bansheesandrider

Who's 4 mil set up is it? Without knowing that, it is hard to say. If the motor is apart, I would probably do the porting while you are in there. It is a pretty easy job to change the pipes after you get it running. Or, you can port it while it is apart and then see if you can find some better pipes while you are putting it together,so that once it is together, you only have to dial in your jetting once.

Remove the switch assembly from the bike, it unplugs. On the key side of the connector there are 4 wires, only 2 are used. You can cut the connector off the key and splice the 2 wires that are actually used together and then plug the spliced connector back into the bike, or you can cut the connector off the bike wire harness and just splice the wires together on the bike. The advantage of cutting the connector off the switch and splicing it, is the harness on the bike remains stock in case you ever need to put the key back on, in case you decide to make it street legal or whatever.

X2, Banshees should run a B8ES or BR8ES or some other variation in the 8 heat range. You need to check for spark. If you don't have spark, you need to ohm out the stator and coil per the manual EXCEPT when checking the secondary resistance in the coil you need to hook the meter leads to both plug wires and not from plug wire to ground. Also, check your pickup coil air gap- it should be .017 inches, about the thickness of a business card. While your in there make sure the flywheel is tight, the key is in good shape and look things over for damage, although if the stator is damaged, it should show up when you ohm it.You will need a flyheel puller to get the flywheel off to inspect the key and you really should have a service manual also. If all this checks OK, then see if you can find a CDI box to swap out and see if it runs.

I really hope you are not choosing your oil based on smell, you should choose an oil based on how well it protects your moving parts. That being said, I have used Klotz products for 18+ years for both my premix and tranny oil. I have had zero failures with it, I use the Flex Drive 30 in my tranny, the bike shifts great and there is no wear on the gears. I started out using Benol for premix but had problems with carbon buildup in the rings( she didn't ride it hard enough), so I switched all the bikes to R50 and have had no problems with it. Oh yeah, I like the way it smells too.

Don't know about the Oakleys, I have used the Scott 87s in one form or another since I have had glasses. I have been perfectly happy with them and my wife is also happy with hers. We ride sand only. Also, the Scott 87s use the same lens and accessories as the Scott 89 so lenses are easy to find when you need one.

Stock cap or aftermarket? If aftermarket, what brand is it?

If you are going to do more mods down the road, I would go with the T5s, it will respond to mods better.

The problem with drilling the frame is it weakens it, that is why Yamaha put some type of reinforcement or bracket at all locations where things attach to the frame.

Yes, this is probably why it won't idle. Some people that don't want to pop for the idle kit either live with it not idling, or they adjust the freeplay out of the throttle cable so it idles. Adjusting the cable is a bad deal because it can cause your idle to surge when the bars are turned or possibly a run away situation. Buy the idle kit and drill and tap your carbs. You will also need to grind or file flat the boss where the screw goes in the carb.

I have been running a Toomey clutch since about 1995, the last time I was in there, it still looked fine. I run 3 Toomey springs and 3 stock springs. I would definetly add a pancake bearing.

Are you going sand only? I think you listed every thing between Portland and Pismo.Further south there is Dumont, Buttercup, and several others. Here is a web site listing all the sand dune riding spots in the US and what you need to ride there,http://www.duneguide.com/. Click on sand dunes and then CA and OR. There are also a couple spots in Nevada if you want to come home that way. If you come home through Nevada, you could also hit Christmas Valley, it is SE of Bend,OR.

I ride sand so I can't recomend any tires. For a given tire height a 10 inch rim will give you a shorter sidewall, this will make it more stable in the corners but the ride will be a little rougher. 9 inch wheel will give you more sidewall which will smoothout the ride somewhat but will be a little twitchier in the corners. As for what wheels, it depends how much you want to spend, The stock wheels with the rolled edge are very resistant to bending, I also found since I went back to stockers that I have far fewer bead leaks. Douglas Blue Label will bend pretty easiky, so I would use at least the Red or Black Label from them,or go to their rolled edge wheel.. You can also get wheels with reinfocing ring or beadlocks from several manufacturers. There is also the HyperLite carbon fiber wheels, it all depends how much you want to spend.

EVERY person I know that runs sand runs an Oring type chain, the only guys around here that don't run O ring chain are the guys doing straight lihe drags and the MXers, again because they are trying to reduce weight and increase speed, you and your friends fit in this group. You are the only guy on here saying not to use O ring chain for all around dune use. I would say if your O rings got ate up, it was from using a lube that was not compatible with them or it was some cheap ass chain. I had an industrial chain wholesaler tell me to run non Oring chain and just replace it MORE often. I ran across one guy out in the Oregon Dunes with a snapped chain, I gave him a tow back in. When we got in I looked at his chain, it was non O ring and the pins were all almost wore through, that is why it snapped. You could flex the chain sideways into a complete circle, that was only one half of the broken chain. I used to ride with a group of about 30 quads of various makes and models, mostly Banshees, we all ran O ring chains and none af us ever had our O rings ate up from the sand nor did any of us ever expierence a broken chain. I have been riding in the dunes for 22 years, all on Banshees, and had been riding dirt bikes for 13 years before that, so I have a fair amount of expierence with chains and I am just posting what I have observed. I know that when it comes to chain, that you get what you pay for, that non O ring chain will get trashed in the sand, as will aluminum sprockets, and that the DID X ring chain is a decent chain for the money, if it is properly taken care of. If I was going to spend any more money on a chain, I would probably go to the Sidewinder Titanium setup. As for arguing, well I just don't like to see people misinformed.

I have a set of Engine Trix pipes on my 89 that I was told are actually Coffman pipes that have been cut, I don't know if that is actually what Engine Trix did to make them. My wifes bike has T3s that were cut, Iwas told 3/4 inch out of the chanber on T3s.

I run sand only and I run a DID X ring, o ring chains were designed to run in sand, mud and other crap. Try running a non O ring chain in the sand and see how long it lasts. The sand will actually get inside the rollers and eat the pins up. Non O ring chain is old school and for the racing guys that are trying to reduce friction in the drivetrain to get more speed. My DID will last for two or three seasons and will usually outlast the sprockets. I have never had the sand eat the O rings. Also, DID O ring chain is what most, if not all, Banshees came from the factory with.

I use Yamabond 4 on mine, I have never had an air or oil leak using it. Alot of guys on here use the Threebond stuff, I've never tried it. Whatever you do, DO NOT use silicone RTV, the hyrocarbons in the gas will attack it and cause problems.

As I recall, I fouled a set of plugs earlier in the day that the crank let go, so was I rich or lean?

I have yet to walk into a motorcycle shop that did not have R50 in a pint bottle. The local shop in my small town has it, every Yamaha dealer I've ever been in From the Oregon Dunes to St Anthony's dunes has it. My local shop even has it in the gallon jugs, but I can get it from Rocky Mountain cheaper, I usually add it to a large order.

I understand that bearings can let go at any time. I have been a professional mechanic for over 25 years working in the agriculture, forestry, automotive, forklift, and trucking industries and have seen plenty of bearing failures. What I am saying is what I have observed- my bike has ALWAYS been jetted for the conditions, that I ran Yamalube for 1.5 years and lost a crank bearing during this time( if there was an air leak it probably would have melted a piston, but there was no air leak) and also fouled out lots of spark plugs during the entire time I ran Yamalube. I switched to Klotz and have ran it for 18+ years in a total of 4 different bikes,including the original 89, and have not lost any crank bearings with it nor do I foul nearly as many plugs. These are the facts that I have expierenced, you can draw your own conclusion, but I don't think Yamalube is any where near as good as Klotz and I don't think Klotz costs any more because you run it at 40:1 instead of 24 or 32:1 that the yamalube runs at. I also tried the Yamalube at 32:1(properly jetted) and did not notice any difference in the plug fouling.

Most chrome shops won't touch used pipes because the carbon, soot and oil that has built up in the pipe from running the bike will contaminate their chrome tank. There was a thread on here recently about this and they did find someone that would do it. I dont know if dipping them in a hot(caustic soda) tank would clean them good enough or not. As far as flaking or peeling, you need to find someone with a good rep.

First you say I had a leak, which would mean I was lean, they you say I was fouling plugs because of my mixture, which would mean I was rich. Which one of us is spreading misinformation. The bike was jetted perfectly and it ran for 1.5 years and the bearings on the crank failed, I had been running Yamalube the entire time. I put in a new crank, seals,new pistons, had it bored and the head cut and rechambered to repair the damage from the shrapnel and put it back together. I have been riding it for the past 18 years with no problems. I have done regular tear downs for maintenance and I did put another crank in it when I completly rebuilt the bike 10 years ago. This bike is an 89 that I bought new in 10/89 and the crank let go in 3/91. The entire bike got a ground up rebuild in1999. Ever since I repaired it from the first crank in 91 I have ran Klotz, either Benol or R50 and have not had any other problems with my bike or the Blaster my wife had (premix, no injector) or the Banshee we had to sell or the Banshee she has now. All of these bikes have been jetted perfectly and mine or my wife's bikes very rarely foul a plug with the Klotz.

Uhh, has anybody thought about the crankshaft seal on the right side. It could be sucking oil out of the clutch area, causing it to smoke. Check the tranny oil to see if it is going down, remember, a little oil makes alot of smoke ,so you may have to run it awhile and continue checking the tranny oil to see if it goes down.

The owner's manual that came with my 89 when I bought it new says Yamalube at 24:1. Yamalube is junk oil, I lost a crank running Yamalube at 24:1, not counting all the plugs that I fouled out. I learned my lesson and switched to Klotz, first Benol and then I switched again to the R50, and I have never lost a crank or top end running Klotz at 40:1.

Klotz R50 at 40:1, that is 1 pint(16 oz.) eo 5 gallons of fuel.

From Yamaha, they are part number 3GG-25383-00-00. Apache Motorcyles( formerly Yamaha of AZ) sells them for about $148, they are one of the cheapest places around for factory OEM parts, there might be a couple of other dealers who are cheaper. I have tried 2 sets of aluminum hubs and tore the splines out of both, so I would stay away from those. It is going to be hard to find good used ones because the only years that used them are 89-90 Banshees, so that means they are at least twenty years old.