Queppa

I have the forged wsm with the mosfet coating. went from stock to them. as they are lighter than stock, the engine is snappier and revs quicker when the throttle is blipped. quality of them was very good, and all parts came with the kit as you said. i haven't used wiseco but they have a very good name so i would say you can't go wrong there either. i got the wsm's as they came with everything and ended up much cheaper than getting oem rings from yamaha. and that even included shipping the wsms from america to australia. i've only done about 6 hours on the bike since the wsm's went in but no troubles yet and was quite impressed with the quality of them. To possibly answer your next question, i got the stock size too. as it was the bikes first rebuild with over 50 hours use on the clock. so just honed and put in the forged ones. if its a new engine or just been done recently or not done many hours since it was last done, get the clearence for the pistons checked so they don't stick when they heat up. And make sure you let the bike warm up properly first before thrashing with any forged piston, as they take longer to expand and warm up than cast pistons. starting the bike straight up and hammering it will make the bike not last very long at all and you'l be rebuilding again in no time. i'd say either brand should be fine. it really comes down to how you treat the bike. good oil and let it warm, and you'l never have a problem with either piston.

Hi Everyone and thankyou all very very much for all the feedback. Sorry this is now an old thread, but I've been really busy and thinking about the bike so as to not have to do too much work on it. lol. Anyway, found the problem. AKheathen was corrrect. Carbs dirty. I'll explain. after giving up with looking at it, I left it for a few weeks then started it one day. (generally start it every 2 weeks and let it run for about 30 mins). Though when the choke was turned off, 1 cylinder kept going out and then the bike would start to want to stall. Blipping the throttle brought it back to running again, but then it wanted to die after a little bit when i took the choke off. So left it for another week or so, and then yesterday decided to start it again and look into it a little further. Same thing happened again with the choke. Started thinking and thought, 'maybe the idle jets clogged'. Pulled the carbi off, checked the idle jet and it was half clogged. There was also a very very tiny bit of like coagulatd oil or whatever in the bottom of that carbi. (probs from when the bike sat in one spot for 18 months without being run). So cleaned that jet, and the hole size doubled. then checked the main and it was pretty good. so cleaned it anyway, put the carbi back on and sweet as. So what was happening when the bike was running is as follows. (this is how I imagine everything happened anyway). When the problem very first started was just after i flicked the bike out. It was a quick flick and backoff during flick as it went a bit overboard. At this point I'm guessing the bit of crap went into the idle jet. The bike then stopped after this because without throttle, that side ran lean, causing the other side to run leaner because of the crossover pipe from the read valve. When I was riding the bike at high revs and speed the main jets were being used. so all was good. When I'd backoff at high revs, while i was slowing down, (throttle backed off and idle jets doing the work), one side would very quickly lean out and then lean the other side out, so then I'd go back on the throttle, and nothing. After a few blips, (opening the mains) the fuel would be back and the bike would start running until I backed off for a bit. This was why it was so inconsistent at times. (well it was very consistent after a thrash down the straight then hard on the brakes) as when I backed off the throttle for more than a second or two with high enough revs, it would lean out and cut out quickly. But because it was only one idle jet, and wasn't fully clogged, if I only backed off for a little bit, and the bike wasn't revving too much, it wouldn't lean out enough to cut out. As I also noticed with the choke trick, that after the choke was turned off, it took about 10 secs for 1 cylinder to cut out. So yep after cleaning that carbi, all was good. I then cleaned the other carbi too, and it didn't have the coagulation like the first one, but the idle jet didn't seem the cleanest either. So all is working sweet now, starts a little easier, doesn't have the problem, tors is all connected and working, and throttle response is better now that the jets have been cleaned. Once again Id like to thankyou all for your help. I now know of a few more things to check for when this sort of problem happens. And am happy now that I know how the whole tors system works too. Good to know. Hopefully this thread may help others having a similar problem. Thankyou

Lol. Sounds rich hugh. The manual says Yamalube 24:1, or if using a mineral type oil (pretty sure it said mineral or something) then run at 20:1 I remember reading it at the time when I got it and figured meh, anything other than yamalube 20:1. sorted. Never missed a beat untill now. Yes tors is still on there. Man you guys really hate those tors hey. The bike is stock. As in, Oil changed once, never rebuilt. changed sprokets and chain to gear out. and thats it. Clean filter every few rides, put fuel in it and ride it. Cheers

Hi, Yeah I'll definately do all that. I've checked the cap, but not the filter in the tank. Will check that. The plugs (in their defence) are two years old. Were a little oily and had some slight carbon deposits near the side of the tab near the thread. But the ignition bit was good. I expect them to be fairly dirty though as I run my fuel at 20:1 I won't go into details too much but yes. 20:1 since day one. Thanks

cheers mate. Yeah sure. I'm in australia. you can still get new banshees here from yamaha. 2010, 2011 etc. Not sure if the posties here can swim overseas with a banshee on their bikes though.

*whacks head really hard* Just noticed your mods at the bottom of your post. Yes I feel stupid, lol

hahaha. no worries.

Hi mate, Cheap mods for the banshee don't really happen hey. If you wan't mods i'm guessing you want it faster. I just changed the sprockets and chain on mine to gear it out further and give a bigger top speed. went three tewth bigger at the front, and one tooth smaller on the rear. bike struggles a litle to make it to band in 6th but if you change quick from 5th at high revs you can still get there easily. good for cruising too. Otherwise if your on a budget, get a toomey t6 kit. As the kit comes with everything you need for a stock bike. Theres no guessing with jetting either. it comes with pipes, jets, filter and box vents. Everythings made to work together, its relatively easy to do, will give you a very noticable gain, and for the money and simplicity, it what I'd do if you want more power but aren't trying to win races. The sprockets and chain are around 200 Racing chains with o-rings are dear Toomey kit depends on toomey and where you are on the globe. bout 700 to 1000 here in aus. Cheers.

Hi All, I've got a 2008 banshee. All stock. Had it since new, and never had any problems. The other day was riding around as normal just cruising through the bush. Then gave it a little blip round a corner. (like really little, just enough to flick it out) and then it just died till I rolled to a stop. While it was dead, I was hitting the throttle back and forth to try and get it going before I rolled to a stop, and each time i'd flatten the throttle, There was no spark at all. The note of the exhaust changed like it was getting fuel but there was no fire. Sort of annoyed at this I sat there and thought for a bit, then kicked it gently and it started going. (kicked the kick starter lol) Revved all good too. So continued on. Bout 30 secs or so later just after hitting the throttle through a gear or two, braked to slow down a bit then nothing again. This time as the bike was slowing down I started tapping the throttle just little bits and as I got slower I'd get a spark and it was off again. I just so happened to have 2 new plugs on hand and put them in. No difference. BUT In the time that it took to put them in and the bike cooled a bit, I got almost a full lap before it did it again. ( a laps about 6 corners, ditched the track at this point) I then started to get real pissed and figured well it dies when I back off so I just won't do that. Did this and got a full lap or so until I started getting worn out, and backed off, and it died untill I started rolling really slow tapping the throttle until it went again. Interesting thing was that I could flatten it for a gear or so then backoff and it would do it. Or I could flatten it along the straight making it through all the gears, no troubles at all, but as soon as i'd back off at the end, it'd die. It didn't die EVERY time i'd backoff though. but if it was a good squirt, it would always die after that. Also after the runs, when I got it back sitting there idle, i could blip it a little, a little again, then the next, dead. Kick it, blip blip blip dead. kick it, blip, dead. got home, checked the fuel cap and hose to see it was getting air, on the left carb where the boot from the engine connects to the carb, there was a very tiny bit of wetness where some fuel had come out. so tightened that up. Was thinking that it may be the coil because its like when the bike gets warm and it gets hit with a spark workout, it then stops working till it comes good again. But figured if that was stuffed it wouldn't go at all rather than change to intermittent? The following day I started it up, let it get warm, and sat there revving it slightly while it was warm, and it seemed fine. (but couldn't really take it for a ride anywhere though) I searched through the forums and am leaning towards coil or maybe stator. The bikes got about 50 hours use on it, gets the filter cleaned every few rides, gets washed, has never been rebuilt or anything, and is on its second set of plugs since new. (tried new ones though). Nothings ever really been pulled apart like the carbies or anything. Always used 98 fuel, always used motul 800, and always let the bike warm up for about 30 mins before it moves anywhere. Starts first or second kick all the time when its cold, and first go when its warm Sorry for the novel. I always prefer too much than not enough.