

If you are using OEM style gaskets with the silicone beads printed on them, install them dry and retorque when hot. If you are using a steel shim type head gasket, the only thing you should use is copper coat or silver spray paint, but the black coating that comes on stock gasket does the same thing.

My buddy's Banshee did this and it cracked the outer race of one of the bearings- I don't remember if it was a crank bearing or the tranny shaft bearing. We didn't find the crack until we split the cases,because he wanted to look things over because it had been several years sinse the motor was apart. My point is look EVERYTHING over very carefully. Good luck.

Everything else is a waste of time until you put pipes on a Banshee. Pipes should ALWAYS be the first thing you do to a Banshee!

NOT TRUE, 96 and older CDIs do not have the wire that goes to the park brake and won' t let it rev up. Also, different plugs mean they are not interghangeable- either the CDI box or the wire harness has to be modified to make it work. However, if the plug is the same, then you can interchange the CDI box.

Is the engine actually locking up or does it just lose power and come to a stop? If it is not locking up, check your gas cap vent. If it is plugged or not working properly it will not vent the tank and fuel will stop flowing. Mine does this because I have a shorty vent and an unbaffled cap, the fuel sloshes into the vent and evaporates leaving the oil in the vent to collect sand and plug up. Try riding the bike again and when the engine starts to die, loosen the gas cap and see if it starts running again. If it does, the vent is your problem. Good luck.