rubberneck

With lid off, uni clamp on in stock box, I had 300 mains 4th notch on toomey needles with 25 pilots, air screws 1.5 turns out ran great at sea level. Went to K*N pods and had to go to 340 mains with clip on 2nd position and 25 pilots 1 turn out. Plug chop looked great bike ran great. I couldn't believe the difference the pods made on jetting. Just my experience.

I wish somebody would try this throttle and report back. I am really interested. The deal is my bike had one of those cascade extended thumb levers on it when i bought it. I hated it. it was too long, and akward. I found myself pushing it half way down the length with my thumb. I went back to stock and it is way better. i just want to make sure this isn't the same problem.. It sure looks nice I may just try it.

Preach on brother. That place is very friendly with my Visa card. LOL Hey, how much is the fine if you get caught?? I am going there in june, but that will be the first time in 10 years. I dont really want to drop 330 bones on silencers if i dont have to. I would think those silencers should help alot if for nothing else that they direct the sound down and not out. I think i am going to chance it and pay the fine if it is less than those silencers. If i start going there more often i will pick some up, i dont want the hassle or give the cops any reason to start looking.

1st off, the impeler is a good idea just for security sake, so im not discougaging that. But, its not going to fix an overheat problem. IMHO. I didnt notice a bit of cooling performance difference on my bike. (i have a gauge) I just have the piece of mind it wont break and leave my ass in the dunes. Put the water pump cover back on and pressure test the system. I was having similar issues on my brothers bike, and i thought the drip was coming from the overflow tube. Thing is, we checked the bike with a handheld infrared temp guage and it wasnt hot, just dripping. so I pressure tested it when we got home and found out that the burp tube from the top of the head to the radiator was leaking a bit when under pressure and it was dripping down running over and running down the overflow tube making it look like it was coming from the tube. PUt a new clamp on her and so far so good. If you decide to do the impelar, you will need, the impelar, a clutch cover gasket, a water pump cover gastket at a minimum. FWIW, on both of my bikes, i replaced the plastic drive gear, and c-clip that holds the gear on. On my bike the c-clip was worn half way through. Only another 10 bucks or so for both pieces and now you will have all new parts in the cooling system. I did not have to replace the water pump seal or bearing, they were in good shape. Just put some lube on the seal and be carefull when you put the impelar in. You dont want to tear that seal if it is still good. Oh yeah, the other thing, order the o-ring that goes on the water pipe that seals on the clutch cover. Both of my bikes, that oring was in sad shape. If it leaks, you can get coolant in the tranny.

Sweet, I might be intereseted in a +2 for my brothers bike. Question, the arm in the pic above looks to have additional bracing in it compared to the one on your site. Is that special order? If I wanted a +2 with the bracing and skid plate mounts, what is the lead time to get one roughly? thanks man.

No dont sell it man, you'll get this fixed. you've put a lot of time into that bike, and the pics you posted looked sweet. A year from now you will be riding that bitch and wont even remember this shit.

Where is the puking emoticon???

NO NO man, I said RAISE the needle (lower clip postiton from blunt end) My thought is you are way lean in the middle with a 250 and the 2nd position from blunt. Try the 4th postition from blunt and see how it goes.

Yes, he outsources the swingarms and steering stems and many of his products. He may even outsource the a-arms from another manufacture. I dont know that. Bottom line if a company is going to sell a product, produced by them or not, they should stand behind it. They just keep blowing me off and standing behind the statement that "weve sold a lot of those and never had that problem" That is a bullshit answer. Nothing was bent on my bike and I proved that by putting the arm on 2 other bikes. There is a problem in the arm and they wont take it back. YOu can cheer lead for them all you want, but bottom line, they dropped the ball in this situation. The way i see it they screwed me out of 650 bucks, and I hope to cost them as much money in sales as i can. Let me ask you this do you or anybody you know have a swinger from amstar. Because i would love for you to take off the chain and clamp a straight edge on the inside of the rear sprocket and then tell me how it lines up with the countershaft sprocket. I wold be willing to bet that most guys would never even check. I did and it isn't right. whatever, i can rant all day, im not going to change your opinion of them, thats fine. Hopefully i can prevent another member who may read this from having the same headache i am having right now. As far as the a-arm went, i never called because it was a simple fix and i needed the bike put together for the weekend.. I only mentioned it now because you keep saying how great their stuff is and i have had a different experience. And you know what, all companies have problems. Things get made wrong, screwed up, whatever. I ge that. Its a reality called the human factor. To me the mark of a good company isn't how they handle themselves when everything is working perfect, its how they handle themselves when there is a problem.

Dont worry bro, you might be 6 hrs from pismo, but you aint missing shit. you are really close to heaven. GLAMIS. If i live inSD, i would never ride any where else. LOL unfortunately for me, pismo is 4 hrs, dumont 8 and glamis 10, so i go to pismo. I can remember before the tree huggers got their faggy hands on the place. No fences and some kick ass duning. Oh well the good old days

I do not know who makes their a-arms. That is one of the products that the manufacture told me he does not make. He has vowed to make the situation right no matter what. I am not going to publicly say anymore about the manufacture at this point. If he does what he says and makes it right, i will be sure to tell everybody. Conversly if the situation does not work out i will let you know also. My bitch with ASR is that it has been almost 4 months now and I have spent hours and hours dealing with this. Everytime i call i get no where. Oh yeah, i also have their +2+1 a-arms and yes they work great. When i got them however, where the lower arm comes into the frame, the welder had gotten too hot and burned a big bur into the area where the bushing rides. The idiot that pressed the bushings in didn't bother to look and whacked the bushing in anyway and it collapsed. I couldn't get the a-arm bolt in and when i looked inside i realized what had happened. I knocked the damaged bushing out, ground out the burr with a pencil grinder and then had to replace the bushing. Luckily i had put new bushings in my stockers not long before I replaced them or i would have had to come up with one. Sorry, but in my book you should look somewhere else. I purchased from them because a couple of members on here were talking them up. Well, Im here now to give the other side. They suck and I hope I can cost them as much business as possible.

Are the carbs in sync? Try rasing the needle a notch or two and see if it helps (lower the clip)

This is what i do, grab each front tire and shake back and forth/front to back. You are looking for play/clunks. this can indicate bad wheel bearings/ball joints/ tie rod ends or a-arm bushings. wiggle the bars back and forth, front to back checking for play in the steering stem. If you feel any play, try to look and see where its coming from. Inspect the frame looking for any obvious bends/ big dents. Grab the rear grab bar and pick up. if it clunks at the top, you could have worn cradle/link or shock bushings. push back and forth and see if there is any play in the swingarm/frame. Put it up on blocks and turn the rear tires make sure everything is free, no clunks. Inspect the condition of the chain sprockets/rollers guides. Look for damage to the engine cases around the front sprocket indicating a thrown chain at one time. Pull the dipstick and smear some oil on a clean white surface or your fingers. If it is milky, it could indicate water in the oil. If it is gray it probably has a wasted clutch. Metal flakes, could be trans clutch anything. If it is dark and nasty, probably hasnt had the best maintenance. Check for any obvious oil/water leaks. Now go ride it. run it through the gears, make sure it shifts nice. Come to a stop with the clutch pulled in and rev the bike in first gear. If it tries to creep forward, clutch is dragging, could be a grooved up clutch basket. If everything is looking pretty good by this point, shut it down, pull both plugs out and do a compression test. With both plugs out of machine, give it full throttle and kick the living hell out of it untill the compression guage stops rising. At sea level you want to see 120-130 PSI on a fresh top end. You shouldnt see more than a 5 psi diff from cylinder to cylinder either. Keep in mind that any couple of these problems arent' really that big of a deal, and are to be expected on a used bike, just factor the cost of repair in when/if you make an offer. In my area, a 2000-2500 dollar bike is probably going to have a lot of the above problems. A pretty nice stockish bike goes for 3000-3500.

Stick welder and a file. Serious bummer man.

Cool, sounds like we will have just about identical set ups. Keep us posted on the progress.

SWEET, thats what i wanted to hear

Leave em. I like the dumbo ears.

Sweet man, keep me posted. What domes did you go with? What carbs you running? You running gas or alky? Which pipes? I am pretty excited.

So this in not normal right? I just ordered A black Fast head with my new motor, I dont want it to turn purple, id rather change to natural aluminum if that is the case.

I will definitely be there another time or 2 before the end of summer. Going in middle of march, but will be on the ATC 250r, cause i dont think my new CUB will be ready. Would love to plan something around May to break it in and get it jetted before my trip to oregon in june.

How do you tell when it starts breaking down?

OOPs, looks like somebody at the post office is enojoying some banshee parts. Hope the guy gets in touch with you. Whats the turn around if i wanted to get my clutch case polished?? thanks

That would be really cool, i printed that whole post out before the first time i tore into my bike. It was nice to see everything in real pics before jumping in. Maybe this time we can even keep all the ass clowns out of the post with their bitchy little comments about not cleaning cases and arguing about the best way to hold the rods and shit.

I have spent quite a bit of time on the yfz450 and a honda 450. I like the suspension on the yfz, I liked the tranny and brakes on the honda a lot more. will probably be getting the yfz though as i have so many tires that will fit the yamaha. I really like how light it feels compared to the banshee, especially in the tight rough stuff. dont think you can go wrong with any of them. Would love to spend some time on the new KTM. If money wasn't an issue, i would probably get the 525

that kid looks like brad pitt compared to the raptor shee plastics. Super Fugly