RZBansheeMan

Ons: Nice tight bodies, Height 5'2" - 5'8", Proportionally built, Likes to swallow, Loves to fuck all the time ! Offs: Junkies, Porkers, Stinky puss, Smokers, Droopy Tits, Dead Lays, Teeth Draggers, Loud mouth trailor park queens, Gangsta Bitches, FUPAS !

That's a awesome looking machine :thumbsup: ..................Now let the spending begin :biggrin: Mike

It's something Yamaha should have done all along, but then it would be one less of a mod the consumer / rider would have to figure out or experiment with. Jim at PassionRE told me that it is going to be a better rounded / overall engine than the cub motors ( not more powerful ) for my riding needs especially when and or if I get the Zeeltronic ignition, powervalve controller for it. As he stated " having your cake and eating it too " more bottem end then a stocker and the top end of a hot duner. I bought the Prodesign Cool head for mine so that the untrained eye wouldn't see the YPVS, trying to be a little bit stealthy I guess. Have fun with it. :biggrin: Mike

I wouldn't hesitate to get one. There are a lot of hop up parts for them. I think the banshee swinger and a-arms can be made to fit them. There are stroker kits for them and the best of all the bottom end of these engines are almost the same as Yamaha's DT200 or WR200 depending if it were in the States or Canada, and guess what, the Liquid cooled YPVS topend will bolt on to the Blaster bottem of course the electrical would be needed along with the water pump and radiator but there is plenty of info on how to do it. :thumbsup: Over all these machines can really be woken up and modernized just as well as the almighty Shee ! Mike

I don't know if any one read or not, but what is going to be life expectancy on the O2's being in a 2 stroke exhaust environment ?

Half premium pump gas and half race gas. 100LL avgas would probably work alright also.

I'm not trying to justify his actions, I just don't really want to hear anymore about street racing banshee's and out running cops with them either. However I am not going to jump the band wagon of trash talking people here on the HQ regardless if they are right or wrong. I just wanted to come here to meet new people, learn new things, share some ideas and everything along those lines. I also want to learn something more about injection. Carbs are a thing of the past and injection is now. I hope I am not offending anybody here it is not my intention, but I am trying to help get this thread back on track Mike

Yeah, I read about Smurph's, I was actually gonna ask you if you had heard about it.....LOL My thinking was that with injection one big TB would do the job quite well because the fuel is controlled digitally thru the injectors hence not needing a venturi, as where it seems that 2 will almost always outpower a single on carb terms. Another concern I had was about the 02's and the lifespan of them in premix gas/exhaust, and what are the chances of injectors clogging during winter months while the shee is hibernating ? I appreciate your support and response. :beer: Mike

So.............how about some elaboration on the injection ? Some day after I get my RZ-Shee finshed up and running with carbs, I wanna tackle the Fuel Injection project. I would like to take a little different approach though, maybe it will work, maybe not. I would like to however try and do what GM did with their late 90's Vortec engines and have it use both a map sensor and a mass air meter. It would also be really neat to have this thing sequential injected too. I would like to use one big throttle body similar to a 2 into 1 set up and have the injectors closer to the reeds not at the throttle body, in a sense keeping the runners dry like a multi port injected engine. I would also like to lenghten the runners a little along the lines of a tuned port injection also. I know it sounds a little complex, but that's what really intrigues me about the whole idea. Any thoughts ? Mike

We all have our preferences on where and how we ride, maybe bragging about riding on the streets and out running the cops isn't the best thing to do here on the HQ ( no offense "Turbo" ) but I am quite sure that most of us have taken a quick trip up or down the roads at some point in time. I personally think the bickering should stop !, and the post should continue on as how it were started. I wanna see some dyno numbers and hear a report on how this thing rides ( where, can be left unsaid ). I am also really intrigued about the injection and would like to see a step by step on how to do that. Turbo, you have one kick ass quad project, stay focused, finish it and tell us more about it ! :biggrin: :beer: Mike.

Some of the best porting is going to come from these guys. The best thing for you to do is contact each and every one for some consultation and make your decision from there. F.A.S.T. Patriot Passion

http://www.rz350parts.com/ http://www.rzsunlimited.com/ http://www.rzrd500.com/ I got the majority of my stuff on Ebay, but these places might be able to help you out. If you are looking for electronics, and or other parts. I also have a guy's email address, he claims to have a dozen or so RZ's that he was parting out, but I haven't talked to him in a very long time to know what he still has or not.

Although mine is not finished yet, I have ridden one. In my opinion Yamaha should have incorporated it in to the banshee to begin with. It really depends on what you are looking for....... If you are looking for a full out drag motor, the RZ is not the best choice. The Cheetahs, Cubs, Twisters, T-Rex's, and so on, are gonna be better for drags. The RZ setup, is a great overall setup, you will have a real nice smoothe, and broad powerband. Stock for stock, you will more lowend and more topend than a banshee . :thumbsup: Although with the right port work and a nice little stroker crank you could have an easy 80 + horse engine that would flat out rock. You could have your cake and eat it too ! :biggrin: They will require a little more maintenence than a non powervalved cylinder, because they are sealed with O-rings and bothe valves are coupled together in between the cylinders, the power valve servo drives the left powervalve which is coupled to the right. you want to make sure they are clean and operate freely. If not it couild cause problems and ruin the valves. Obviously you will want to run good gas and good oil in these engines to help keep carbon from clogging up the valves. There is a few more electrical components to keep in check also, but overall your looking at an engine that was factory rated at 59 hp for U.S. models and 63 hp for 1986 and later Canadian models. If you already have the Banshee bottom end, I would start with that and use the RZ shift drum and forks, the RZ has rollers on the forks and the drum has a little bit smoother paths for the rollers to follow resulting in a smoother shifting transmission than the Banshee. Th RZ transmission has a wider ratio gear spread for on road use as where the Banshee's transmission gearing is better suited for off road. ( Once I get mine done ), I will never go back. The biggest reason for me to use this set up is because of the uniquness and to use Yamaha production parts. I love to ride long wheelies and this set up will be a plus for that also. Hope this helps you make your decision. Mike

As for the powervalves, You should be a ble to pull the side cover off the cable pully side, with the engine running you should be able to rev it up a bit, and you should see if the servo motor is actuating the pulley thus opening the powervalves. Get a "Clymers" manual, a "Haynes" manual, or get that CD I linked to you for all the proper wiring digrams valve adjustments and specs.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-RZ35...1QQcmdZViewItem I have some wiring diagrams if you still need them, I could e-mail them to you. Mike

Word !!! My first Banshee was a 1992 and it came from a buddy of mine ( who bought it used in 97 ). We ran that thing for like 4 years with out rebuilding. It always had great compression, but we ran Avgas and HP2 when dune riding and premium gas with HP2 anywhere else it was ridden. The only 3 problems it ever had was when I put a new throttle cable on it the carbs got out of sync. So I took it in to have them adjusted and cleaned - the stock pipe mounts broke - kick start lever ratlling, which are common but minor problems. I guess you could say it had a 4th problem and that would be traction with stock tires :biggrin: . If well taken care of and well tuned they are very reliable, and very, very fun. I think the worst thing about them is that they cost almost twice to rebuild or modify than a single cylinder 2 stroke and that is obviously because there is two of everything on it - Carbs, Pipes, Reeds, Pistons, Cylinders. But if I'm not mistaken they are cheaper to buy, maintain, modify than a newer 450 of any brand. Plus the Banshee's high pitched wail sounds way cool, not like a big farty 4 stroke. :biggrin: Mike.

Try switching your plug wires from one side to the other and see if the problem goes to the left cylinder. If so it could be your coil acting up.

Try to find somebody that welds or has welding experience to show you and then try to repeat what they do. Now get some scrap metal of similar thickness and practice, practice, practice, it will take some patience but you can do it.

I will once I get my quad done.......... I do have some friends that used to ride up there.

Check to see if your upper radiator hose is loose, and there also is an overflow line right behind the radiator cap, check to see that is on snug and or not dry rotted.

I don't know how familiar you are with welding or welders, but some of the arc welders could be set up for TIG and that would be way better off than arc. I would not arc it. No offense to you guys out there that swear by arc welders but from my experience working in fab shops, arc welders are for "pipe welders" and " farmers". Not sheet metal or thin walled tubing. :yelrotflmao: I would do my best to try and locate some friends, relatives, or somebody, even if you had to do a little ass kissin', who has a mig welder.

You would probabaly be way better off if you could find a mig welder.

I've shipped a lot of stuff from Ebay sales overseas and it is very expensive, because everything has to be express. I have a good friend that has a Fed-Ex truck and route and he'll sometimes help me ship things at his discount which is 50% ground and 75% express.

Yes the choke mechanisms are gonna be separate along with the idle adjustment screws.

I'll do it ! to help a fellow shee rider P.M. me so we can talk the details out. Mike.