TurboBanshee420

Yes....kinda. I finished the rest. I made another wire harness with all new shit. new fuse block and all cleaned up. I had it sitting all spring here in the new house. I had a really hard time trying to tune it while in the garage. (too hard to ride and use a laptop) I cannot get any dyno time at my brothers shop because he moved and had to tranplant the dyno (which is still not functional until the new dyno shop is done.) So i took all the shit off nice nice and put it all in a container until i can get some help tuning. I have 6 other projects going right now...scarab restoration, house remodeling, customer bikes, building parents new house, etc.... all that plus 10 hr days 6 days a week at work and a crazy 3 yr old who wants to hang with dad. Sounds fun huh? I'll have time after this winter. I'm not too worried about it right now. It'll be there in the basement when I'm ready to do it again. I have some banshee problems lately with the lockout eating itself for no reason....so I got pissed because I have nothing to ride and ordered a 421 cub cylinder and all new parts for a fresh rebuild and bottom end. Guess i'll just join the masses for now and stick with what works until I get fiesty again for more power. I'll let my followers know when the time is right. :cool: Technology is starting to catch up.... Thanks for the interest guys. It was a crazy project with a 50/50 chance of success. I feel I won, yet didn't get to reap the benefits yet. We will have to see what unfolds once I get my other 2 bikes running so i'm not stranded at the house when the boys go out. A&S does have a working system, but I don't buy other peoples hard work.... I do my own. Plus mine is way more advanced then just a set of carbs and a turbo. That was the whole point bro! To do what hasn't been done. I'm sure you haters will have something to say about that...but your entitled to your opinions I guess. except most of you haven't tryed anything in this rhelm before sooo...bite me ...lol

need some rear hubs...pm me

need rear hubs....dibs

Best oil I've ever used This can be found around the net, but I get it from a well known pro-MX rider know owns a shop around here.....$20/gal mixes at any temp and smells Awesome...... also after 2 years in a PV motor I tore it down and found almost no coking on the PV blade....RARE!!! ACJRACING <--- ebay store...... cases of it for around $95

ductape

an opposed piston 2 stroke has such high compression that it burns ALL of the charge..... photo-detenation. No emissions..... I don't think too many people have ever seen this type of engine, yet it is a clean burning 2 stroke. until we murder all the oil big wigs.... we will never see the new engines of the 21st century to me, this is a step in the right direction....a baby step..... I'm looking for that "giant leap for mankind" +1 yet again for rotax!!!!

i have one.... I sold my 2-1 intake too........... so it's up for grabs $40 shipped [email protected]

just ride the ass out of it and tear it down in the fall for a clean and rebuild. Most of these guys ride sand or sandish dirt. Here in NY we have 2 kinds of riding.... dirty and filthy. Nothing is safe if you ride it the way it should be ridden. Don't be one of those pre-madonna's that spend 4 hours cleaning your bike before you go out riding, just to "look" good. I roost mud puddles on those fags remember it's an ATV, not a hotrod. spend that time saving up for something you can ride on the road if you want it to stay clean.

Hey folks.... Got a chance to pick up an RZ topend with all brand new in the yamaha package PV parts. Also comes with the servo and cables. They need a bore and port matching. One looks like someone tried to start to port it. I would finish it up anyways to my own specs. U think they are worth $350???? Who else has paid what to get an RZ topend? sure would go nice with my current set-up.....

yeah RS quality is in the toilet. seems like they have a bunch of children doing their stator winding these days

I was just wondering if anyone had a burned up RS stator kicking around? I need a stator body for a new project. If at all possible I'm looking for one that has a good ignition side with a burned up lighting side. Even a "electrix" stator would be a good one. please let me know. I would be willing to work out something.... such as rewind an HO stator for you big lights guys in exchange pushing around 480-500 watts out of my 18 pole efi stator I made...... could get around 300w out of a 12 pole body with ign side still intact. no biggie if noone wants to give one up :cool:

garrett GT17-42 internally wastegated ...3 bolt flange.....it will be a while before I get to work on it more. Once again time for all my other projects; yz85 build-up for the kid snowmobile strip and rebuild for this season gutting the scarab for the new engine and interior (hopefully paint in the spring) gasgas rebuild.... engine and new frame/a-arms new deck on the front of the house, just got the permits kitchen floor wood stove in basement, hopefully before the snow comes got some things to keep me busy.... I'm sure u all know how this feels Thanx for the interest!!! I wish I had more to tell you. but for now it's all layed out on the basement floor on a large piece of cardboard.

this thread again.... lol update: New wire harness w/ "painless wiring" fuse block. No more crazy wiring web! New CBR600RR REG/RECT installed New battery box. Used to mount reg/rect and fuse block. Looking for a smaller intercooler core to fabricate new intercooler. (make more room for access to plugs) Spark table tuned in. Megasquirt bugs worked out. Wideband 02 removed. EGT sensor to be interfaced to megasquirt via x-tra input (IAC) Note: Turbo system has been removed for various reasons. 1st of all, so that I can hand down some ass whoopin' to my dusty bike. 2nd so that I may clear up some issues I was dreading doing while it was on the bike. (stator, Ign/crank sensor waveform - output etc...) 3rd It's not easy to tune a moving quad while driving with a laptop on the handlebars. My only accessable chassis dyno is currently above ground in the backyard of my brother new home. I have no choice but to wait until next spring to get back into tuning the fuel map, startup enrichments, accel enrichments, etc... Lots there to go through. It's impossible to do it all one at a time because one thing affects another. It has to be done a little here, a little there, then over and over until it's right. EFI is the only reason that makes this possible! It MUST be done right to achieve a ridable, reliable machine. Time will tell if it will works as nicely as it does on a car. (ex: subaru) Building the system is only half the battle. Many battles are fought in a war... and this IS war! Some parts of me think that I should have talken the easy road and done this to a raptor 700r. I would have had something like that running in a few weeks, since it's already efi and has all sensors and equipment there as well as being 4 stroke. Which has much more control over the air moving through. But where is the challenge in that? :biggrin:

for the most part... the 2 main kill switches on the banshee are normally open.... closed, it takes the spark voltage and drops it to the frame (grounded) i.e. turn the key off and it grounds the hot side of the ign. maybe this will help you understand what u need to do. loco... prob a Prodesign

depends if it's a normall open or normally closed switch. If u hook it up to the wrong area it could possibly work backwards.... only runs when it's pulled off. u don't want that. Test it with a meter first

put the nut back onto the head about 3-4 threads and cut behind it with a hacksaw. be careful not to cut the frame obviously. sawzall works too but be weary of what ELSE your cutting besides the bolt Then it will be easier to punch out with the proper punch and hammer method. bigger target will allow use of a bigger hammer. 24oz is your best bet

Check these baddasses out!!!! about 50watts to run each..... HID 4" offroad lights 3900 lumens!!!! Internal ballast and transformer I will be buying a set of these and dropping some 5watt LED MR16 bulbs into my lazerstars as a "low beam" PS... buy a 200w stator if u want nice lights. Just have to scrap those stockers for something bright. I can see for about 1/4 mile with just 1-100watt MR16 halogen 15 degree beam. But they run stupid hot. The only way to make daylight is HID

Are the T-6's turd.... or just no good for modded shee's? I've been looking into pipes on ebay. Lots of good deals. Even saw a set of paul turners in mint shape go for 350. t-5's for 200 and fmf's for about 250. I love to change it up every chance I get.

35pwk if u plan on getting rid of the stock pipes for something else.

ur right guys.... I need my ear-tach calibrated i guess, but i think thats hardly what this is about now with him. I invite anyone to listen to what this pipe sounds like and guess the true rpm at any given spot. It's all good. I know how this pipe rides with several different intake set-ups and with every combo, there has been a nice kick at the top. Maybe for whatever reason it likes to rev. i can tell u that way up over the "main" powerband it has another little push before it's done. And from all the hours riding the shearers, it sounds a bit higher on the needle. i can say that with the same gears it pushes 6th a bit higher and 5th is probably my fastest gear because of the stretch.(tires/gearing too high for this power level) Those shearers are supposed to be topend pipes.... They didn't push so high for me. I guess u have to have a cub like daj to get a strong pull from 7-10k.... or some nasty porting, which i don't have. Jeff.... lay off me or be tormented Daj... thanx for keepin it civil rzman.... that is soooooooo fucking nasty bro....EEEwwwwwww mjv420... trashpile.... agreed!!! thats what i get for asking for some help. I guess I'm supposed to be some mad scientist who can't be wrong. Who ever said these things run the bowls dry..... yeah just found that shit out 20 minutes ago. GAY!!! Any one have a trick for that? Or should I buy a pingel dual petcock...? Drill out the inlet? I already have taken a dremel to the "bell" around the mainjet base because the overflow tube was making it impossible to get the bowl back on without stressing the floats and possibly in-volentarily bending the float tabs. Any other OKO gurus have a trick? everyone kosher now? Should I offer a fucking refund...lol

ok now ur really going out of your way. if u had some love notes it must have been ur boyfriend... not me. Thanx but no thanx.... I eat pussy. I want nothing to do with ur KY encrusted asshole. u sure do like love notes from guys though huh..... brought it up enough times no sence in wasting money on jets.... is there? Or is this forum only for people like u to talk shit? I thought it was for help when needed, or helping others. This has been real fun jeffy-poo but I'm sure your boyfriend doesn't like me bashing u. So c-ya around the web

yeah about a year ago, last time u fucked with me. And I'm just as right now as I was then. Ur gay!.... oh yeah and your gurl looks prime for some deep throat. :shoothead: BTW u had your myspace addy in your sig retard. L8r

well does that include calling me and idiot and telling me (someone u don't know) that I have no idea what I'm talking about? U talk to strangers on the street that way? If you could keep your comments to yourself then u wouldn't piss anyone off. Seems like you went out of your way on this one, snot. Every search I did to find help on jetting came up....0 results, or no one actually has an answer. Seems like when people posted up a question, they get a bunch of questions as an answer. Only 2 threads had #'s posted for 28mm jetting and they were "before" #'s. That is why I posted my final results.... not to get bashed over trivial info which was expressed as an observance. Hence "It's feels like"...."It sounds like"... ect. If I had posted up what I said as a fact and claimed to have evidence I could accept your onslaught as a rebuttle, But hardly without such as a name or finger pointed at you first. Like I said.... if you want to knitpick my posts, go ahead. Have fun. Seems like so far you've only wasted peoples time reading the last 15 or so posts. Tell your buddy at dynoport that I said hi and I love this pipe. Your welcome to come out and ride my bike for yourself dipshit

I wish u lived closer to me.... so I could slap ur skrony ass all up and down this mother fucker. Take ur opinion and shove it up ur ass faggot. U like taking the littlest shit and making a big fucking deal out of it.... like it actually matters. So far u have nothing to disprove what I said my bike felt like. And since those shitty dyno runs have nothing to do with my bike or even this topic since we don't know what pipe was even on the bike at the time of your run. I'd have to say that u make yourself look like an idiot just making this into more than a 5 second discussion. I could give a fuck about u or your gay graph. I'm done listening to your diarheia filled opinion I'd have to say ur the most synical, most full of himself, fucking keyboard queer on this forum. As much as I don't like some people here. U take the blue ribbon for biggest thread bashing ass packer. If u don't have anything nice to say then don't say it. Before someone googles ur ass and sends a letter-bomb to your house. Is every polock a dumb fuck... cause every one I know is. +1 Do u have a big nose too?

are u on ur period....? Well I'm sure your very proud of your dyno sheets. I'm just simply telling you what it feels like. If you want to take my word as the holy grail instead of just an observance.... go right ahead, because I'm sure I could care less. sry jeff but thats about all the lip I can take from u dude.... I was being nice I CAN tell u that it's not even something I spent more than a few minutes thinking about. But if you would like me to strap on a tach and breakout the helmet cam, I could so u can see what I mean. ....no, i do not have the turbo system on my bike right now. I wanted to ride this fall N/A and I have to get a smaller intercooler. At least it only takes a half hour to take off. PS... I must be a real dummy but to me and probably the rest of the world... it looks like u stopped the run right in the middle of the peak band. If I were running something on the dyno I would do it the right way and take it to the redline and see where the HP drops past 10% of the peak. I've seen plenty of dyno graphs that have more than one peak along the rpm range.