TurboBanshee420

Most snowmobiles have different jetting per cyl. It's mostly because of the heat build-up on the clutch side. Maybe your having alot of heat transfer from a pipe being too close to the head on one side. It only takes a few degrees to make a diff. alittle outside of the box, but also a possibility if nothing else if so the rich side is the hot side.

I got rid of them because of that reason. I suspect that those 34pj's were a bit too much for this motor. The shearers are a mid-range pipe... aren't they? Most of the power was right around 7800-9k. If you ask me I like to ride WAY up high where all the power should be. In a perfect world this thing should be a raging bull from 7-10k. Which is why I like the single so much. I would have to say it's HIGHLY dependant on your set-up, weather or not a pipe will work the way it should for your bike. My porting is all in the casting. I didn't change the port timing or size in the sleeve wall. Didn't want to due to the constant changes I make to the set-up. No sence in making a drag bike for the trails... :ermm: Or a trail bike for the drags... Daj... what are u running? Doesn't anyone ride a single pipe here anymore? I think what I have on my bike now is the cats ass for my trails. I would like to have a full cheetah, but that would defeat all the time and money I put into the turbo. Besides... I have a crew of 12 and I'm still the quickest and fastest of all of them. Seems none of these 450's are really something to talk about. The only bike I always have right on my ass is that damn 700 raptor. Could be the psycho riding it though. Not to mention they are all retarded loud with a pipe. At least i can say that my banshee doesn't HAVE to be loud until I want it to be. PS... my buddy rides a yfz450 with all the trimmings. Even had it ported and tuned by a specialty shop somewhere out of state. I beat his ass with my fucking 96 saturn SL2 with 160k on the clock from a rolling start on crushed stone.... nuff said!

Looks like it had some life left in it before the run was stopped. I don't know..... I would love to put a tach on just to see where the exact numbers fall. Sounds like you've had plenty of fun on the dyno. It would be nice to get a few runs on the land and sea with this set-up. I've never run anything but the stock carbs on this pipe besides the single 38TMX. I mikuni's didn't really run very good with the dynoport. Maybe I didn't try hard enough before I dumped them and went to the single 38. If you have a dyno available to you, break out the old dynoport and give a run until it just doesn't go any higher. Right around where that run is stopped is where everyone shifts. I don't. Trust me it sounds like an R-6 at redline when I keep pouring it on til shee's just screaming her guts out. :biggrin:

I have to disagree snop... That 2-1 is a really high revving pipe. My shearers zonked out around 9500... Never to make another peep. I have to say that the dynoport is pulling even harder from 9-11k. The only reason I can explain this is that when the mid-range kicks out then about 1k higher and that cylinder starts to steal the pulse from the cylinder 180 ahead of it. It pulls harder from 9k - up than it does from 5-8k. I never held it that long until I had the pipe for like a year. More noticeable in 3-5 gear. What a kick right in the pants though.... right when you think it's all done. I noticed that twin pipes only have one good sweet spot. The single shares pulses at different rpms giving what feels like 3 seperate "powerbands". First around 2k it picks up a little bit, then again around 5k and again at 9k. I wish it would spin higher..... I love the sound of 10k+ rpms!!! thoughts? Don't you run a single.... or is it a single carb?

For searching purposes.... stock airbox w/ proflo intake "30mm" OKO carbs stock intake VF2 reeds Mild porting 2-1 dynoport pipe 4mm stroker longrod .60 over 500-1000ft elevation ended up with.... 150-152 mains 42-45 pilots middle groove on needles Warm/Cold Weather specs Runs strong bottom to top... 94.2mph (gps) 16/40 gears on 22" klaws with some of 6th left to go.... if I had another 10hp it would see the top of 6th.

If your doing the work yourself, just take your time. The crank is the hardest part.... but simple still. Pop off the jugs and pistons. take off the side covers and stator plate Loosen the bolts on the top of the case. turn the motor over (top down) and loosen all the bolts on the bottom. in an even pattern center out. split the case (no prying) take out the crank drop in the new one..don't forget about the locator pins on the crank bearings (some don't have any) drop the case back down after cleaning the surface and applying yamabond #4 tighten bolts following the numbers (work them about 1-2 turns at a time so u don't warp the case) reinstall stator plate and covers on the side check ring gaps in the cylinders and mark them for that cylinder ring the pistons and drop on the cub torque all the bolts to spec TOP AND BOTTOM... then do it again after break-in (at least on the top) Here is the run down as simple as I could make it. I may have left something out... follow the clymer manuel.... It will show you the correct order of disassembly. Remember.... DON"T EVER PRY THE CASES!!!!!!!!!!! If it doesn't come apart with a light tap with a rubber faced mallot.... then you forgot a bolt or 3...hehe Take your time. And always have the motor top down when spliting the cases.

sry I failed to mention these are keihins #'s i would think that would be pretty close to where I am on the main. Not sure about the pilots. Its a bit rich on the mains during the day, but not at night. I think I will be dropping down on the pilots to somewhere around 42-45 and up to the middle on the needle. I was just hoping someone out there is running 28pwk's on a single pipe and could tell me where they are at right now. Not that I don't mind having a collection of jets :laugh:

Just wondering what sizes u single pipe guys a running... I'm around 152 mains, 48 pilots, second form bottom clip pos on needle....still running doggy in 1/3-2/3 throttle anyone else running twins on a dynoport?

I do a 108 mile run on a regular basis on my 5.9g IMS tank. But it's all Rail road beds, so it's fast riding. I usually don't have to hit reserve unless I'm riding like an asshole the whole time. But thats only if we stop at the strip club on the way through town. :biggrin: Bring a 2g can on the grab bar or nerf an get a huge tank. You should make it. If not.... bring a tow rope :cool:

Ok maybe someone posted this before me.... maybe not. Look close at that fucker.... sick as shit!!! www.trinityracing.com > gallery > tinity built quads > Red Dragon get a load of that mother... GT-45R hairdryer, triple cylinder on the giggle gas.... need I say more? sorry no link because it's fucking java

LOL.... great reply. I just wanted the cheap route so I can spend some seat time on the old gurl. I've been going apeshit on the OT at work since early spring. Got nothing done this summer... My brother has the dyno sitting in the back yard at his new house under a tarp. So I never made anymore progress on the turbo tuning. Shee runs but not worth mentioning. Always next year. All my spare thinking time is well spent on the snowmobile season this year. Thanx for the input guys! Anyone ever feel like they are twice their real age?

will the spring capsel hold the cabke in place? Should i trust it?

Ok guys.... I bought a set of these OKO 30's from "carbpartswarehouse" on egay..... Anyone have the wrong cable sent with yours? They sent me a cable for the keihin style slides with the small vertical barrel on the end. These slides need te mikuni style cable with the large horizontal barrel nubbies.....DAMMIT Also I was looking them over. It seems 2 of the bowl screws hole in the bowl flange don't line up with the body. It's a different bolt pattern. just 1 screw on each corner opposite from each other. any info from the people who have these?

315 area code huh.... Where are you located? I'd be willing to come give a look if your close enough to rochester. Sounds like your somewhere around buffalo

bump

I would say if you have those mods and stock jetting..... If you start mixing at 40:1 then you will be real close and have no more oil mess. anything above 40:1 and u should be running REAL good oil. remember when you change the mix ratio u are also changing the "jetting" so to speak, because gas will be taking the place of the absent oil.

I would have to say from my experience that a straight shot is always the best route for an intake runner. The cascade intake isn't very good in that aspect. But the graydon is very much better. The longer tubes will give a better midrange for the very small sacrife of an unnoticable amount of throttle response. see my jetting thread for pics of the intake I'm building to last me through to snowmobile season.

Thanx for the reply liftd.... but my carbs seem to have walked away on me somewhere... strange huh... I think so too. So I'm making a 1.75" 316ss 2-1 manifold to use either 1 34pj or the 38pwk off the gasgas... What is a good place to start with that carb? I had a 39tmx on a trinity intake and I would go between a 560-600 hex. So I assume I would be on the high side with this pwk too. How high do the hex sizes go for keihin? dynoport 2-1 v3 reeds 2-1 custom intake pod filter trail port 500-1000ft elev 40-80 degrees f ok... stab! pics below....it's not done obviously. took about an hour, between calls at work. don't mind the stock intake bolted to the backside.

I have an oem stem from my 02 and pegs as well..... no gaurds. make offer

F/S... 34mm PJ set, like new.................Looking to trade for 28pwk keihins or 33/35mm pwk 2-1 setup stock pegs, like new stock airbox shell, like new stock pipes , like new 02 stock black tank cover stock swinger, like new, or freshly sand blasted 4 U stock axle, like new no rust stock carrier with new twin rows installed AC racing propegs nerfs black nets, nets in fair shape post an offer and you shall recieve a reply

WOW.... not one person knows anything about stock banshee carbs. Must be the first thing you all took off huh....

ok i never ran my stockers ther than when it was new.... so I have no idea of the correct scaling for the round slides 4mm longrod trail port 2-1 dynoport where should I start? need help asap for the ride this weekend..... Thanx!!!

ok i never ran my stockers ther than when it was new.... so I have no idea of the correct scaling for the round slides 4mm longrod trail port 2-1 dynoport where should I start? need help asap for the ride this weekend..... Thanx!!!

ok i never ran my stockers ther than when it was new.... so I have no idea of the correct scaling for the round slides 4mm longrod trail port 2-1 dynoport where should I start? need help asap for the ride this weekend..... Thanx!!!

Have one with about 20hrs.... proflo kit and foam twinair in new cond. lid with holes or not...you pick