bansheesandrider

It could also be the O-ring that seals the seat to the carb body, you will still need to pull the carb apart. The seat assembly should be a snug fit in the carb, if you remove the retainer and turn it over and it falls out, the Q-ring is bad, once it is out inspect the O-ring for tears and wear and see if it is hard. Make sure the needle and seat are OK, clean every thing out and put it back together. Since it started doing this all at once, it is probably dirt in the needle and seat.

I highly recomend the Klotz Flex Drive 30, Klotz part number KL506. I have tried motor oil, ATF type F, Honda HP gear lube and BelRay GearSaver, and the Klotz works better than any of them. My bike shifts the best with Klotz and when I was running the motor oil and ATF, I was getting alot of metallic particles in the oil when I changed it. I did not have the Honda oil in very long(1 ride) becuase it shifted like shit, so I don't know about metallic particles with it. My bike works fine aligning the arrows, as does the wife's and most of my friends, but some guy's don't. The main thing is to make sure there is some clearance between the clutch arm, pushrod, ball and the adjuster screw on the pressure plate, so the ball doesn't weld itself to the pushrod. I line my arrows up, I run the Klotz oil and I have never welded a ball to the pushrod.

If you are running Klotz, I recomend 40:1. I have been running mine that way for about 18 years and have never had a problem because of it, the only problem I ever had was when I was running Benol, I had problems with carbon buildup in the ring lands of the wife's bike. I switched to R50 and no more problems. As was stated, stock carbs have 25 pilot jets and go up by 2.5 increments. BOTH carbs should have identical jetting on a Banshee, if you have to stagger jet then you have some other problem and are covering it up with jetting. If your pipe is full of oil, take it off and douche it out, residual oil in the pipe will make it smoke. Make sure you have good plugs in it and try swapping plug wires from side to side, if it changes you couild have a bad plug cap or wire.

Mod quad or possibly TrailTech makes a mount that will adapt them to the stock location.

I was just on the Duncan Racing website looking at Paul Turner pipes. They show one part number for Mid pipes and one part number for High Rev pipes and they should fit all years. Hell, he should be able to get them on there, I was able to get a set of cut T3s on an a arm bike, i just had to put a tiny dimple in them to clear the tie rods.The butter trick should work although I have never had to resort to that.

You need to put in replacement bars that are modified to clear the GSXR motor AND then you need to add reinforcements to the frame anywhere there could be a problem with flexing or breaking. That motor weighs twice what the Banshee motor weighs and puts out more power so the frame is under way more stress than it used to be. That is the problem with a street bike motor swap.

This is not the correct way to do this. The correct way is to push the arm with your finger in the direction the cable pulls it. When it comes up tight the two arrows should line up, if they don't you need to pull the clutch cover and adjust the screw in the center of the pressure plate so they do. After adjusting the screw then you should adjust at the handlebar for 1/16 to 1/8 inch of free play. If you have the clutch cover off, you should inspect the clutch basket. clutch hub and pressure plate for wear and grooves. Grooves on the fingers of the basket or the splines of the clutch hub can prevent the clutch plates from seperating and cause the clutch to drag. The other thing to consider is the clutch push rod and ball inside the shaft that the clutch rides on- make sure the ball has not welded itself to the shaft. You should be able to pull the ball out with a magnet if it doesn't fall out on it's own. If you can't pull it out or if it comes out stuck to the rod that is behind it you will need to replace the ball and rod and get a pancake bearing to replace the adjuster screw in the pressure plate. The pancake bearing will prevent this from happening again.

Definetly pull your carbs apart and inspect- clean them, make sure the floats are good, put a kit(with a needle and seat) in them, set the float level and you shoild be set. Make sure the choke tube between the 2 carbs is installed. Also, only take one carb apart at a time as the float bowls are different between the two carbs, and you don't want to mix them up.

For riding in the sand, the ONLY bike you should even consider is a Banshee. When it comes on the pipe and starts spraying sand, there is no better feeling in the world. Besides that, you came to a Banshee site, what did you expect to get for an answer?

From what I was told, spring rates are the only difference between a 250 and a 350 in that era of truck.

Just got back from the local Toyota deaker and I had no luck. The partsman said the only way to get the connector bodies was with a complete harness section, like the headlight harness, and the only way to get the terminals was with them already crimped on a short piece of wire to be butt connected or spliced to the harness. He said if I came up with actual part numbers he would see if he could get them, but he didn't know how to find the part number for the terminal or connector. I don't have alot of faith in this dealership so I might try a different one later, if nobody can give me the actual part numbers.

Only if you need to test your battery or the car is parked on the side of a dark road.

You might have a bad voltage regulator. With the engine running at more than 1/2 throttle, check the voltage to the lights. I don't remember the spec, but it is around 14.5 volts. If it is higher than spec you could have a bad regulator, or possibly a bad ground for the regulator.

Exactly, the first position on the switch is the parking lights and turns on lights oa all corners of the vehicle so that it can be seen when it is PARKED in the dark. The second position turns on the running lights which consist of head lights, tail lights, and marker lights. MOST MANUFACTURERS USE THE SAME LIGHT ASSEMBLIES FOR TAIL LIGHTS AND MARKER LIGHTS. It is how they are used that determines the correct name for them, and on a Banshee that has no battery and therefore only lights up with the engine running they are TAIL LIGHTS.

Its the original switch If I remember correctly, on the inside of the switch there is a metal tab that is supposed to ground to the handlebars. Make sure that it has clean bare metal and check over all the contacts in the switch for corrosion and dirt.

Yes, some clutch plates when exposed to water will have the friction material come off the steel plate that it is bonded to. Then the friction material wads up in the clutch pack and there is no room for the plates to seperate. The leak could either be the O-ring on the coolant tube the clutch cover slides over or the water pump shaft seal. There is no coolant in the "crankcase" , so it can not be a crank seal. Coolant come inti the clutch cover, goes thru the water pump, out thru the coolant tube and hose the head into the cylinders, back into the head and out to the radiator.

Why would I waste time soldering wire on to old connectors when I have the special crimpers and new terminals and connector bodies for both Weatherpack and Deutsch connectors. As I said before I figured i would use the Deutsch set up if I could not find OEM compatible stuff, my bike would need the 89 and up Toyota stuff which if you look at the connectors, they have a rubber seal where the bodies snap together, they have a lock to keep them from comming apart and each wire has a seal on it where it goes into the back of the connector. Personally, I think most of Toyota's products are pretty well made, but they are very proud of them, the farm my brother works on has 4 of them with over 200K on them and they have replaced 1 transmission that was an auto that was overloaded all the time. I am hopefully going to Toyota tomorrow to see if I can get what I need, otherwise I will be using Deutsch connectors if I build a new harness.

I have worked with factory engineers for years and if you don't say EXACTLY what you mean, they get bent out of shape. I guess that it rubbed off on me. AS I SAID IN MY PREVIOUS POST, most vehicles that have parking lights use the same lamp assembly for both the tail light and parling light and the first position on the switch is the parking lights and the second position is the headlights with tail lights.

I was going to put 4 lights on- 2 long range lights in the stock location and 2 flood type lights on a handle bar mount similar to the TrailTech mounts. That way I would have some lights to the side when I am turning and some good light far ahead for high speed runs. I still have not decided how I want to switch them- I would like to be able to have either set on with out the other set or both at the same time. If I am running all 4 lights I was a little concerned about the main power wire to the switch and if I am running a battery I figured that there was so many changes that I might as well start from scratch. If I add the battery I was going to put some LEDs on for PARKING lights.

By definition- a park light is a light that is left on when a vehicle is parked so it does not get hit in the dark. A taillight is a light that is illuminated when the vehicle is moving to locate the tail of the vehicle. Most manufactureres use the same lamp assembly for both functions, but because a stock Banshee has no battery and therefore no lights unless the engine is running, the correct name for it is a taillight. As I said before 02 and up have a taillight/brakelight combo.

Your picture looks like a stock 92 setup- it has the 94 and older connector and every thing looks factory.

No, I was thinking about a DC conversion with a battery, getting rid of extra wiring(TORS, park brake,etc.),and possibly going to heavier gauge wire for the lights. Depending on what I decide on for lights, I might change out the switches, but I think a toggle switch will stick out too much and get damaged. Also, if you are going to a different switch, I would recomend a high quality SEALED switch like from Painless Performance.

It is not a parking light, it is a tail light. If it was a parking light it would illuminate with the engine off. Since it only comes on when the engine is running it is a tail light. 87-01 Banshees have a tail light and 02 and newer have a tail/brake light combo. The brake light can be activated by eother the front or rear brake lever, however to get any lights to come on on a non-molested Banshee, the engine must be running.

The OEM water pump is plastic. You use any type of hammer on that you are asking for the pump to fail. Read the Yamaha manual. There is no mention of having to use any force as it not a press fit. Mine went in with no effort at all, just like it came out. A soft hammer is a rubber or plastic hammer. I have tapped all of mine together and have never had an impeller fail, even when I have had to reuse a stocker when making a repair. You could also use a block of wood, the key is to know what you are working on and apply force accordingly.

It is NOT NORMAL for a shaft to spin in a bearing, this leads to damage to the shaft and bearing, eventually something will fail. Almost all shafts are softer than bearing races so if the shaft is spinning in the bearing the shaft is going to wear and evfentually will start leaking or break off. Even if you can push it together by hand it should be tight enough that the bearing spins, not the shaft spinning in the bearing. It really shouldn't push together by hand, it should have to be lightly tapped together with a soft hammer.