BdBanshee

Make sure you reinforce in front of the steering stop. It always ends up bending forward, and then the steering will stick at full lock. Not cool!

You mean like this? Works great and doesn't leak either. Mine has been this way for over 14 years.

Those are all good mods, but that is quite a bit more than I charge. Those mods will make quite a bit more power, and make it more rideable as well.

My 34mm Keihins use the RU-0820 K&N filters. This is them in the pic, but I used to have them clamped directly on the carbs.

I burned my calf on a Blaster one time after putting a new pipe on and trying to get it jetted correctly. Wearing shorts and Nikes and it burned the crap out of me! Never done it on anything else, always wear riding boots now.

A boost bottle isn't going to make hardly any difference at all. I like the way mine runs better with it on, but still not much of a difference. For more bottom end I would get your stock head milled, or buy a new head with smaller domes. Advance your timing 4-5 degrees, and get your flywheel lightened. Many people have claimed changing the reed cages will gain bottom end, I can't tell the difference from stock, but I made several mods at the same time. A cheap way to feel like you have more bottom end, is to drop to a 1 tooth smaller sprocket on the front. If you want to gain even more get a good port job, and some larger carbs to go with it. I am assuming you already have aftermarket pipes.........

I have checked 2 brand new cranks from Vitos, and one was OK, and the other was out of spec. To be sure your new crank is OK print out the crank spec sheet from the service manual and have someone check it before you have it welded.

While it is on the quad I use a spanner wrench.

A bunch of us did it a few years ago at Waynoka (Little Sahara), I didn't want to try it on my Banshee because of the clamp-ons. A friend loaned me his 400EX and I did it on that. I went down to the waters edge, and then turned and accelerated away from the water until I hit top speed in 4th gear. Turned around and headed towards the water in 4th wide open, arms stretched out with my butt as far back as I could. Skimmed right across it! After I did it all my friends had to try it too, it is a lot of fun but make sure you carry enough speed to get across the water or you'll go over the bars when the front end dips. Here is a pic.

I always set the gap to .030", Yamaha's spec is .020"

They have 30 amp plug ins for sure, I think they might even have 50 amp plugs too.

Stupid Imagestation.

Looks like we are going to be there that weekend! Maybe we can hook up again, and not have to work on anything this time............

They both work good with stock pipes, the timing works better with aftermarket pipes, but still helps performance with the stockers. You will notice the difference on a stock Banshee, I would also recommend getting a different head or having yours milled .030".

The stockers always end up breaking. Of course the new stocker that I bought to replace it broke too, so I just welded mine back up, and it hasn't broken again since. Now I have a spare welded stocker in my toolbox just in case. Have often thought about the aluminum replacement shifters, do they actually work better? I can't see how the stock steel shifter can flex any more than a billet aluminum piece.

No, I was just kidding But which mod made your Banshee run better for the money, the $400 radiator, or the $125 flywheel and timing plate? I have a larger radiator on my Banshee too, but it's not a Toomey. I bought mine back in 1992 from a place called Engine Trix, nobody used to even offer a larger radiator until recently. Pretty pricey mod really, I wouldn't have bought it but my stocker was ruined and before Ebay it would have cost a fortune to even go back stock.

To install/remove these parts you first have to remove the gear shift lever and footpeg on the left side. Then remove the plastic stator cover. Using an impact, remove the nut on the end of the crankshaft holding the flywheel on. Then thread your flywheel puller into the flywheel until it stops, this is a left hand thread (lefty tighty - righty loosy). Then thread the bolt into the flywheel puller until it contacts the crank, then using 2 wrenches tighten the puller bolt up until flywheel pops off. Sometimes it will get tight and then you can tap puller bolt with a hammer and it will pop loose. This is a pretty simple job. After the flywheel is removed you can see the stator/timing plate. There are 3 - 10mm bolts holding it to the case, loosen these and then unplug wiring from harness. When reinstalling just reverse directions. But before putting flywheel back on you will need to rotate crankshaft until flywheel key is on top. Then you slide flywheel on crank and line up with key. Make sure it is seated fully and then torque flywheel nut to 59 ft. pounds. I can change a timing plate and flywheel in about 30 minutes. Both these mods work great on the Banshee. When done at the same time you will notice a big difference. I have been doing these mods for people since 1989 and never had anyone go away disappointed, you will like the results!

Hey, I resent that remark!

Yea I remember when every big weekend you could go out at night and as soon as you went through the gate you could see what looked like a spot of daylight where they were burning a VW block or tranny case. Everyone would head out to the light and hang out and watch the rails get wild. I guess they would bust you if you did it now?

Seat covers really aren't too hard to install. Just get your staple gun out, start at the front and take your time, making sure to keep it centered. I have installed several and they have all came out great.

I have a '88 and want to upgrade the lines on the front to steel braided. Where do you buy the lines for the old style calipers? Thanks.

I put mine in a few years after I did the porting. I notice that it smoothed out the hit I got when the powerband comes on. It also increased the low end, probably the reason for the powerband being smoothed out. The first time I drag raced after I broke in the new top end I did at the same time, it pulled quite a bit harder on top too. All my friends put them in with every port job.

The x-ring is just like an o-ring, but causes less friction when riding. Instead of looking like an O if you cross sectioned it, it would look like a X if you cross sectioned it.

You can also get them, and any other part for your Keihin carb from Sudco. They are the importer for Keihin.

I'll trade a set of stock pipes, and pay shipping for all of it too.