bansheesandrider

I have always used Yamabond #4 on my cases.

Since on that particular truck/tranny combo the tranmission top actually sticks up through the floorboards of the cab and the shift lever comes right out of the middle of the top with no external linkage, I think the problem is inside the tranny. My guess would be that either it has a loose bearing and is letting a shaft move around, or there is to much clearance between the shaft and the gear and/or the synchronizer.

My D arms from lonestar use the OEM Yamaha ball joints from a 1987 Yamaha Warrior. You can get them from any Yamaha dealer or from RideNow Powersports, or CheapCyclParts.com. or Apache Motorcycles, or probably BikeBandit.

X2 on this. Also if possible do a compression check. Your 2 problems could be related, you might be slightly rich.If the motor is warm there is no need for the choke and using it is putting too much fuel in the engine , flooding it and causing it to die.

X5 on the orange. Here in Oregon it just has to be red or orange, it can have any writing on it.

Take a base gasket and cut it out to match the porting on the bottom of the cylinders. Then flip it over and and trace the cut out onto the cases. Then grind the cases out to your lines and they are port matched.

After trying 10W30 motor oil, ATF Type F, BelRay GearSaver, and Hondaline tranny oil, I have settled on the Klotz Flex Drive 30, part number KL506. I have been using it for the past 17+ years in a total of 3 different Banshees and 2 different Blasters between me, my wife and the kid. When I ran the motor oil and ATF, the bike shifted very poorly and there were metallic particles in the oil when I drained it. I even split the cases for an inspection but could not find anything wrong, put it back together and there was still particles in the oil at the next change. I then tried the BelRay and it shifted a little better and the particles decreased to almost nothing. When my dealer was out of BelRay, he recomended the Hondaline oil so I tried it. The bike shifted like shit, I ended a day trip early and came home and drainede it out immediately. I then tried the Klotz on a different shop's recomendation. The thing shifts awesome and there has never been any metal in the oil when I drain it. I have never had a gear or bearing fail when running this oil, except for a snap ring coming off the kick idler gear once. I have never had a clutch ball weld in any of the bikes and I don't have a pancake bearing in any of them. My clutch is holding up very well and everything in the tranny looked like new the last time I was in there. The downfall to the Klotz is the price and availablity. I am now ordering it from Rocky Mt and I just add a few bottles to my order whenever I order from them. I have an hourmeter on my bike and I change it every 20 hours of ride time.

Cummins is the best MOTOR by far, but why put a motor that will go over 300K miles in a truck that is wore out at 100K miles? Everybody I know that has a Duramax is having all kinds of injector and head gasket problems. They Ford 6.0s are not a very good engine and the 6.4s get shitty fuel mileage. The 7.3 Powerstrokes are awesome engines and I think the Fords are the best all around package, but to get a 7.3 you are going to have to buy a truck that is 7+ years old. My buddy has an 06 Dodge SLT and it feels cheap inside, it has most of the bells and whistles inside, but the look and feel is cheesy. GM does have the best interiorand ride. Figure out what is the most important thing in a truck to you and buy accordingly.

When Yamaha line bores the holes for the bearings, the parting line is not always perfectly in the center of the hole. If you mix a top that was offset to the top with a bottom that was offset to the bottom they wont go together. If you use a top that was offset to the bottom with a bottom that was offset to the top then the bearings will be loose in the bores. Granted, we are talking about ten thousandths of an inch but it does matter. Any good mechanic knows that you need to keep bearing caps in their original machine location or you COULD have problems, whether it is main bearings, differential bearings or overhead cam bearings.

That would probably be second gear like I said. When you are in second that gear is locked to the shaft and the tranny will spin, when you are in any other gear that gear needs to spin on the shaft. Your clutch is burnt up from trying to spin the transmission when it was locked up. Also, just out of curiousity, what kind of oil were you using in the transmission?

Are you sure it is coming from the top end? Put a screwdriver against the motor in different places and put your ear to the screwdriver. Where the noise is the loudest is the problem spot. If it ends up coming from the clutch cover, check your kick idler gear and for any damage from the snapring coming off, ie damaged teeth on the primary drive gears. Also, I had a customer that had a click in his Banshee, it was a main bearing on the crank that had cracked the outer race from the snap ring going through the gears. You could not see it until we had the motor apart.

To fix it correctly you will have to split the cases. Which side did it come out? If it came out the left side, there should also be a plug in the hole. Also now that I think about it there should be an E clip on the shaft inside the cases to keep it from coming out. You had better open up your cases and find out what is going on in there.

I can't tell from the picture, have you taken the piston off the rod and looked at the wrist pin bearings? I have had new bearings where the some of the needles were not properly inserted in the cage when being manufactured and it could have fallen into the cases during assembly.It is not a big deal if you catch it before assembling the topend, just push the needles into the cage properly. If you don't catch it then you can see the results. If you did the previous rebuild because of a crank failure, then it could have been hiding in your pipes. I always flush out my pipes with solvent when doing a rebuild after a catastrophic failure.

Yamaha did the final machining on the cases as a set. All the bearing bores for the crank and transmission shafts are machined to final dimension with the cases bolted together. That is why Yamaha only sells Banshee cases as a set. Some guys say they can be mix and matched, but I think that will lead to other problems down the road.

You can use a 97 up box by taking the plug off your 95-96 box and puting it on the later box, just match the wire colors up. I would recomend NOT cutting the wires, but take the terminals out of the plastic connectors and swapping the connectors. You will end up with a green/yellow wire left over on the late model box, it is the park brake rev limiter wire. Just tape it up good so it can't short to ground and you will be good to go.

Except for when it comes to electrical parts, OEM is the best there. The only aftermarket CDI boxes worth a damn are from DYNA or MSD and the MSD unit uses a battery. You can buy an OEM for about the same money as either of those.

It sounds to me lioke you screwed up second gear, possibly welded it to the shaft. Follow Savage's advice as you will have to do all that anyway to get to the tranny, but I think you will be splitting the cases.

Is it a carrier that was meant for a 40mm drag axle?

The best and least expensive places that I have found for OEM parts are RideNow Powersports, CheapCycleParts.com, and Apache Motrocycles.

The float height could be off, you could need new needle and seats, or the O ring on the outside of the seat could be bad and letting it leak around the outside of the seat. The seat should be a tight fit into the carb body. If the seat falls out of the carb after the retainer screw is removed, or if there is no resistance when you put the seat in the carb body, the O ring is bad. Unfortunately you can not buy the O ring seperately so when mine did this, I used some O rings out of a universal O ring kit. It worked for awhile but I eventually had to just buy new needle and seat assemblies.

After the stem goes through the bearing, the first thing that gets put on the bottom is a spacer that the seal rides on, then the nut and washer. Did you get this spacer in there? It is common for it to stay in the seal when you remove the stem , then it falls out and you never know it was there. If it is not in there the stem moves up and down about 1/2 inch.

Yes, the MSD box is good also, just like most MSD stuff. But you have to use the battery or add the extra wiring to run it so it is not plug and play.

When it comes to chain and sprockets, you get what you pay for. That $29 chain will probably last one ride. As for aluminum sprockets, I used to run one because that is what all the fast guys used. But I got tired of buying a sprocket everytime I turned around. I now run a iron sprocket front and rear, usually from Sunstar and I always use a X ring chain from DID as they seem to hold up the best for the money. There are more expensive chains out there such as Regina, but I don't know if they last longer. There is also the titanium set from Sidewinder that is supposed to be indestructable but it is very expensive also.

If you are going to continue running that Ricky Stator, I would recomend getting a spare stator to carry with you. Sooner than later it will fail and you will be stranded and/or lose out on a riding trip. Just search Ricky Stator on here and you should find all kinds of reasons to ditch it.

You can't weld it on the inside, it won't clear the impeller. If you want to add thickness to the cover you will have to add it to the outside of the cover.