RZBansheeMan

It all depends on how creative you wanna get with it, such as how much modding are you willing to do to the frame. I would think it's possible but maybe not without adding some height to the frame or stretching it upwards. Definately sounds interesting.

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: It must be a "GEEK" thing. :geek:

Make sure that there isn't any old stale ass gas in it. Pull the fuel petcock and carbs apart and make sure they're not all gummed up. Make sure the mice haven't eaten your wire harness or built a neat little nest in the exhaust or air box for ya. Check all the fluids. I would pull the exhaust off and look up into the exhaust ports and make sure the cylinders aren't rusty. "Fog" basically means to prime it and get it lubed up before trying to just start it.

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

I can't remember for sure, but I think that silly ass thing even goes up stream of the M.A.F. meter, and if so, what do you think happens to all the neato swirling air then ?, it gets straightened out again. Not to mention, I have my doubts that all that swirling air even makes it to the plenum, I imagine that it stops swirling in the corrigated factory intake tubes if not at the throttle body.

That Tornado thing is a big $ 60.00 P.O.S. That stupid thing is so far up stream of where it would need to be to for any effectiveness that it's rediculous. Besides the automakers / engine designers already have a vortex design that's incorporated into all these "swirl port" heads. Gm did a really good design with their "Vortec" series engines. Yeah, I watched the Mythbusters episode on fuel mileage gimmicks too. It seemed a little odd that having the tailgate up would provide better gas mileage, but they proved it. The only thing I could see better is a tonneau cover, which I have experienced a mileage improvement with.

This all should be a given, especially as stated that these not being power assisted brakes. There should be no arguement whatsoever about stainless braided not providing a more positve / firmer feel or "better stopping power" rather than a real mushy one that is provided with the rubber lines. The addition of a twin piston caliper is surely going to give you more stopping power on stock pads, the more aggresive the pad the faster you wear out the rotor. And Yes the brake lines have everything to do with stopping the wheels, DUH. No brake lines = no brake fluid being directed and forced into the calipers = no clamping the rotors = no stopping of the wheels. This isn't the Flintstones. :shoothead:

I would just take that thing out, it's not needed for ATV'ing with, unless you plan on cruising this thing around in town like a vehicle, even then you would need an electric cooling fan and a temp guage. It's in there for all the varying traffic / highway / city / speed conditions that a bike sees, not only that but the bike if I remember right also has an electric cooling fan. My Pro Design Cool Head for the RZ doesn't even have a thermostat housing.

I've got mine trained better than that, it just falls open at apprx. 3:30 - 4:00 with the cooler near by. :biggrin:

The Pro Circuits are gonna be closer to a Toomey which will be more of a top end pipe and the FMF fatty's are a bottom end torqueier pipe. It's gonna depend on if you want bottom end engine or a top end engine.

Hey "FireHead :geek: ", how about the "Tornado" ? Will that increase gas mileage on my RZ Banshee ?................ :yelrotflmao:

What I meant by getting your port timings back, was when adding a stroker you need to have your cylinders ported to match the new stroke. ie. the ports need to be raised and lowered both, they also need to be opened up to flow enough for the added displacement of your engine. That kit comes with the GAY spacer plate, if your gonna do the 4mm stroker, DON'T use the spacer plate. That basically is so you can drop the crank in and slap your engine back together without porting just to make it run, but it will never run quite right without the proper porting. Another thing, if your considering a new crank, while your at it, I would recommend getting it trued and welded. Your best bet is to contact Jeff @ F.A.S.T. racing for parts and pricing.

Where exactly did it crack at ? I've got quite a bit of experience with TIG welding, the worst part will be grinding away the chrome to get to clean metal and of course with the pipes being used any carbon deposits trying to pull into the weld, but should be fixable. Doesn't sound like too many peoples running Rockets anymore, but I will run mine, I only bought them because I thought they looked really cool, plus they were hyped up quite a bit and they cleared the RZ powervalves. If I had my quad finished and had the money for the "New" version of the Rocket, I would just swap you the right side pipe, mine are pretty nice. Anyhow, let me know if you need help getting it re-welded. Mike

Hey "Wallace", if I had easier access to a TIG welder, I would weld them up for you for a beer or two. Hell, I might even be able to make some phone calls and arrange for use of one. Your not all that far from me. Let me know if your interested. Mike

Get a stroker along with proper stroker porting..........More stroke = more leverage = equals more torque !

Go with a set of Shearer's if you want top end !

My first Banshee was a 1992. A buddy of mine bought it in the spring of 1998 and I traded my CR 500 for it in the summer of 2000. I traded it for a Nice 1985 Z-28 in 2002. We always ran premium pump gas for local riding and 100LL Av-Gas for Silver Lake dunes all mixed with HP-2. That engine had never been torn apart, always ran awesome. So I guess that's not to bad, 10 yrs. :biggrin:

The stroker is the way to go, but just keep in mind that when adding a stroker, you will need porting to get the port timings back, you will need to have your stock head cut for stroker pistons or a cool head with stroker domes to clear the pistons, you will need some pipes if the ones you have are stockers, and you will probably need some carbs and reeds.

They are a "torquey" machine for sure, but in stock trim they are tall, have a high center of gravity, and are a tad narrow, ultimately making them tippy. A popular thing to do with them is to lower them and put wider A-arms and axle to cure the problem.

I had the same problem when I got my first Banshee. I am 6' also and weighed maybe 160 - 170ish, now I'm closer to 200....LOL. Anyways I went from riding my CR dirtbikes at Silver Lake dunes and loved them but an accident (at a local track) left me a bum left knee, after 2 months went by my buddy swapped his Banshee for my CR 500 for the day at the dunes so I could still ride. It was awkward as hell going from a bike to a Banshee for the first time but the more I rode it the more I fell in love with it. By the end of the day we agreed he take my bike and my payments, and I got the Banshee :thumbsup:

You will have to do some math, because I don't have the teeth number for all the gears, but I do have the ratio's for every gear 1st - 6th for both RZ and Banshee. _______BANSHEE_______RZ 1st -____ 2.461_______2.571 2nd -____1.812_______1.778 3rd -_____1.500_______1.318 4th -_____1.250_______1.083 5th -_____1.045_______0.962 6th -_____0.875_______0.889 Hopefully this will help you figure things out ! :beer:

My bad on my first response. The web site that I linked is very accurate on frame VIN's, I just looked at the last digits of the VIN's you posted and not the 10th digits. "T" = 1996 "W" = 1998 "X" = 1999

Sorry, my bad, sarcasm isn't as easily detected typed......LOL

Probably the Canadian border :geek:

Because The RZ engines love fuel, I think the the exhaust duration is already in the near 200* ballpark when the powervalve is fully open, if I'm not mistaken that is closer to drag porting spec for the exhaust. I remember seeing those intakes and boysen ports on those jugs of yours and those things were massive, I would almost have to say that those T-5's might not be enough pipe for the way those things are ported. It seems somwhere here in the HQ's there might be some old topics on RZ conversions and jetting, and I almost want to say the some people were well into the 300's with mikuni carbs.