TurboBanshee420

TRY THESE!!!! If only they were in production....

They do have a turbo setup.... but your going to pay! And your probably not going to learn anything besides when and when not to open your wallet.

You must be bored.... and rich....

stock gears are fine... you down down and you'll be shifting more than you want to.

14.5"

check wires and grounds first.... usually never the ign. coil. they are pretty hard to burn up with a CDI system.

I have a set sitting on my bench that I though blakshee wanted but you can have them if you want. lemme know if you want them. They were only on my bike for a year.

man those gloves would be ok for 40*-50* but that's about it. I had a set of fox neoprene cold weather gloves. I'd have been better with a set f $3 wal-mart jobbies. It's probably a good idea to get an idea of what temps you'd be riding in before you freeze your ass off. Simple gloves won't cut it of 32* riding. You need snowmobile gloves, unless your doing some serious shit that makes you break a sweat. I went up to tughill, NY snowmobiling this past weekend and it was about 10*.... I was sweating my ass off because of the 4-5 foot mogels. If it was smooth and 10 million people weren't there it would have been cold from the 50-95 mph riding. even with the grip heaters! But I got a workout instead... so I might have been good with some summer gloves. depends on your riding cond. and the temp. I guess..... :happy:

I have a nice pair of HJC's that I use for snowmobiling and quads (when there isn't more than a few inches)..... They work great and have wrist cuffs w/sinch to keep the powder out. I've been out for hours at below 0* and I could still "pull the clutch in" After a while I realized how nice handgaurds are and got a set. (acerbis rally pro) Not only for the cold but to keep my fingers from being broken when you...say...slide into a tree sideways going up a wet grassy hill and turn your pinky into mush. :mad: yup now I have a worthless finger that doesn't really move. Been saved a few times since too! :thumbsup:

Yeah I went the cheap way and didn'tbore it once and I had REAL troubless then when my "new" pistons broke both the skirts off from all the skirt slap.... buy a nice set of wiseco pistons the next size up from what you have and THEN take them to a shop with your cylinders and have them matched to the piston sizes. (<---the right way to do it) because every piston is a different size no matter what the box says!!! The guy I use here is $40 a hole for a bore. Since he has all the right equip. then he's the guy to see. I know there are reputable shops all over the country.... find one keep the ring gap around .022-.028mm.... loose is safe...these motors have a bad hot spots around the edges of the exhaust port. No need in siezing it for no reason

OMG!!!! Good god man!

I have 428 in each rear...22" kenda klaw XC.... They HOOK!!! Fronts....78 each tire... holeshot XCR.... thinking about 30 more in each. If you have a lot of time to do it.... I made a mark on my driver and lined that mark up to the slot in the cold-kutters, this way I could index each screw for maximum grip.... I.E. the ones on the outside of the tire I turned so they would hook in the turns. The ones in the center for straight line traction. works great You get it....

Your swimming in detonation country man..... even for a 2 stroke. I bet that thing is ping'n like a vegas slot machine, just might not be able to hear it over the pipe noise. If you want to increase the timing, you should be looking at a CDI box with diff curves. Increasing the static timing of the banshee doesn't really do much for your top-end. I found this out while I was pirating ignition curves for the megasquirt map. BTW.... THANX RZBANSHEEMAN!!!! (for the ign. map)

Right... mostly from the sharp edges of the plates scrubbing off shavings everytime the pushrod pushes the pressure plate out. if not then I'd be very worried!!! As far as the longevity of ATF... I'd say maybe half of what oil has to offer. But remember that oil does not like gears. Because it breaks the molecule chains apart that give oil it's viscous strength. The elastic nature of those chains is what makes oil what it is. That being said... ATF isn't the same. it is thinner yes, but it's made for super high pressure(300-400psi), high heat/friction wear for extended times. This is why you change oil every 3000miles and ATF every 100k miles. Even though transmissions don't run the same temps an engine does, that only makes it more suitable for a gearbox like yours. in all fairness though both fluids get run though a gear-rotor style pump the entire time they are in motion, but the oil gets a 40-80psi boost...... ATF gets a 300-400psi shot. This has revelence because that is what is happening as it gets meshed through your gears at high speed. Also ATF is formulated for clutch packs. Oil is just made to act as a bearing surface. (at least in an engine anyways) So oil may have a lot harder time squeezing out of the plates when the clutch is released. Hope I'm not to corn-fusing :wink:

might not hurt to freshen her up a bit with a fresh bore and a new set of pistons. But you should maybe look into a set of pipes or something along those lines. If your good with a dremel or 1/4 shank rotary and you have a basic idea of how air moves then you could try porting....It's free when you do it yourself! something like this.... BEFORE AFTER Be CAREFUL doing this. you can wreck your motor quick if you do it wrong. take your time. Make the holes match no matter what else you do.... MAKE'm MATCH!!! FREE HP IS GOOD!!! With a set of pipes, carbs, and this porting (also did the rest of the ports) I made 52hp on a chassis dyno. People called me out on it but I have the numbers. You can get alot more out of these stock jugs with a little time on your hands.

you took ATF... OUT... of the bike? or are you putting it in and found alum. in your old oil...??? oh I getcha now... your ATF came out dark and.... yup gotcha Anywho,... I was going to say that ATF is a good choice for gearboxes or chaincases because it's not overly thick in it's cold state. Leaving most of the shavings and filings from normal wear at the bottom of the case. Oil has a tendancy to pull alot of that shit into suspension and turn your lubricant into lapping compound (not literally). i would say if the shavings aren't to numerous then it's normal to see all the crap that was floating around the inside of the engine sitting on the bottom after swapping to a lighter grade lube such as ATF. Further more ATF is acidic, meaning it also cleans the inside of any impurities. It also is a rust inhibitor on top of all that. And it does a good job of getting into the plates when pulling the clutch in. leaving you with a smooth shift For my chaincase in the ol' skidoo 670.... I only recommend ATF!!! :thumbsup: BTW.... NEVER use lucas oil additive in your lower case! It will ruin your clutch pack. My fibers started de-lamming!

I did not know that :thumbsup: goes back to our converse about the iris carb idea...or close anyways. That was you wasn't it??? :shrug:

good point grim! the pwk's are also called "air strikers" they have 2 more bleed holes to help prevent a lean condition while airborn.... mostly a progression into the MX related problems. I have a set of 34PJ's and they work fine. Just a bit big for my stock cyl. even with the stroker and porting. You can read what purpose each carb style serves on the kiehin or mikuni sites. google it.....

Burns stainless..... google it. I got some 321 series 1.25"OD for a good price. You can get any bend or just strait tube. Stainless is the way to go man :thumbsup:

I know the 2-1 topic is touchy around here. I had a trinity 2-1 with a 38mm tmx..... It was easy to tune. But was way slower that having twins. I would have to say 28pwk or even 30pwk kiehins to compliment what you have done.

I think you may have some other gremlins if it's still slipping. how do you have your clutch slave cylinder mounted? I was reading your sig... you have the magura hydraulic clutch right?

:laugh: :thumbsup: Suddenly I feel a bit better reading all this. :shrug: I saw an avatar once that reminded me of some topics on the HQ.... It was of a guy pounding ont he keys until he has bloody stumps then smashed his head on the keys until eye balls were popping out. :yelrotflmao:

In all fairness..... The only mechanical topic I've ever really argued about on the HQ is my turbo project, which yes I have actually done with my own 2 hands. This also is the reason why I don't try to tell people about ford's either. "I don't presume to know everything" like daj says. But when I do, it's usually because I've done it with my own 2 hands. besides I don't like to read...lol Daj... btw man I never said my family owns a race shop. It was a statement that was posted from someone else with a few of my words twisted together. Fact... my parents work at a machine shop making parts that go in fighter jets and cars. I work in a automated warehouse. working on the machine from which food you eat is stored...totitoes and every red sause on the shelf. (this is not the only thing I've ever done btw) My brother owns his own business making super overly modified street legal race cars. He has a HAAS that we like to play with. Now that I've straiten out a few assumptions i feel better. :biggrin:

unless your fastenal is much better than mine, you really can't beat this price.... reverse taps these guys sell only high quality machine grade products. The tap I bought is still sharp after making 20 tierods. the work was done on a hand lathe with a hand tap. :biggrin: hope this helps btw... click to door in 2 days. they are in FL.... I'm in NY....express shipping=option C $5.95

Read the article I posted...poly or epoxy? I'm willing ot bet you have a poly fairing. I'm looking for flexable yet durable. But that's also why I'm looking into carbon/kevlar.... not just carbon or carbon/fiberglass. it should work out a bit better for just that reason. :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: YUP! Yeah i'm not looking for the weight savings..... just the awesome 3D look of the weave. with the colored stuff it all depends on the angle your standing at. In the sun it's better than sex man! :woot: And with all the curves of the banshee (or any other quad for that matter) it will be pure lust for me But we'll have to see when I get the materials. plenty more OT for me this week, so i should have the coin soon enough. yeah but it's still just plastic....2D.... no depth. Nothing like the real thing. Plus for the money your going to pay for plastic, you might as well just go all the way on the real thing. Like I was saying about the fullbores.... They cost soooo much money, I can do the same fullbore look for 2/3 the price. That's why I'm going this route rather than spending the coin on those. I'm always looking for a better way to stretch my dollar, even if it takes a bit longer or it's a bit harder to do. I guess that's just the way I am..... always looking for the longest shortcut...LOL