BdBanshee

Yamaha Manual says .020", I always set them at .030". They will spark and start just as easily at .050". I don't know why the gap would change, BTW I use blue locktite on those two small screws that hold it on.

Here is a pic: I remove 8-9 ounces from the O.D. of the flywheel. Since all stock flywheels don't weigh the same the amount varies, but the finished weight is the same. I built a fixture that the flywheel fits on, I do not clamp on the flywheel. And sometimes I also add slots to lighten it up more.......

That's the way the factory balances the stock flywheel. It looks like his flywheel was farther out of balance than most, thats why it has so many balance holes. Motor looks sweet!

Yes, before you have it welded get it checked/trued.

That's who I got mine from, got it in 3 days to my door. Excellent service, excellent product. ditto Same here............

All the cranks I have had done are welded with a TIG. Reason is with a TIG you don't have to add any material, crank stays balanced.

If you are talking about the two stock axle nuts, they have locktite on them from the factory. Apply some heat, and then try to loosen them.

I would also put a piece in to stop the steering stop from bending forward. A few full lock turns and it pushes out of the way and lets the steering stem overextend, not a good thing.

I think Ricky Stator sells one quite a bit cheaper, or you could modify your stock one to advance up to +5, or have it done if you don't feel comfortable doing it. Try this link: Ricky Stator Banshee stator

Not trying to be a no-it-all, but......... you have it backwards. The weight should be to the outside when at low RPM's.

If you want it for dragging, go for it. If you want it for duning, then you might want to rethink it. You will burn about twice as much fuel with Methanol. That will cut your dune rides in half. At Glamis I wouldn't be able to ride too far on methanol!

Definitely been a hot topic lately!

To install/remove these parts you first have to remove the gear shift lever and footpeg on the left side. Then remove the plastic stator cover. Using an impact, remove the nut on the end of the crankshaft holding the flywheel on. Then thread your flywheel puller into the flywheel until it stops, this is a left hand thread (lefty tighty - righty loosy). Then thread the bolt into the flywheel puller until it contacts the crank, then using 2 wrenches tighten the puller bolt up until flywheel pops off. Sometimes it will get tight and then you can tap puller bolt with a hammer and it will pop loose. This is a pretty simple job. After the flywheel is removed you can see the stator/timing plate. There are 3 - 10mm bolts holding it to the case, loosen these and then unplug wiring from harness. When reinstalling just reverse directions. But before putting flywheel back on you will need to rotate crankshaft until flywheel key is on top. Then you slide flywheel on crank and line up with key. Make sure it is seated fully and then torque flywheel nut to 59 ft. pounds. I can change a timing plate and flywheel in about 30 minutes.

Yea, powdercoating is the way to go. I have had many sets done, and it holds up well.

Unless you are just drag racing or running methanol, then +4 or +5 will work best for you. The billet or modified plates are more reliable than the advance keys.

That looks great. Simple too, I hadn't thought of building one that way. Anyway great work.

Totaled F*%ked up

QUOTE (Holyman) I think you could trim a little more from the END of the center hub that faces the engine cases. This wouldn't compromise the strength of the hub. Yes I cold take some weight from there but weight at the center has little or no effect. QUOTE (Holyman) I honestly suspect that you have better performance by taking as much off the center than you would the outer perimeter AND judging by my read of Joe's math, there would be much less risk of failure the more you took off the closer to the center. From reading Joe's math, and from personal experience, I feel you have this backwards. Removing weight from the outside makes more difference than from the center. QUOTE (Holyman) I would also like to add that there can be several things going on here at the same time too. An aftermarket clutch basket COULD have some effect on the response time and performance of the engine because of the weight in rotation. Things like the lock up clutches would also effect the engines ability to rev quicker since they add a significant amount of rotating weight to the engine. The use of any of this stuff has to be balanced with the performance you expect to gain. If clutch slippage is a problem and quicker revvs isn't, then the lockup clutch may be for you but if the quicker revvs is important, then the lockout might not be for you. I totally agree with you on this point. QUOTE (Holyman) I'm not bashing anyone here. I'm just seeing if this thechnology/modification can be taken to a higher level. And I'm hoping we can open a quality dialog on some possible improvments. I agree here also, I'm not trying to do any bashing either. QUOTE (Holyman) I also understand that some of the aftermarket ignitions use NO flywheel. That being the case, it would show that the stock flywheel is completely un-needed weight and perhaps much of the "performance" enhancement from the aftermarket ignition is the complete loss of the weight of the flywheel and no so much the electronic improvements. Anyone that has ever ridden a Banshee with a performance ignition that replaces the stock flywheel with the small aluminum "button" flywheel, can tell you that it is only good for drag racing. There is a loss of inertia at the lower end of the RPM's, that is not very forgiving when trying to ride at any level except WOT.

The timing advance will give over 2 more HP for a lot less money than the small extra HP you will get from the V-force. Definitely do the timing advance 1st.

I read the info the first time you posted it. First of all, both types of my lightened flywheels work much better than stock. The slotted flywheel just revs a little bit faster than the lightened flywheel without the slots. I have not tested a slotted only flywheel against a lightened flywheel without the slots. The weight difference between those two is substantial and I feel I already offer the best options in lightened flywheels. The only way I can remove more weight from the center is to machine material off the flywheel hub where the crank slides in. I feel like that area of the flywheel should be left alone for reliability, and that weight is so close to the center it wouldn't make much difference at all. Your post if I read it correctly, states "Mass located near the axis of rotation has little effect on "J" and just adds to engine weight" This explains why Removing weight from the outermost surface of the flywheel makes the most difference. Also like he said the more cylinders you have the less flywheel weight is needed, one more thing he may not have considered is that a 2 stroke has a power stroke every rotation of the crankshaft. And a Banshee with its twin cylinder 2 stroke has two powerstrokes for every rotation of the crankshaft. I am not a professor but did understand what he wrote. If a lighter flywheel didn't work better on a Banshee, then I wouldn't sell many when I let customers try them before they buy. And nobody has ever asked for their stock flywheel back in all the years I have been doing this. Later, Ron.

Exactly what Boon said, I have been lightening Banshee flywheels since 1989 and never had anyone that tried one not have it done.

I recently joined Netflix also, and have requested all the Huevos films.

I have the Barnett's and they are stiffer than the EBC's. A friend had the EBC's in and clutch still slipped until he got some Barnett's.

Ronw626

You could try Little Sahara in Waynoka OK. It is a good place to ride for sand trails and warm up dunes for Glamis. Try this link: http://www.waynoka.com/