bansheesandrider

Spend the 400 bucks for the Yamaha part if you want a new one. Once upon a time in a land far, far away Ricky Stator was a good thing. Then they decided to cut production costs by having them made overseas, and they are nothing but a big turd ever since. Hell some of them don't even work when they are brand new. Same goes for their flywheels. Some people on here say the Moose unit is OK, but I would recomend staying with Yamaha electrical parts. I tried an aftermarket CDI box and had problems. If you can't swing a new one, look for a used one on here or Ebay.

If they don't do it with the Banshee every year it is some other outrageous quad that won't see production. I think Yamaha has enough respect for the Banshee legacy to not bring out something with the Banshee name on it.

No, I prefer my tapered bearingbillet stock type carrier with a grease zerk in it.. Plus I might want to put a skid plate on it for trail riding. I don't mind the stock chain adjusters and the setup I have now I can get all the parts to rebuild the carrier at NAPA- it uses 3/4 ton pickup wheel bearings. And I have alot more takeup for the chain with this setup than I would with a roundhouse.

Timing will affect what octane you should run. Advanced timing can lead to preignition and higher octane fuel will prevent that. Higher compression lead to detonation and higher octane will also prevent that.

Not to ruin everybody's fun, but to put this back on track, EVERY streetbike motored quad I have ever seen was fast but worthless for anything but going in a straight line on a smooth track. Adding the streetbike motor adds too much weight and just plain ruins the handling of the quad. Unless a stupid amount of money is spent on suspension, it can't be jumped or even ridden hard through whoop de doos.

I recomend DID X ring chain, it is a decent chain for what it costs if it is properly cared for. I have never had a problem with one. For your gearing with a stock swingarm it should be around 102 or 104 links long.

Just put a little grease on the o ring before you slide the clutch cover on. That way, if you need to pull your clutch cover off, you can reuse the o ring. I have never had a problem with it leaking as long as you have the correct o ring.

I run 3+3 in my Toomey setup, it depends on the springs and your hand. All 6 will be that much more stress on the cable, clutch ball, etc. when the clutch is pulled. My setup has been working fine for 15 years and there is no clutch slippage at all.

Your problem is you are running 22 inch tall ten paddles with 13/41 gearing. That will be a great setup with a 4 mil, but it is a lot fot the setup you have now. Either add 3 teeth to the rear or go to 20 inch tires with fewer paddles. You could go 1 tooth smaller in the front but that will be making the chain have to go around a sharper circle which causes it to wear faster.

These days anything from Ricky Stator is crap. It is made overseas and the quality is just not as good as it once was. Just look at the broken rivets in the flywheel pictured.

I run .028 because that is what my owners manual says the minimum gap should be. I go with the minimum because plug gap will only grow with time, unless you have a failure that hits the electrode and closes it up.

Banshee frames were NEVER yellow from the factory. The 94 and 95 bikes that were purple and yellow had silver frames just like all Banshees since 1989 except the LEs and SEs that had black frames. And I believe the 87 frame was either white or red and the 88 frame was blue.By the way, that Yamaha website shows a 96 model as an 87, because 87 looked just like that except 87 had a red seat and the previously mentioned frame color.

Have you looked at your chain and sprockets?Is your chain loose? It could be your chain jumping teeth on the sprockets, especially if the sprockets are shot. Being jetted rich should not cause it to knock. If you haven't cut your head or installed a coolhead with domes smaller than 23cc, you should be fine with 93 octane. But you could get a couple of gallons of 108 or 110 octane and mix it with premium pump gas and see if it makes a difference just to rule out octane.

There is a place called JustATV.com that carries OEM wire harness plugs for ATVs. But you will have to try to match it up to there crappy pictures on the website. They never responded to my email when I tried to confirm which plug I needed. Also, the connectors are supposed to be the same on a late 80s or early 90s Toyota pickup and Forerunner, but when I tried to order them from Toyota they said they were unavailable. Good luck.

See what I said in the fifth post in this thread.

Remember the secondary resistance is very high and you need to have your meter set on the proper scale.

Both owners manuals that came with the 89 and the 96 Banshees that I bought new say to remove the dipstick, wipe it off, set it on top of the threads and then take it out and read the level.

The Cascade ones help support the fenders, but I have ran two sets of them and both sets have cracked and broken off from the vibration, not from crash damage. One thing you can do to help with is remove your seat anput something(a block of wood) on the frame where the back of the seat would be and then run a bungee cord over it from one fender to the other one so it is pulling up on the fenders while the bike is in storage. Some guys will say to just cut the back fenders off, but I like having rear fenders.

You can run it with the 34, but you are not going to have a whole lot of top end. I used to ride with a guy that had a 250R 3 wheeler before he bought a Banshee, and he had a 39mm carb on his 250R. It was a screaming trike. With the 34 you will have good bottom end and it will probably be easy to tune and if you are going to do it, you better have a low end pipe setup.

Sea level is the reference point and there is more oxygen in the air there. As you go up in elevation, no matter how little the oxygen starts thinning out, so jetting adjustments need to be made. As far as dome size, the size of the combustion chamber, or dome, affects the compression RATIO, which determines how hard the air/fuel mixture is squeezed. The harder it is squeezed the more volatile it is, within the limits of the fuel. The more volatile the mixture is, the more power you get AND the more likely it is to ignite from preignition. To resist preignition, you need higher octane fuel. That, in basic terms is the reason you can not run pump gas with 18cc domes. The higher your compression is, you make more power at low RPMs, but it is harder for the bike to turn high RPM. The lower the compression, the less power it will have down low, but it will rev easier and higher. That is why an engine that needs a top end will run like a raped ape once it is on the pipe. Yamaha decided on 24cc because that is what they felt was the right size for a stco bike to run on 93 octane and give them the power characteristics they wanted with their pipes, carbs, and porting. We started changing dome size becuase we changed all the other stuff and/or are willing to run race fuel.

Make sure the shift shaft is properly adjusted- the claw should be centered over the pins on the shift star when it is in gear, not neutral. If that is OK, try turning the star by hand, you will probably have to turn the wheels as Banshees don't like to go through the gears unless the tranny is turning. If it won't engage gears then, it is probably a bent shift fork.

16 volts on the plug wire seems weak. Make sure the frame tabs where the coil bolts on have bare metal, it is a ground for the coil. Get a manual so you know how to ohm out the stator, coil,etc. Some manuals say to check the secondary coil resistance by connecting to the plug wire and the ground terminal, on a Banshee coil this is wrong, you need to connect one lead from the meter to each plug wire to check secondary resistance on a Banshee coil. If all the resistances check out and the harness is OK, then you should borrow a CDI box from a buddy and see if that makes a difference. Also, check the pickup coil gap on the stator- it should be .017 inches, about the thicness of a business card or matchbook, between the pickup coil and the bumps on the flywheel, check it at both bumps. One other thing it coild be is the magnets in the flywheel. Hope this helps.

Has anybody ran a square tube stock style swingarm from Metal Tech? Had any problems with it? For my own reasons,I want to stay with a stock style swingarm so please don't tell me to get a roundhouse.Thanx for your input.

It sounds to me like your problem was the carbs were leaking fuel into the cylinders when the bike was not running. It could be a bad float needle/seat, the o ring on the outside of the seat that seals the seat to the carb body could be bad, or the float level could be too high.I don't know what to tell you about putting it back together- if you are flush, you could get it bored and even ported, depending on what other mods you have, while it is apart. If money is tight you could just buy gaskets and put it back together, but I would at least run a glazebreaker through the cylinders and put new rings in it. I also woulnd not port it if you at don't at least have pipes, and you should have a cut head and possibly reeds. AND DEFINETLY CLEAN AND REPAIR YOUR CARBS.

The erar sprocket actually changed between 88 and 89. 87 and 88 had 4 bolt sprockets and 89 and newer came with a 6 bolt sprocket.