rubberneck

Hey justintox, so what is your current set up? You have these big dogs down in the stock location, and then what else are you running? The look of these things has been growing on me, and at this point, I'm kind of thinking of putting these in the stock location and then using the trail tech single mr16 helmet light with nothing on the bars. Do you think my RS 200 watt stator will power 3 of the 35 watt lights total and still charge the battery, or are you maxed at 2?

You can also "snug" them down with an impact. Put it on low and just give it a bump. Dont get nuts you'll overtighten them quick. Usually once you get them to seat you can then put the torque wrench on them.

Keep us updated man. I am trying to decide between aftermarket cylinders/ported stockers on my current build. Herrjugs is one of the names on my list if i decide to go stock cylinder. I hear a lot of good about him on here. Phil

Did you build the motor yourself, or did you have it built? Who did you get the parts from, or who built it. thanks.

I'd do a compression test on both and ride em both. If they both have good compression indicating that the motors are in decent shape, and they both ride/shift pretty good, I personally would buy the older one with the mods. It has some decent stuff on there and would cost you a good deal to add to the stock one.

Cool thanks man, maybe I'll shoot him a PM

So the 68mm bore cheetah will require me to get the pistons from Trinity? Or do they also use the big bore blasters? Thanks for all the info. I keep bouncing back and forth. It kind of sounds like for what I want, the cheetah may be a little too much. I just dont want to stretch the bike out to +6 on the swinger. I am really hesitant to do the override with the type of riding I like to do. I also dont want to build a 4mil stock cylinder and not be happy with the performance only to turn around and build the cheetah or cub next year anyway. Decisions Decisions. I have a little time before I have to make a move. No riding planned for a few months.

I have been working on the same decision right now. I am seriously considering the cheetah PV motor because I want a real good all around duner motor not just a drag top end motor. Check this thread I have going in the general discussion area. Might answer some of your questions. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=89314 Sounds like to me that if you have the coin the cheetah is a good choice.

Got 1 of craigslist, and 1 from a friend. When i am looking for a bike, I usually throw it out to my friends. Seems like somebody either has one or has a friend with one that I want.

Mighty vac is very handy to have around. Dad has one, I am constantly borrowing it.

Dajo, thanks for the info, that was what I was looking for. I am not so concerned with the money aspect, but your comment about parts availability is concerning. have the cheetah parts been hard to come by? the last thing i want is to put together a nice package only to not be able to use it due to waiting on parts here and there. I will not be doing anything bigger than a 4 mil stroker regardless of which cylinders i go with stock, cub,or cheetah. i dont want a monster, i dont need that. Now, as far as all the peripheral parts needed to support that motor, that is one of my concerns. Right now, i have a +2 swinger, and dont really want to go longer becuase this is a dune bike. i dont want a big long drag bike. now I realize that most people will say im stupid to do a cheetah with a + 2 swinger, but i want a dune bike not a drag bike. i figure that if i dont get too aggressive with the tires, i should be able to manage it. i just want a bike with a great overall duning package. Also one of my concerns is the trans as I know you answered some of my questions in the other thread. I dont want to worry about backloading and hurting the trans, so I am leaning away from the override. At this point this is what I am thinking, give me your opinions please. 4mil x 68 Cheetah PV motor with standard trans and whatever clutch i need to hold it. Not sure if I can run an override and use clutch to up/down shift at higher rpm. Can I? Probably go with shearer pipes, and as far as carbs I have been considering lectrons. My buddy has some 38mm lectrons (I think that is the size) on his 7milx 68mm bore stock cylinder bike, and he likes them because they are really easy to tune the main circuit with altitude/weather changes or PWK's What do you think? I currently have some trinity stage 4 pipes, that if they would perform ok on the above motor, I wouldn't mind running simply for the fact they are stainless and I ride a lot at the beach. What do you think? they seem to work well on my buddies RZ motor shee. As far as the intakes, if i do the cheetah obviously i would need to purchase new on all of that. Im ok with that, I can put all of my shit on my brothers shee. My loss his gain little fucker. Thanks for all the info, guys, keep it coming. I appreciate/respect all opinions. Phil EDIT: I forgot one of my questions. At what point do straight cut gears become necessary? Do you think I would be ok on a4mil/68 cheetah on race gas with oem or will i need the straights? What about trans, will i need a billet 2nd. Like i said i dont drag much just dune the shit out of it. thanks

i'll check that out man, thanks for the link. does he only do complete builds, or will he sell me the parts? I really want to build it myself. i have never payed anybody to build anything for me, and i want to tinker with this baby myself.

What kind of heims do the fullflights come with. My ASR's came with some cheap chinese pieces of shit. I am assuming based on the price of the full flights, they come with similar cheapos. When my heims get sloppy, I plan on replacing them all with some good ones like aurora or the like.

Get the clamp area of the filter and the carb clean, then put some hairspray on them. Spray a bunch of hairspray in a small glass, and use your finger to wipe some of it on the clamp area inside the filter. It will help to glue them on. We do this with intercooler boots when running high boost on my cummins. It will make it more of a challenge to get them off however.

I wear the ARC backcountry foul weather gloves. I used them last weekend, and in 45 degree weather they were uncomfortably warm. My hands were sweating. So I would say they would work well in colder weather. So far I have liked all the ARC gear I got from rockymountain.

Thanks bigred. So do you have an opinion on the value of the cheetah. Cost aside, do the powervalves make a significant difference? I realize that if i go the cheetah route, I need new reeds manifolds etc etc. But what the hell. I don't mind spending the dough if you can feel the difference.

Ok, so the backloading will tear up the shift forks on the override trans. Got it. Now on the standard trans, I shouldn't have this problem right. The shift forks dont really play a role in holding it in gear in a standard trans right? Isn't it the way the dogs are shaped that holds the trans in gear under backload? (as well as normal load too) Thanks.

Ok, I know that bang for the buck, you cant beat the Cubs for horsepower. Now my question is why dont I see many guys on here with Cheetahs? Is it simply the cost, or do they not really perform that much better than a Cub. I am building a dune bike, and it seems as though the cheetah would be ideal for that situation due to the powervalves. I guess the real question, is how much difference do the powervalves make? Has anybody had both and care to share some info? Based on the little I have searched on the Cheetahs, it would seem that it would cost about double what a Cub would. Does that sound about right? Also, where is the best place to get Cheetah cylinders? I see trinity advertising them all the time, but would rather chop off my left nut than buy from them. Does FAST carry the cheetah? I didn't see it on their site. I want to gather as much info as I can before I start calling them. I know they are busy. Based on how many people are so happy with their work, I will most likely be buying from them. Last I heard, they weren't taking any port work because they are so busy, so I have been thinking more and more about the bolt on cylinder option. Thanks for any info. PHil

Just to clarify, dajo, when you say it wont last long, I assume you mean wont last if clutchless shifted correct? If I understand the way the override works, it has to do with modifying the engagement lugs on the side of the gears correct? An override doesnt' make the tranny stronger, only allows it to live under clutchless shifting right. I mean if I were to use the RZ forks, put the shift drum on a bearing as above an use the modded shift star, the trans should be very reliable even under high horsepower right? Or, no? At this point, I plan to do the stock cylinder 4mil, but you never know, I might decide I want a CUB, or even a Cheetah down the line. I would assume I should still be OK to run the non override trans even at the higher horsepower, or will I be wasting my time? I understand I wont be able to bang gears as easily as the guy with the override, but then again I wont have to worry at all about backloading the trans and tearing it up either. Sorry if I am beating a dead horse. I just like to have all the info before I decide which way to go.

This is good info. I just happen to know where an RZ bottom end is. I might go make an offer on it and see if I can get the forks out of it. Thanks for the knowledge Firehead greatly appreciated. So to summarize, for kick ass shifting (short of an override) I should get the shift drum with the bearing on it like the picture above. Some RZ shift forks, and use my modded shift star/pro-shift kit. I see that Jeff from FAST mods the shift shafts. is this a good idea with my shift star/shift kit, or is it too much. I dont want to do too many mods and go backwards if you know what I mean. Thanks Phil

Yeah, see this is what I am concerned about. You see, when my buddies and I "Dune," it is more like a race through the hills. LOL We really enjoy hauling ass in and out of the big rollers and I do find myself downshifting hard in the turns just the way you are describing. I need to decide what to do. Since I have now stretched and widened this bike and now will be adding some significant HP, this bike is not really suitable for the dirt trails that I like riding. With that in mind I am considering buying a 450 for the dirt and dedicating my banshee to the sand 100% If i get the 450, I wont be AS concerned with reliablity and will probably do the override for shits and giggles. At least I would have the 450 to play with if I have problems with the banshee. To now I have been hesitant to get too exotic fearing that i would drive 9 hours to my favorite dunes only to have the shee break after a day or 2. If i have the spare bike, I might as well go balls deep into the shee with the goodies. Lots of decisions. thanks for your time guys.

Firehead, Please elaborate if you would. Who does this, or is this some magic that you did yourself. I am looking to do everything I can when I go through this thing.

With that much fuel, the B1 is maxxed, I can put 1600 on the pyro easy in a 0-100 mph pull through the gears. The B1 is fun for goofing around, but really sucks for towing heavy to be honest. I just yanked my Mach 4.5 injectors and the B1 off and put in an old set of DD2's I had laying around and put the stock hx35 back on. It tows much better like this. I have decided to quit beating on the truck and use it for what I originally bought it for, getting my shit to the sand. No I'm not on DTR. I run around on the TDR alot and also competition-diesel. Haven't been hanging out much on the diesel sites lately, as I have been all obsessed with my Banshee. I go in cycles. LOL I have 2 95 12 valve 4x4s lying around. They will be my next projects. Going to put a 69-72 chevy long bed fleet side body on 1 of them.

So if I dont decide to do the override, I want to do as much as i can to make her shift as well as possible. I already have the modded shift star and also a shift pro (not installed yet). I have seen it mentioned on here, I believe it was by bigred about putting bearings on the shift drum. How is this mod done? What bearings are you using. Do I need to machine the drum or the cases or both? I Have a machine shop, so with instructions and the bearing #s could i do this myself. Also what does side cutting the gears do. How is this done. Thanks.

Ok, if this problem started with the additon of a higher flowing filter, then you are most likely lean. Pull the jets and find out exactly what you have in there and report back here. Chances are somebody has your exact setup and can give you guidance.