tedd1

Sorry for confusion...only put in new forks, same tranny... Rick

I put all new forks in with the new over ride.....

I put a 1-5, n down, duneable in my cub last spring. Broke a shift fork last month (Feb). Both the forks in the back were very worn, the fork next to the output shaft was broke. The single front fork in the front was still in new condition. I pulled the motor and flipped it upside down and pulled the lower case to do the repair, so it wasn't too big of a job. Anyone have any ideas why this would happen? I thought I was being careful with backloading. Apparently not careful enough. Thanks, Rick

I had the same issue. I cut the spacers down and run a stock clutch. I don't remember what the gap is supposed to be, but if it ain't what the paper says, it won't work. Rick

The treads on the adjuster are recessed down inside the tube. Look into the adjuster and you will see a space where there are no threads. Make sure your lock tight is actually getting down into the threads. Last time this happened to me, I used a japnut (a nut with plastic in the end to keep it form backing off) for a lock nut. I assembled everything and adjusted the pusher without lock tight and tightened the jap nut against the pusher. Then I pulled the pressure plate so I could get the pusher out without disassembling it. I pulled the pusher off the threaded rod being careful not to move the jap nut. I coated the threads with lock tight and screwed the pusher to the lock nut and tightened as tight as I could. Then put the adjuster back into the cliutch and reinstalled the pressure plate. So far, everything is staying put. Rick

If the top end is worn enough to have low compression, not only are the rings worn, but the cylinder and piston are likely worn as well. If there is enough slop between the piston and cylinder, the piston will rattle the skirts off, you don't want that. If you add a cool head to up the compression, it will put more stress on already worn out parts. The failure of those parts could be catastrophic. Any semi competent auto machine shop should be able to fix you up. Please do it right.... Rick

Kevin recommended and I run 39 PWKs on mine. I drag mostly, but they work well for just riding...

Specifically, a lock-up clutch and an override tranny.... :geek:

I run a duneable 1-5 neutral down I got from HJR. I generally launch in 1st at the drags and ride it pretty much like a stocker in the dunes. I would highly recommend it for anyone, not just high horsepower machines. They are very durable and shift like an automatic.

Does >>>THIS<<< help?

"....override and lockup, only way to fly." 421 cub, broke clutch loose at 65 hp and was hard to shift. Went to stiffer springs, not much help and shifting got worse. Went to street bike fibers and springs, helped a little, still slipped and inconsistent shifting. Went to lock up, no slip, but no shift. Went to dune-able 1-5 n down, IMHO "only way to fly." I can ride it like a stocker and I shaved almost a full second off my ET at the strip. If I had done this to start with, I would have saved time, money, and untold frustration. If you got 60+ hp, just do it! :biggrin:

Them Inland guys are good folks. I bought one of these kits from them last spring. I had spun a lower rod bearing on the right side and had to rebuild. I already knew I wanted to go bigger than stock, so I got one of these kits from Inland and rode it with a spacer for a while. I thought it ran very well. The kit from Inland has Wiseco pistons, Hotrods crank, and Cometic gaskets. It was all good stuff. I am not trying to say that a spacer is the way to go. It was a quick, temporary fix for me while I figured out what I wanted for a top end. Rick

Where are you located?

I had the same thing happen to me. I put the cub together and took it out once. Rode about 20 mins and it locked up. Cost to repair was under $200. I did the wrenching myself and I have decided that I did not get the ring gap right. I honed the cylinder and installed the new piston. Everything is good now. I keep the piston with the stuck rings as a paperweight to remind me to not get in hurry and double check everything. Stick with Kevin, he will get up and going in no time at minimal cost. Just be sure you know what went wrong before you put it back together. Rick

I put a 421 cub on a stock clutch and tranny. Clutch wouldn't hold and it wouldn't shift reliably. I now have slingshot and a 1-5, neutral down override. that combo took me from high to mid 5s to a consistent mid 4 et. I was crossing the finish line tapped out in 3rd gear, now I shift into 5th just before I cross. I also chase my grandkids around the dunes on this bike. The duneable override works very well for that as well. Of course, I no longer do the slammin downshifts into corners, but it does a very good job overall and, so far, has been very reliable. Rick

Try shifting a little sooner, don't wind it so tight.

I get very minor leakage where the pipes plug onto the head. I did not put silicone there, only the o rings and the pipes have been taken off and put back on several times using the same o rings. I wipe everything down and clean up the whole bike after every ride so it's not a problem. I guess I got lucky because mine fit very well. Again, no spacing anywhere. Kevin supplied all the parts for my cub. He recommended Shearers........ Rick

I got a set from Shearer and sent them back because the chrome looked very bad. There was bare metal showing at some of the welds. I went with the same pipe from Cascade. Night and day difference. I went with Shearers because Kevin recommended them. The fit was good. I had to loosen all the motor mounts and jack the motor up as high in the mounts as possible to get the clearance all the way around. No spacers were needed anywhere. I have noticed a little leakage around the flanges, but I keep it clean and that has not been an issue at all. I haven't run CPI, so I can't compare. But I am happy with the Shearers. Rick

Rule #1 :yelrotflmao:

When I spun a rod bearing, I ran a 4 mill long rod crank with a spacer plate for a while. It ran very well. Had very good bottom end and nice throttle response. I'm not saying it was the optimal setup, it was a way to keep riding until I could get the top end I wanted. I say put the 4 mill crank in while you have the cases split. Get cut domes or run a spacer with the domes you have. That will open the door to all kinds of future possibilities. Rick

I cut the center out of mine so I could run a SlingShot. There is an oring style rubber gasket behind the round cover. So far it has worked fine. No leaks at all. Rick

Get one of >>>THESE<<< kits. Paint 'em black & run a cut stock head. :ninja:

Welcome to BHQ! Did you check to see if you are getting a spark? Is it getting fuel? I know it's pretty basic, but that's where I would start. Rick

I was very pleased with the Shearers I got from Cascade. They even fit without spacers any where. They are, however, barely touching the frame at the lowest point, right where they come out of the motor.

Well, I have been mostly sand dragging lately and the 450 arms are just too wide for me. I am looking and saving for a chrome drag front end. Anyone want a good 450 set up? Rick