TurboBanshee420

i wouldn't be so sure boyz... The bigger hoop in the front accounts for the upper arm being more forward on the frame. I believe he has the right arm on the right sides. He just needs to even out the adjustments on the hiems a bit.

I got a wiseco hotrods 4mm stroker 5mm longrod crank with gasket kit and 795 series pistons for $599 of ebay about 9 months ago. I still see the same kit every now and again. I didn't feel much of a gain just about 3 bike lengths on my buddy after a 1/4 mile. our banshees were exactly the same before I did it. But in all fairness I did go up a tooth on the front,(16) so that may have sapped a few ponies off my accel power but I stayed ahead the whole time.

ps.... your banshee is sweet! I wish I could ride some sand..... :ermm: I wouldn't have to clean shit all the time and do a frame up twice a year

whoa.... First I have to say that on my a-arms the big ball joint that bolts to the spindle has a jam nut on it,(yours should too) plus it should be screwed out a bit maybe 3/4"... this way you can screw in the inside/upper hiems. They look to be about 3/4" too far out. one good whack and I would be worried about the top arm shearing the hiems off. A threaded rod isn't the strongest thing. those upper links on the top arm are only meant to be screwed out no more than roughly an inch at the most and I think even that would be pushing it for my own tastes.(not including the width of the jam nut) That pic makes me wonder how many threads are inside that tube. Not many i'm thinking. To be on the safe side I would just pull the very large and strong hiem on the wheel side out to make up the difference. You can find the proper jam nut for the big hiem at a loews or something. I can understand why you screwed them all the way in since it has no jam though. Just even them out a bit... better safe than sorry

the longer the intake tract.... the lower in rpm the power falls. Same affect the length of your pipe has on a motor. short pipe=high rpm power long pipe=low rpm power If your running a 2-1 pipe and carb then you might want to get some spacers to compliment the package. I run spacers on my bike because I wanted the extra space behind the reeds for some air movement for my portjob. The extra 1/2" helps I think. This way the reeds don't smack the case @ full swing.

Copper base...... steel head vito's will help rtv is a bad idea anywhere. I've only seen bad things done with it. makes gaskets easy to blow out because it fills any pits in the alum that would normally give gripture for the gasket material. Only paper water pump gaskets have a need for goo. but too much is always bad.

go to harbor freight and get a cheap set of dial calipers(verniers) and put the piston @ BDC. Use the slider that comes out of the bottom when you open it to measure from cylinder surface to piston dome along the wall. It basically a cheap depth gauge. stock stroke is 54mm i think.

If you mount it next to the port the readings will be WAY OFF! Since 2 strokes let out a ton of unburned fuel that eventually gets sucked back in. Th O2 will see all of it and not give you the right reading. An o2 only reads the amount of oxygen in the exhaust not fuel. If you want an accurate mounting position the put it right before the muffler and also mount it on the above the 3-9 o'clock position so the sensor doesn't have any water or condensation sit inside of it while it tries to heat up during "turn on" If your going to get an innovate WB, then get the LC-1 controller with the XW-1 analog gauge package. It will be well worth it if you want to watch where it is running all the time. Pricey though.... You might want to think about one of those pyro gauges from ebay.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Digatron-AT...sspagenameZWDVW These things are cheap and work just as good. The innovate system I have cost me around $350 for the WB & controller... The XM-1 standalone gauge is another $300

Are you on the MSEFI forum? Are you using a fast idle valve? or an IAC? I'm not using either. The TB's I'm using have an air bleed screw for idle levels. I would prsume that you may have the IAC stepper map a bit too low for the higher heat ranges. Whaen you get it hot and it doesn't idle... you turn off the key and back on which will set the fast idle open or your IAC to cranking position (which is about 70-90% open) maybe this is the reason why it works for you. The code I'm using now has signifigent changes from older stuff. It the new 2.873 code that I'm using on the MS2 v.3 platform. You may want to move up to a newer code for more options on your idle circuits. I've found over the last 3 years of dealing with the megasquirt that the more you know about the operating systems and how they affect your engine then the less you blame on mega and the easier it is to find the real solution to your problem. If you post it on the msefi forum they will usually get back to you in a day or so with a good place to start looking. But as I've found out several times..... It's ALL up to you! I've had little help on my conquest because nobody is using the shit I am and noone knows shit about an EFI 2 stroke or MAF with mega for that matter. And the people who do like andy whittle aren't really on the forum anymore because he's already finished all his problems and is probably out there enjoying his EFI 780cc seadoo, while I'm ripping chunks out of my head trying to figure out what he already went through. The trick is to do again and again to get the right outcome and then post it for the next guy to do. I'm sure I won't be the last to efi turbo a banshee. But my goal has been from the beginning to pave the way for many for to do what I'm doing. Though I like to have things that most people don't.... I would like to go out riding with a fellow HQ member that has a turbo banshee one day. Is anyone up for the challenge?

You will need to download the program that I use to tune my bike called MegaTune by B&G in order to see a 3d map. I might be able to find a picture of one on the site. I'll look for you, but it won't be mine. That helps LOADS!!! Now I can see why I can't get a good accel. above 4k rpm. I have it advanced about 30* too much when the pipe kicks. The picture of the ignition map I included in my previous post is pretty close to the curve I'm useing mius bout 10 degrees up high. (and the rpm and map #'s are way different) Does it advance in steps or linearly? Or is this all the info it has? THANX AGAIN MIKE!!!!!!!

check out the website...

Update: I've done some minor renevations to some of the wiring and I'm also in the middle of changing the huge rectifier along with the trailtech regulator for a nice compact unit from a brand new cbr600rr. It will fit much nicer and has some cooling fins. This way the mess underneath the front plastics will be gone.... just a battery and 2 relays. for now. As for it running and riding.... it does. I got my new tires mounted on the hypers and shee's been on the ground for a while now. I've been trying to get a tune that works well, But up until I got a new timing light I didn't know exactly where the timing actually was. So I found a light that will skip pulses for high rpm. applications. Now the megasquirt and the bike's timing are matched. This is why I'm looking for a stock banshee's timing map, so I can copy the lower half to my table. Then when I have the timing table dialed in, the only thing left to do is tune the fuel maps and AFR targets (AFR=air>fuel ratio). The megasquirt uses the O2 sensor to keep the motor running however I tell it to by using the AFR table. This is where I'm at right now. If anyone can get me a copy of the timing table out of there banshee CDI I would be inclided to give a favor of your choice. L8r ~ Ben

What do you need to know? I've got it about as close as anyone can guess it. I'm just really anxious to find a copy of the original banshee timing map. Which like I said before can be pirated from a dyna tech CDI. My sig has most of the info I can give you. But if you really want to get deep into it.... then that's a whole other level. Let me know what your looking to know. I have a thousand and 1 answers for you....... Of course I could always revive the ever hated "turbo banshee" topic ... :biggrin: :: Let me know bro ~ Ben

No I'm using the base adv. map for my Megasquirt. I have the timing calibrated now, so my next step is to get the ignition map as close to stock as possible. The only real way to know what the stock CDI's map is, is to get it out of a programmable CDI. This way I can get my megasquirt dial'd right in without spending a few weeks trying to get it close. If I know the stock map then all I have to do to finish the turbobanshee is to adjust the timing for the boost and I'm all set. Tuning for the fuel side is super easy with an O2 sensor. So that I'm not worried about.

Hey there fellas... I was wondering if anyone could post a copy of their ignition table? I know there is a way to modify a map/table with the dyna FS CDI box with the software they give you when you buy it. If anyone has a DYNA CDI maybe they could be nice enough to post the picture of it or maybe a dialog of what the values are. I'm trying to get a good idea of what my ignition map should be for a stock motor. I can't seem to find anything on the internet to help me. This is what I'm talking about just in case you were wondering...

take an ohm meter and check all the harness wires at both ends for continuity. if you have a good harness and good components, then u shouldn't have a problem. It's probably something real simple you overlooked. I know what your going through trust me. take a step back and drink a beer. look it over with a fresh frame of mind. from stator to spark plug, it will come to you sooner or later.

correct. If you want to check how much material is gone there you can drop the imp. back in and put a straight edge across the casting where the cover goes and it should be around .025-.040 inches. Unless the imp. REALLY eats the cover I wouldn't worry about the gap more than I would be worried about the gawling. Try to smooth the surface with some 360-600 grit sand paper. then take a real small flat rasp (file) and very lightly smooth the edges of the imp. on the cutting edge. also if your doing the high flow imp. then you should check out the casting inside the coolant passage. I remember reading an article written in dirtwheels that was about dean sundauls 10x winning baja banshee. he said that most of the castings made by yamaha are crap and you will find a bunch of flashing and mismatched mold material in the coolant passage on the cover right under the imp. inlet and on the corner going toward the motor on the pressure side. Check it and if it's there then get out the dremel or other rotary and remove it. I also took out the dremal and ported the coolant passages on the stock head and jugs. I didn't go crazy, I just cleaned them up and opened'r up a bit. Too much and the water won't do it's job.

stock carbs? backwards slides? meaning left on right and right on left... that would make them face the wrong way. next would be spark plug gaps... double check! new plugs are NOT gapped after that check the gap between trigger coil and flywheel nubbies... make sure the shitty blade terminals on the ign. coil are not loose as a goose and gittering when it runs.

I rounded the impellar fins over slightly on the edges and then polished it (edges) on a wheel before I installed mine. just for that reason.

I had this happen to me 3 times.... 1st time... the stator was burned through to the body and was making a ground loop. When I took the ground off the frame by the CDI it ran. that's what showed me the problem. 2nd time... the pickup coil (trigger coil) was burned up. no resistance between wires out of it. 3rd time... same problem but the wire broke coming out of the coil casing. not fixable so I had to get another.

that's y I love megasquirt!

Can't be much more than the rest of them. But your definately getting your $$$ worth!

go buy a new ds450! I rode a demo at the local dealer, WHAO! That bitch is like riding a semi tamed wild animal... I would take that over any other. I like yamaha but can-am has always been the bar setter in every catagory of machine they have ever made. They seem to be the people everyone ends up copying in the end.

I always thought the "squish-band" idea on a 2 stroke could be greatly improved apon. It's only meant to keep the explosion away from the rings. I could see a different style working alot better than what we have. Myabe something to help keep some fresh charge inside the cylinder. It would take more than just a wim for a real change to take place though. I bet rotax spent at least a million on there dome design in research. A few years ago I was messing around with a design for a carb that would work like the iris in your eye. but instead of a bunch of flat blades to make the iris. I was going to do something like a variable venturi size. So it would be a smooth transition. I still have a half done proto-type in a box somewhere. Spring steel is what I used for the iris blades. I admit it was wierd but very promising. think of each pulse carrying a "smoke-ring" of fuel, instead of the messy turbulence that circles behind your crab slide. The power-now insert is a devise that helps to stop the turbulence and look at all the attention they are getting with that.... If I had a $100 for every idea I've had, I could afford that cheetah knuckle-head was blabbin about :yelrotflmao: I spend too much time thinking about airflow and HP!!!!! I must have somekind of disease.... maybe it was all the race gas fumes I inhaled as a kid. :shrug: remember... the most advanced invention ideas were spawned from "crazy-talk"

NY does NOT use titles on ATVs. the Registration IS the title. And you also have to have the previous owner give you the name of the last person the register it. Because NY needs to see proof of ownership transfered from the last person that register it. NY BLOWS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! go to the DMV and give them a reciept with the name of the last person to reg. and a scatching of the #'s off the frame. as well as your reg form and origin paper.... this will be enough. I had to go through the same bullshit when I registered my GASGAS. since noone had registered it before me and it was from out of state I had to do alot of fucking around before the bitch at the DMV would give up a reggy. Good Luck