TurboBanshee420

i didn't change anything, just dropped it on and put it back together. What screw are you talking about? mAybe you can find a picture to help....The only ones I can think of that are in there is the screw holding the star on and the one holding the shift shaft spring (more of a stud really).....You got my noodle baking

I installed a modded shift star from cascade.... It works well to reduce shifting effort. However.... I no longer can shift at high rpm unless I REEF on the shifter. I believe because the rounded noses on the star pionts no longer gives me the push to get it into the next gear. So I always end up missing shifts about 10x in a row or just ripp gear lugs up....I'm waiting for the tranny to blow apart next. I think I'll be putting the stocker back in. At least the only shift i missed before was 1-2. JUNK MOD.... Anyone elses experiance the same?

yeah.... post up some info and prices

why doesn't anyone take the time to figure out how to cut the tranny to be somewhere between stock and "dunable" so it helps in both arenas? Is it really that hard to put a small radius on the corner of the dogs to help it slide out? I understand there is a fine line to walk here, but as long as the angle on the flat side of the dogs aren't changed, then it doesn't force it out of gear when you backload them. i'm just saying......a.060 radius would do some good there without letting them push apart.

overpriced yes....but i like the smoother lines

agreed.... no lid, those pipes should be 260 and above on the mains. Your elevation..should start with 280's or 300's to be safe

x2...just got stuff from him

cascade offers DBX silencers on their shearers

yeah i think it was a jackshaft "land & sea" plate he used, so....yeah take 30% off for the cv and maybe 12-15% more for the track and resistence. but not on a banshee trans!!!! take maybe 20% for all of it and call it dill pickle right there.

i'm tellin' ya bro...that is some fucking awesome oil!!!

For years I ran an oil that was made by a company called "blendzoll" (sp) the oil was castor bean, clear and never left any carbon in my engine. mixed very well at any temp. ran great in my 300PV gasgas!!! never mix anything but 32:1.....i hold that bitch wide f'in open all the time...shee likes lube!!!

what mods do you have? sounds to me like you need to pop in some 210 or 220 mains if it's all stock with box lid off or piped or something that would change the air flow volume. basically it sounds a bit lean on the top.

well, I think someone should be studying rotax engineering before they design a cylinder for the banshee....or cases as well. They seem to get tons of power out of very basic set-ups....i found a guy who put twin pipes , big carbs, and some port work and made 153 out of a 583 motor. I saw a set of banshee cases machined to fit a rotax engine on ebay the other day. I WANTED THEM....670 rotax banshee worked over with the right pipes would make that all day long. i just figured trinity would be making more power with there big dogs just a thought... the right twin would make that easy

carbs and filters sold..... I'll probably keep the intake for now unless someone needs it badly.

guys I'm not sure I want to sell the reeds until I have a replacement set lined up. Because they are in use. So please make it worth my while if your going to put my bike down until I can get new reeds.

yes. it fires both plugs every bang... it's called "wasted spark" if you had a coil with 3 wires it would fire all 3 plugs at the same time. This also means that the coil is wound differently to have enough ass to spark all 3 plugs at once. he just needs a banshee flywheel with 3 lugs, one every 120* and a triple wire coil off a polaris XLT or something like that

big 535 cheetah PV on alky won't do it?

I had them..... worked great but ran the bowls dry on my engine.....396 4 mil.... So I machined the seats to .125 from .070 and the problem went away.

just the gaskets

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?show...e+size+pump+gas Yeah I guess I'll just grab some bigger domes and not worry about it. small trails mean the connecting trails between railbeds...roughly car wide. railbeds are 2-3 quads wide and very fast.1' whoops in some areas, but long frequecy from the sleds in the winter.

Been reading....didn't get anyones answers still on a few of my questions. When someone else wants answers and searches my threads....they will get them, instead of more questions as to why someone would do this, like what commonly happens to most threads here on the HQ. Seems to have plenty of grunt off idle.... maybe my topfueler has enough room for groceries after all. I guess I don't clearify my words as best as you need them to understand me all the time daj... I should take some video of the trails I ride, so you can understand what it is I'm doing here with this bike. I'm wondering why you told me to buy 21cc domes for pump gas....I've been reading a few topics, and noone seems to be able to get away with that unless they are at 2500+ft of elevation and have a .050 or higher squish. Is this right?

I have yet to buy race fuel, but I will only run the banshee again with a tank full of the purple stuff..... Pump gas around here sucks balls anyways. I'm planning on pulling the motor back out this week and putting it on the bench for some review, cause I have a feeling my squish is in the .030's....or low .040's.... I would like to see .050 or better. That will probably mean I'll be pulling that base gasket out and using the paper gaskets I got from a&s. Or I'd like to find a copper gasket if they are still made. They used to sell them in different thinkness's. I'm also planning on doing some shift mods, and putting another washer on my lockout weights. I am probably going to buy some 24cc domes too. I like the very bottom end power for the small trails and putting around, but not by sacrificing some topend and having to buy race fuel all the time. I was thinking about retarding the timing some, but that really isn't the piont is it. Why would I want a cub with -4* or -6* retarded timing. So I'm going to just shoot for 150psi cranking compression. That will put me right where I want to be. then I can give her some timing and see how she eats.

just weld some lugs on the stock banshee flywheel every 120* and use everything stock except the coil. Have the crank made the same way, make sure it's welded at the pins once it's degreed. That should take care of your ignition worries.

why you don't think that would be fun? My +4 is just enough... but I run klaw xcr22's. They are about 46lbs a set on the hipers....so they don't snap so hard. 16-41 gears

werd to that... I got some shearers that were from cascade with show chrome...man they look nice on there. Fit was good but i always wished they gave me more room by the choke assy on the left side. My chock nob is already melted half way. I had a billion washers in there but the midpipe is holding it from giving me the space i want by the pipe clamp. Shearers are very good ipes though. this is my second set. I've run trinity, dynoport, t5's,and shearers....shearers are the best pipe for speed, dynoport for the best sound, trinity for the best midrange, t5's are sweet all over pipes.... all on stock cylinders of course