tedd1

Already done! I started it 1st time last Saturday. I'll go to some sand tomorrow to do some plug chops. I got from Kevin: Noss head (22cc domes) Cub cylinders 68mm, Kevin's "Stage 2" porting Wiseco 68mm long rod pistons 39mm PWKs w/cables Pod filters for 39s Slingshot +8 swinger Dual Pingel From Hotrods: +4 stroke, long rod crank (couple months before I got the rest of the stuff from Kevin) From Cascade: SB inframe Shearers 22x11x8x12 paddle SLS Extremes Billett impeller and associated WP rebuild stuff From RMATV: Chain & Sprockets (Went with stock gearing till I ride it some and see what it wants) New brakes all around Spark Plugs Got it all together last weekend. It started on the 3rd kick. Warmed it up and adjusted the carbs. After sitting a day or 2, I can go out and turn on the gas, kick it once, and it idles. No fuss, no muss, it wants to run. Kevin jetted the carbs before he sent them and the slow jets and needles seem to be dead on. I think I'm a tad rich on the mains, i"ll know for sure tomorrow. He sent a few extra jets just in case. So far, I am more than pleased. I'm tickled shizless. :biggrin: :teehee: :thumbsup: Rick I also cut all the fenders off and put the stock front end back on...gotta change sig pics now...

HJR 421 cub :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Be careful! There is not much material in the bottom of those ports. If you go too deep, you will break through. Make sure you angle inboard as steep as you can. Rick

I have never run either one. I'm building a 421 from Kevin and he recommended Shearers for my build. :cool:

i sent mine back. They were bad. I ordered replacements from Cascade this evening...we'll see... Rick

I got my Shearers today-very disappointed! I am sending them back. I called who I bought them from and he is willing to do a refund. There are bare metal spots around the welds. I got to looking real close at the one I took out of the box and not only found bare metal, there are also a couple of spots in a weld that will surprise me if they don't leak. My 10 yr old fattys are in better shape! :ohmy: These pipes have got to perform, I don't know how else this guy could stay in business. :sad: I called Cascade and discussed their supposedly "custom finish" Shearers. Can anyone here recommend them? Rick

got mine from 2003limitedbanshee. any +2 rod and std rod ends will work... :biggrin:

These kits come from Inland ATV out in California. There is phone # on their ebay ad that you can call. I just put one of these kits in mine. Everything was bolt on, had no issues. Hotrods 4mil crank w/115 mil rods, and Wiseco 795 pistons. These guys at Inland were first class to deal with. I ordered last Saturday, the kit came Friday, I am riding today... :biggrin:

You might use one of >>THESE<< with that shock... :shrug:

Alrighty then...I will contact Kevin. Thanks, Rick

Stock bore, huh? Good news...that's exactly what I needed. Thanks, man.

Ok, so if I stroke it, I will have to have it re-ported? There is no other way?

I pulled my motor down today and would lke to know what pistons I have. Looking at the top of the piston with the forward arrow pointing down. There is, along the top edge, 1083L. Across the center there is 513M06400. Can anyone tell me anything about these pistons from these numbers? Thanks, Rick

So, the right side rod bearing is trashed. Do I repair/replace the crank, or stroke it? Does anyone make a short rod 4 mil stroker? Or, will I have to work on the jugs to keep the timing right? Enlighten me, please. :shrug: Thanks, Rick

Sho, I think at this point, if it was me, I would completely disassemble the throttle cable, thumb, and slides. The cable could have a kink which would make it tight. When you have it off, check that it moves freely. You can clean and lub cables, but they are cheap, buy a new one if there are any doubts. The thumb may need a bushing or at least a cleaning and lub. When you take the top off the thumb unit and get the cable out, there is a nut on top off the shaft that, when removed, will allow the thumb lever to slide out through the bottom. Clean and lub it and reassemble. (To mavguy: at this point, you can put in virtually any thumb lever you want. Get an after market extended lever :thumbsup: ) Make sure the slides move freely in the carb body when there is nothing attached to them, just the slides. If they do not, you can sometimes get away with polishing the slides and inside the carb with some ScotchBrite or some steel wool. Just be very careful that you don't remove any metal, just take away what it not supposed to be there. While you have them out, check that the needle that sticks out bottom of the slides is perfectly straight (as zach45 suggested). If one is not, replace them both. They come in the carb rebuild kits that you can get at your local dealer for under $25. Let us know what you find. Rick

Pull the tops off the carbs and check. Unscrew the cap and pull everything straight up and out of the carb body. If there is dirt on top of the slide, you may have to clean it out with carb cleaner before the slide will move freely. There should be an O ring on top of the body under the cap. There should also be a rubber grommet around the cable where it goes into the cap. If you have dirt anywhere in the carb, find out how it is getting in there and fix it!

If you got dirt and/or water in the carb, you need to check your air filter(s). You are sucking dirt around them somewhere.

Stock motor n carbs...gold fattys n k&n pods...yamalube 40:1...1200"...27.5 pilots, needle 1 down from center, 300s yr round...sputters with 310s...

I agree 100%.... :thumbsup:

I got the bumper...Tedder was a pleasure to do business with. His stuff is A+. :thumbsup:

These scooters use a dry sump oiling system. While the motor is running, most of the oil is in the tank. When you shut the motor off, most of the oil in the tank will want to drain back into the crankcase. If you fill the tank at that point, yes it will overflow. To accurately check the oil, you have to run the motor a few minutes, shut it down, then immediately check the oil with the dipstick.

If you got everything loose, check your sprocket and brake rotor. The skid plate is probably bashed in and not letting the carrier swing all the way forward.

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All the measurements are >HERE< I lost an inch and a half of sitting height on mine. I will not argue that this is the best set up for a banshee, but it is far and away better than stock!

Brian is out to Fire Academy till the end of October. :cool: