bansheesandrider

I was running BR8ES plugs in mine and it was still resetting, like I said before, the engineer at Trail Tech was baffled by it. After I went to the Vector unit, it has not reset one time.

I tried two different Vapor units and a total of three different tach pickup wires and it made no difference, hell I did not even have a tach pickup wire on the bike and it would reset. The engineer( yes the engineer that designed the thing, not just a service tech) at Trail Tech was baffled and he had the bike right in front of him.

I tried a Vapor on my 89 and had the same problem, if I revved it above 7 grand before it reached 100 degrees the Vapor would do a complete reset. I took the bike up to Trail Tech twice, they are 45 miles away. They tried all the different ways of hooking it up that they knew of, they replaced ALL the sensors, we tried a different Vapor unit, powered it with a 9V battery, I had resistor plugs,etc. Between the first and second times that I had it up there, I decide that it was to hard to read the tach while I was riding and that if I did not know when to shift it after 18 years of riding I shouldn't be on it, so when I wen't back the second time they swapped me out with a Vector. It works fkawlessly, and does what i want- speedo, temp, and hour meter for maintainence. I used the Trail Tech bracket that came with it because I had the early style brakes/spindles, but like the other guys said just figure out which hole in the brake shield lines up with the magnetic bolt, drill it out and mount the sensor there. Good luck.

Half of a quart is a pint which is 16 ounces. If you mix this with 5 gallons of fuel, you nwill be at 40:1. If you want to be at 32:1, then you need to mix 1 pint with 4 gallons of fuel. With Yamalube, I would stay at 32:1, but if you go with a better quality oil such as Klotz, Maxima, Amsoil, etc. then I would go 40:1 as they offer much better protection than Yamalube.

What does this mean? Did you get screwed by Alf or somebody else?

Like I said, if the claw is jumping off, it is probably wore out. But, the extended pins will increase the life of the shift shaft and possibly keep a ride from going bad. There is no excuse not to maintain your bikes, but some people don't have a full blown shop out back. They have a 1 or 2 car garage and a set of hand tools in a 20 inch tool box, for those people it makes sense to buy a ground shift star. If you need to buy a shift star, you might as well get one that will maximise the life of your shift shaft. Also, grinding the shift star makes a hell of a difference in the way a Banshee shifts. All this being said, I have a full blown shop, a huge Snap On roll around and maintain my bikes explicitly. The original clutch cover on my 20 year old Banshee shows no wear from the shift shaft and I had to replace the shaft once because the claw wore out, yes I caught it during routine maintaince. In closing, I would say if you need to but a shift star the Mull Engineering piece is the one to get.

Wrong, when the claw on the shift shaft starts wearing and getting sloppy, the claw can come off the star even if the shift shaft is held in the proper position by the case. Granted, this means the claw is getting worn,but it can still ruin a riding trip or at least cause some unexpected repairs and loss of riding time. Therefore, I thinh the longer pegs are a great idea, it extends the life of the shift shaft and might save a riding trip.

The clutch perch actually changed in 97 when they added the park brake rev limiter. Also I thought the purpose of this thread was what parts would fit what years WITHOUT modifying them. Almost all parts will fit all years of Banshees if you are willing to modify them or change something else.

X2 All K&N filters need to ALWAYS be oiled at all times, the oil is what stops the fine particle from getting through. NEVER oil the Outerwear, it will turn it into a big dirt collector, the idea of the outer wear is the large particles are supposed to be stopped by it and then fall away.

While you are in there make sure your gears on the crank and clutch basket don't have any nicks, burrs dents, or other damage on them.

I won't run any thing but a K&N with an Outerwear in the sand, but I have been told that a foam filter is better in the mud and dirt. That being said, I have seen sand granules work their way through a foam filter. My carbs, intakes and the 2 into 1 adapter on the filter are always clean on my bikes, I run the big Toomey style 2 into 1 filter with a K&N filter instead of the foam filter Toomey uses.

I have been running a Toomey clutch in my bike since 1995, yes the same clutch this whole time. I run 3 Toomey springs and 3 stock springs. The last time I had the clutch cover off it still looked in very good shape, it does not slip at all and I fan the clutch alot when I'm climbing hills in the dunes. I would recomend a 1 piece axle nut with a pinch bolt and blue loctite on both the axle and pinch bolt threads.

Yes there is a screw in the case, it is in the middle of the pressure and it runs against the ball, which runs against the pushrod which is what the actuator arm pushes on. It sounds like you could have welded the ball to the pushrod. This happens because the clutch lever is pulled in for to long and/or the engine is held at high revs for to long with the clutch pulled in.You will need to pull the clutch cover and pressure plate and see if the ball will come out of the shaft and if the pushrod is welded to it. If it is, you will need a new ball, pushrod and I would get the adjuster screw from Cascade that has the bearing on it. The Cascade adjuster will prevent this from happening again and it is the easiest one to ajust because it can be adjusted and locked down without having to take the pressure plate off to tighten the locknut. Also, I run Klotz Flex Drive 30 oil in my trans and have never had this problem even with the stock type adjuster. When you adjust the screw make sure there is a little bit of clearance at the actuator arm, technically, Yamaha says to line up the arrow on the arm with the arrow on the case. Good Luck.

They still need to be oiled, it should be a very light amount of oil. If oil is dripping moff the filter then you have over oiled it. I prefer to use the K&N oil that comes in a squeeze bottle, then you just barely get oil on the top of each pleat of the filter and let it soak down, if there are any white spots after it sits for about an hour go back and touch them up. The filter should be a pink color when it is properly oiled, not red. Every time I use the oil in the spray can, I end up with to much oil on the filter. I run an outerwear on mine always and I only clean my filter once or twice a season, and even then they are not that dirty. Also, there should not be any oil soaking into the outerwear.

Not without some rewiring, RZs were setup for DC electrics and Banshees are AC. If you want to do a DC conversion and run the RZ rectifier/regulator then you can make it work.

My expierience has been that people that learned to ride with a twist throttle ( dirt bike) love them and people that learned to ride with a thumb throttle (ATV) hate them. I have twists on all my quads and wouldn't have anything else. We had to put a twist on my kids Blaster when she was little because her thumb would get tired on rides and we would have to stop.

I would say that since your kick idler gear clip broke and came off, that a piece of it probably ran through your primary gears- the gear on the clutch basket and the crankshaft. Inspect those gears closely, looking for damaged teeth. Also, look at the kick idler gear teeth and bushing and the gear on the basket that meshes with the kick idler gear- all of this is turning in neutral and could cause a knock. When my clip came off because the idler gear bushing was wore, it damaged my big gear on the basket and put a slight burr on the crank gear. I repaced the basket ( only way to buy the gear) and ran the crank gear because we were at the dunes and I couldn't get one. It knocked slightly for a while until the burr wore down and has been fine since. When my buddies did this, he cracked the outer race on the crank bearing. If the idler gear bushing is wore, you can get a new bushing from FAST to go in your gear if the teeth are good, they are supposed to last longer also.

We are going to need to know what brand/model of rectifier and what color wires and how many of each color are on the rectifier. Also, you should be able to go on the manufacturer's website and get a wiring diagram.

If you have not floated the ground in the stator then you have not converted the bike to DC and that is why you smoked the ballasts. You need to remove the flywheel and the stator from the bike, find the screw terminal with the ground wire for the lighting side of the stator, you will have to remove some epoxy coating to get the screw out. Remove the screw and cut the terminal off the wire, you will have to solder on a piece of wire and route it out of the staor and connect it to the rectifier. This is called "floating the ground", once it is done properly and coorectly wired to the rectifier/regulator , you will have DC power for your HIDs, however, you may need a battery or capacitor to stabilize the voltage in the system. There is info on the Trail Tech site http://www.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/stators/AC-DC_Banshee_Stator_Conversion_Instructions.pdf that tells you how to do this and has some pictures. If you don't want to do all this, then you should add a battery, seperate wires and a switch connected just to the HIDs, you will then have to charge the battery with a charger or jumper cables from your truck. That will provide Dc power to the HIDs, but your run time will be limited, and you can not connect the battery or lights to any existing stuff on the bike. If you don't float the ground in the stator. there is no need to run a rectifier/ regulator, and you should stay with the stock regulator. Hope this helps.

Did you properly wire in the rectifier? You have to float the ground in the stator, add a wire and connect both wires to the rectifier/regulator. It has to be a regulator/rectifier for a DC conversion, not just a replacement regulater for the AC system that Yamaha set the bike up with. You will probably neeed to add either a battery or a capacitor to help stabilize the DC voltage also, some HIDs will work without it though.

You can use 10-30 or 10-40 oil as long as it is a motorcycle/ATV specific oil, they are formulated with a wet clutch in mind. I have been using the Klotz oil for about 16 years and have never had a gearbox problem.

Make sure the hooks on the end of the shift shaft are not to sloppy where they pivot on the shift shaft. The hooks also need to be centered over the shift star pins, if they aren't you need to adjust the eccentric pin that the spring goes over. You really need to get a shop manual so you can do this properly.

General Motors may be an American company but I am pretty sure the engine blocks in your cars were cast in Mexico. Toyota and Honda may be Japanese companies, but they have major factories in the USA and provide jobs to thousands of Americans. Believe me, I am all for keeping my money in the USA so we can keep Americans employed, but most every country builds some product either better or cheaper than other countries and that is why we have global trading.

The way the Banshee tranny is designed, it won't shift unless the gears are spinning.You can try turning the countershaft sprocket and shifting through the gears, or if the motor is in the frame, take the spark plugs out, roll the bike around and shift through the gears. Did you check the shift shaft adjustment under the clutch cover while you were in there?

What you bought will work, but when I ran that in my bike it shifted like crap. I run the Klotz Flex Drive 30, Klotz part number KL506, it shifts very smooth,and it holds up very well. All the other oils I have tried would have metal particles in it when I drained it out, but the Klotz never does. I have a Trail Tech Vector on my bike which has a hourmeter on it and I change it every 20 hours.