RZBansheeMan

Would it be possible for the RZ stator to be used and or modified for use on the shee electrical system ?

You can down load it from the top of the repairs and mods section or try Ebay, there's lots of them there.

http://www.prodesignracing.com/main.htm Look under yamaha and Pro Flow filter kit, or you could call Jeff at F.A.S.T. he might be able to help you out.

http://www.prodesignracing.com/main.htm

Found it on Ebay sometime back...I made sure I ended up with it, if you know what I mean. Go to pro Designs website I think they still have them listed, but I have read that they don't make them anymore in another forum. However I cannot confirm that.

I haven't purchased them yet....... I still need to get my cylinders, crank, coolhead back from Passion. I have to come up with the cash first if you know what I mean.

Hey Yaxy, How's it going ?. The intake ports are taller on the RZ's also and the transfers are also a little different. The port lay out looks similar but there are subtle differences. especially on the 1UA's I would like to have some body post a nice pic of the port maps. I do have them for the 31K - 48H which are the same and the 1UA so people can see the difference. I could email them to you if you could post them.......I don't know how. I could also take some pics of my 1UA intake ports and have some guys look at these honkers. This may sound weird but the bottom of the intake window, in the liner, is lower than the bottom mating surface of the cylinder. P.M. me if you are interested in looking at the maps or pics of the ports. Mike.

I thought I read somewhere that the honda TRX 450r shocks were an inch longer than the YFZ's and that they would fit. That should gain back some of the ride height.

I don't have mine done yet, the topend is still at "Passion racing engines". I did however do tons of research before jumping into this project and I do have a pic of better port maps than you have there, let me know if you would like a copy. I also have all the wiring diagrams for both the RZ and the banshee to help with the wiring. You will need these things also Stator - Flywheel CDI box :thumbsup: Voltage regulator - Rectifier Poervalve control box Powervalve servo motor Either a battery or battery eliminator - which is just a large capacitor The Yamaha R1 uses the same servo motor for their exhaust valve and the cables are longer so you could use one of those and mount the servo a little further away on the engine and they are cheaper on Ebay than the rz servos. The port lay out is similar to the banshee but the power valve will close further than the banshee is stock and opens up more than the banshee is stock. from what I understand you can't port banshee cylinders to have the torque that stock RZ's will produce, but the banshee cylinders can be better drag ported because there is no powervalve in the way. The porting is a little hotter on the RZ engine also. The U.S. models were "31K" and "48H" cylinder castings were rated at 59 HP stock and the Canadian model with the "1UA" cylinders is rated at 63 HP. I have both sets 48H and 1UA. If you want to do the custom programmable ignition thing there is a guy that makes them for RZ's http://www.zeeltronic.com/page/home.php and he also makes a programmable powervalve controller which is the "cats ass" because you could dial the valves in to the pipes you have. :thumbsup: I personally don't believe in running an adjustable timing plate. With the programmable ignition you can program the amount of advance that you want, what you don't want is any timing advance at wide open throttle, which you will have with an adjustable plate that's been advanced. As for pipes the Stockers, Rockets, Paul Turners, and I think the new redisigned R2's will clear the Powervalve assembly. Most other will have to be dented. You will also have to make some exhaust flanges for the RZ cylinders to fit your pipes to them. For port work I would contact Jim at PassionRe, Dan at Patriot, Jeff at F.A.S.T. , Jim is the only one I have talked to personally and is a super awesome guy. From what I read on the forums it sounds like Dan and Jeff are awesome guys also. Let me know if you need better port maps and wiring diagrams I can email them to you. As for mine it is going to be a 12 port 4mm stroker and some day hopefully fuel injection. :thumbsup: Hope this helps, Mike.

It would be best to re-hone with the installation of new rings so they can seat properly. :thumbsup:

I wouldn't be against mixing up some high temp epoxy and filling them in carefully and then using a flat edge to carefully scrape it flush while it is still pliable.

These probably wouldn't be too bad of a purchase if you are looking to do some moderate home porting. http://www.racelogic.com/whatissportport/ :biggrin:

They are kinda like the boost bottle thing ! Don't waste your money on that nonsense stuff. You would be better off with the V-force 3's

Try these guys http://www.maxpower-engines.com/big-bore-kits-2stroke.htm Hope this helps. Mike.

They look like PT ancestors.................... :yelrotflmao:

I think You are misunderstanding what is being described as cutting one float off. What "dynodon" is saying is, there is one float in each carb, but each float is made up of two bobbers, so cutting one of the bobbers off from each float will allow that much more volume of fuel in each carb. Hope this helps. Mike

You could also call a lawyer, *most of them have free consultation*, sounds like he's being a dick if he's that concerned if you have insurance on it or not.

Hey there Differentstrokes, those are lookin pretty good for at home do it your selfers. I've deen several butcher jobs in my day, some people think because they have a dremel that they can port but definately not true. Yours look really good from the pics. :thumbsup:

This should help explain things for you http://www.racelogic.com/whatissportport/

A few ridin' buddies and I clocked one next to a road bike, several different passes, and were coming up with a solid 75 mph along with two Pro Circuit ported - piped CR's. They were into the 72 - 74 mph range. The Shee was a 1992, bone stock, with a stock replacement K&N filter. Fast enough to Die.......

Thanks for the info, this is something that I was unaware of. How would that work with his 4mm crank and short rod though ?

I'm not sure what your best option is but wiseco's website shows 66.5 mm for stock stroke and stock crank. They show 66 mm for long rod stock stroke and 66mm for the 4mm long rod. As for the blaster pistons they start at 66 mm and go up to 68.25 mm, but you would need a stock stroke long rod set up.

Blaster pistons were a thing of the past....... They were used with a stock stroke crank and yamaha RD 400 rods which were 5mm longer. This was the old 370 long rod motor. Your best bet is to have the cylinders mic'd and if needed, get bigger pistons and have the jugs bored to them. Go with the wiseco pistons and and have the clearence set at the recommended size. If I'm not mistaken it should be .003"

It might be worth it only if the T.O.R.S. is included............LMFAO !!!!! :yelrotflmao:

I hope you don't take offense to this, but when going to the stroker crank, it would have been a better idea to use the longer rod set up. The reason being is longer stroke and stock rod will net a lower rod to stroke ratio and increase rod angularity. This will put more load on the piston skirts front and back which is not good. You definately don't want any piston chatter in any engine.