TurboBanshee420

im gunna stash them back in my barn til i can muster up a shit to give. back to workin my my boat. its more important to see boobies than get a warrior running so I can sell it. got 2 banshees, a blaster, and a gasgas wild 300 to get to next. just picked up a 93kx125 in mint shape too.

anyone..... bueller?

i had my stator shit out once creating a ground loop. when i took the ground off the frame by the cdi it sparked, but not when it was attached. strange but true. make sure the stator isnt fried. check it using an ohm meter, ground the black lead to the engine and check continuity on the leads. if you get continuity from ground to the leads its shorted to ground thus no spark. also check continuity across the 2 leads from the pickup coil.

yeah I cut the e-brake switch out, clutch switch only interupts when neutral safety in open, and I went through those too. reverse switch working as well, that one grounds the kill switch relay. im tired of this thing bro, this quad has been nothing but a pain in my ass. got it for free, shoulda known then that it wasnt going to be good. I've fixed and sold over a hundred quads and this has got to be the worst one yet. you'd be surprised the things I have found on other machines, this one in perticular has no signs of arcing or crossover, no hack wires or anything it was just dirty from sitting for a while. harness was actually pretty clean. I just think its odd that even with a complete transplant I still get the same problem and results. makes me want to get some more tannerite, but the dude already put 500 down to get the parts and get it running.

check this shit out.... 2000 warrior no spark. replaced stator/trigger with known working unit from another 2000 warrior replaced harness and CDI off same bike replaced ignition coil off same bike 100v cranking off primary drive coil .6v (500ohms) cranking off trigger All grounds quintuple checked and cleaned all other interrupts checked and rechecked (reverse and parking brake) If I take the batt pos/neg off for a second or two then connect and hit starter I get one spark and thats it. Swapping parts around and checking again gets the same results....one spark. The cdi is getting charged, its getting signal, and it works if Im getting one spark. but no more after... how can it be that I know all this stuff works on the other bike but not when I put it on this one. Had all the same results with original shit. Nothing left to replace that controls spark. anyone had this happen or have advice? literally nothing let to check or replace. this quad hates me.

ok....weak spark...not comin up in revs soon as the cylinder pressure comes up. blowin the spark right out...gaaaay

stock cylinders ported mild drag 28 keihins vf2 toomey t5's pod filters 1000ft elev ballpark what jet specs r u guys at. this dudes quad runs alll wrong with 155 mains....tearing into it right now. more info coming. just wanted to see what other guys with this setup have first

I don't follow ya on your last post snop... Whatcha mean mang? I had it on a 4k lb roll in second gear. plenty to slow down there. unless you meant the opposite in which case yeah maybe it was alot to turn with a quad. it should not make any diff to a 50 or so hp quad in second gear. tons of reduction. weight>reduction its kinda like a 90hp civic on there in 3rd gear. i will check into the choke thing cause his choke didn't seem to do as much as it should have when I used it. well I have it at my house now for fun times with wrenches. if anyone can think of another thing I can check for air leaks let me know. i noticed it burns a small amount of coolant when cold started. maybe something not torqued or bad head gasket. thanks guys

yeah me either bro... my banshee sure runs like a raped ape...lol gunna tear it down for leak inspection, then reassemble and do a leakdown again

follow ya there.... heres some shit though. it runs aroun 13afr wot with no prob. any other throttle input makes it shit out for seconds until it catchs again of course no throttle applied once it cuts. fuel flow is perfect float level diaphragms...etc. i'm stumped. even at my elevation it using too much fuel to get it where I need it. I'm easily 20% over what everyone else is running with this setup. not right at all...

yeah I checked all over the raptor forum.... something ain't right on this dudes bike cause I'm already wayyyy over the jet sizes most ppl are running and its still giving me 16-18afr's on the dyno and i just tried to start it back up after a cooldown and it popped backwards and just broke a fucking tooth off the starter gear. I'm gettin pissed. i even called dynojet and trinity racing for some advice with none luck. nobody seems to ever use anything but stock taper on the needles. unless they go to the FCR carbs for a thousand bucks. shitty. guess it goes back to my house for a teardown to see if it was even put together right....gaaaaaayyy

01 rappy 4mil stroker .60 over custom pipe no lid /k&n 1000ft elev i have 185/190 mains and 30 pilots in it now, stock needles on the richest slot. Its cutting out at 1/8 throttle but not nearly as bad as it was before and half throttle lasts about 2 seconds before the candle goes out on the dyno i need to go fatter on the needles alot! i'm going in a bit to pickup some bigger pilots too, prob 35-45. question is... Which needles to buy??? ....and anyone have a similar setup? where did you end up if so? thanks for looking guys

Ok who is going to try this? I just blew an o-ring out of my head and its drinking coolant, so I decided since I have to take the head off to buy a set of 18cc domes and go for broke on e85. Anyone know what size to start with on the main? I was told to drill out the main to .116 and .086 on the pilot to start with.

All sounds good, but I'd stay with the cdi unless you want to push start your bike. Squirt will not fire on anything less than 50rpm's for 3 revolutions....what i'm saying is....you will never be able to kick start your bike again. Been there...done that. Stay with the CDI IGN......Do not do direct coil control unless you have plans to put e-start on the shee. MAF is not needed. I only used it for the turbo to keep track of the huge volumes of air I was pushing in. Make sure you stay away from this too. You will get a headache unless your a very smart engineer with programming experience. I promise you!

http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=59 good buy!

I don't believe you NEED to turn it into a square wave, since I didn't and it worked great....but it would be a good idea to put a clean signal in....because i had interferance issues with the MAF signal wire from the VR sensor wire. I ended up using an RF shielded wire on all three (both VR wires +/- and the MAF signal input wire) to get rid of it. I also utilized the "dave cap" to suppress the EMP soaking I was getting off the 50,000v spark I had going on.(accel HE ign coil)

you pulling signal off the coil neg or running a trigger wheel?

uuuuhhhhh.....Your main affects all fuel circuits.. But you have to go up roughly 35% to use E85. This means up on the main, up on the pilot and probably move your needle up too. Worth a try. It won't blow up if you don't beat it until your on the rich side and can finally do a plug chop. I'm just curious what he is using for FI control and whatnot. Also would love to see his VE map. (volumetric efficiency) Which is how most FI systems determine fuel amounts.

loboboy..... Can u post a pic of your FI system? If possible I would like to see a copy of your enrichment map as well. Details....???

bump your jetting up 35% and go for it. Make sure you use a good castor oil to mix with.

get an rz350 and slap a banshee frontend on it....papers are already straight and 3 wheelers are cooler

opened it up and found the adjustment pin backing out and jam nut loose. I guess that would have an adverse effect on my shifting huh...lol Adjusted and locktighted. Works great so far just going down the road. I'll take it out tomorrow on some trails and see how she goes. I still have a little bit of tuning to do anyways.

my coolhead had a big one around the deck, one on the top of each dome by the plug, one on each side by the plug hole in the head itself, and one around the dome to seal it on the deck around the piston(these are about 2.75in/dia) Also some red ones for the pipes.

either 10mm or 12mm....just get both to make sure. Bikebandit usually will list sizes of that kind of shit

Thanks for the input guys. I'm lost as to why it would shift any different when I didn't change anything but the star. I would assume it would still be set right since the pins are all the same location from star to star. I guess I'll open it back up and give it a tweak and see if it helps.