rubberneck

Here is my 01 Cummins 6 speed: Mods: 160Hp injectors, Mads electronics Smarty, Edge Drag comp, B1 turbo, 4" exhaust, O-ringed head, AFE intake, Southbend twin disc clutch, Mag HY-tecs, BD short throw shifter, BD remote mount exhaust brake, BD 2-low kit, Kilby engine driven air compressor, Transferflow tank/toolbox, B&W turnover with companion, 2.5 inch class V hitch, SPA boost/pyro and fuel press/water temp gauges. Plus a whole lot more little junk.

HMMM. Just found some more info, my previous elevation might be wrong. Looks like the elvation is only 700-1200 feet, so considering the cold weather, I may throw some 190's in there before I leave.

Ok, so last time I rode my bike it was at Pismo. I was running 280 mains and it ran great. Obviously elevation is sea level, and temps were 60's to mid 70's. Now I am going to dumont in a few days, and according to info i got on the net, elevation there is about 2300 feet. Normally I would go down 1 jet size for a 2000 foot increase in elevation right? However, according to weather.com, it is going to be in the 40's - 50's during the days. So i was thinking about leaving jetting alone and see how shee runs. what do you guys think? Higher elevation but colder temps, should offset each other right? thanks

50:1 with either belray, or redline. I have been running the redline lately and I like it. Available in the shop right down the street and it smells good.

Basically same thing I did, but I ran wires down frame the back of the bike and put the battery in the spot where the tool kit goes. Wrap it in a little foam and it stays put really nice in there and is really easy to get to to change the battery

I set my low temp warning at 200 and my overheat at 220. I dont think you would do any damage until higher than that, but that makes me pay attention soon enough that I can get her shut down or turned into the wind.

Cool, thanks man, yeah, I bet if i ran it for just a short time, it would stretch enough to get the other 1/2 link off and go to a regular master link. I threw my old pretty worn chain on there just to look at it and it would work as is with ease. I am glad I put the new chain on and checked before i cut it. Had I just counted links to match up with the old one, it would have been too short. If the stealership doesn't have a 1/2 link I will just change sprocket sizes, only need it to work for this trip thanks.

Ok so after I realized my new +2 swinger was built wrong (see other thread ) I put stocker back on, and tried to install my new chain and sprockets. I had planned on running 14/43 gearing because i wanted to gear down a hair from stock. Well, I cant get enough adjustment out of the stock carrier to tighten the chain. I have seen 1/2 links in other applications, but never paid attention on a bike and never needed one. I have always had honda's before this and have never had a problem with adjustment. Does anybody have a 1/2 link, are they ok to run? I may just run by the local stealership tommorrow morning and pick up a 41 tooth sprocket and cut a couple of links out of the chain to get me through this trip. I know 14/41 will tighten up no problems cause that is stock and that is what i had. I cant believe they designed this bike where you can't cut a 2 links out and have enough adjustment to get the chain right. The chain adjustment was 1 of the main reasons I went to the aftermarket swinger in the first place, too bad that bit me in the ass. LOL Any suggestions?

Update, got the stock swinger and carrier put back on today and everything lines up spot on. Will be contacting swinger manufacture after x-mass to arrange replacement.

Yeah, all the settings are correct. i think my bike may have had a really noisy electrical system. I tried running resistor plugs, no effect. Tach just seems to suck. I tried hooking it up every way suggested, and shielding the signal wire. Just doesn't seem to work very well, but like I said, I really dont care. I just replaced the stator and regulator, and i have not tried hooking back up to the shees elec system. If I were to start over, I would probably just do a plain ol temp guage and be done. The odometer feature is neat, but i could live without it. I do like being able to monitor temps though and the programable idiot lights are a nice feature. I am going to make a bracket similar to yours, only one that will allow me to put 2 trail tech light up there also.

I had heard about the overfill trick to help prevent the clutch ball weld disaster, so i put a full 2 quarts in mine last time and it has been fine.

Wow, was that a known builder, or some backyard hilljack. You would think somebody putting together a motor the caliber of a twister would have a clue, but guess not. Unless the rest of us are all clueless and that is a new horsepower secret

Man, its been so long since Ive been to glamis, I cant remember how long of a ride that is. I do definitely notice that my shee (stock with bolt-ons only) drinks way more than my old 250r. Now I am the first person to be looking for fuel in our group (all 250r's and 4 pokes) I can tell you that according to my Vapor, I need fuel at about 30 miles while duning hard. I too have been considering one of the UGLY tanks. Just haven't been able to convince myself that the look is worth the benefit. LOL

As said, you want the temp sensor in the return line that way you are reading the hottest water temp in the system. I originally tapped into the power system at the plug that leads to the handlebar mounted switches. I pulled the pin out of the connector that is the power feed to the headlights and soldered a small wire to the pin that i then ran to the vapor. You also need to run one wire from the coil to the vapor to pick up the tachometer sensor. I had nothing but problems with the tachometer going crazy when i tried to use the shees electrical system, so i mounted a small hobby style battery where the stock tool kit would ride. Tach still isn't great, but I never use it anyway, cant look at it and ride IMHO. Mostly I like the odometer and the temp warning lights. Definitely use the magnetic bolt they supply, and you will need to either tweek the "C" bracket they send or drill your dust covers to accept the sensor.. As supplied, the "C" bracket will not line up with the bolt holes on the banshee spindle, but you can "massage" it into working. LOL oh yean, the handlbar mount they supply is shitty, mine broke from the vibration on the first trip out, never hit anything, it just cracked in 2. I am making an aluminum mount that will attach to my handlebar risers before my next ride. Hope this helps a little

wesw, yes, the tube that the bearings ride on and the bolt goes through is in place. the endcaps each have 1 thrust washer just like it was on with the stock swinger. I am at this point really leaning toward the swinger being built incorrectly, but i wont know for sure until I get it back off and compare it to the stocker and reinstall the stocker to verify. I would think if my chassis was bent, then the rear sprocket would be "angled" out of alignment for a lack of a better term. The thing is they aren't crooked, they just aren't inline. When you clamp a straght edge on the front and rear sprockets, they are parallel to each other, just a good 1/2 " or so offset from each other. I am just wondering if the swinger was put in the welding jig wrong or something. Oh well, I will keep you posted with what I find. Im just scrambling to try and figure out how I can get the bike together with my stocker to make it to my trip in time. I need to get my stock carrier and what not back from my bro tomorrow to hopefully salvage my trip. This was going to be my first trip to dumont, and im going to be really bumbed if I cant go.

Thanks for the reply, but I dont thing there is any way to put it on backwards. That would make the chain like 2 inches off wouldn't it?

Like I said before, I never checked the stock arm and carrier but find it hard to believe it was this far off, I would think I would have been smoking chains left and right. I dont have any pics, but to give a little more description, If i place a framing square on the inside edge of the rear sprocket and point it forward, it aims at about the middle of the countershaft sprocket nut that holds the front sprocket on. Snopczynski, your comments were the first thing that popped in to my head, so I double checked and the drive hub is definitely seated and the lock nut is torqued. Sooo, I am at the point that either the new arm or the bike is tweaked. It is a durablue axle, stock sprocket hub, and at this point all I guess I can do is put the stock stuff back on to see if it lines up better. Hmmm, yeah, I didn't think I should have to mess with the motor to get the sprockets to line up. I was just hoping i was missing something simple and it would pop into somebody's head. This thing has me frustrated, I was supposed to leave the 26th for 6 days in Dumont, it looks like that is slowly being crushed. Dang, Im so stinking bummed right now. I have to leave for work soon (graves), I am going to tear it back down tomorrow am and see what I can find.

Ok, I got my new +2 roundhouse swinger installed, and noticed an issue when I went to put on the chain. It does not appear that the front and rear sprockets are aligned. When i put a straight edge on the front sprocket, it aims about 1/2 to 3/4 inch too far toward the center of the bike back at the bearing carrier. I dont think my sprockets or chain are too long for the world with that much misalignment. Not to mention I dont want to join the thrown chaiin club. Can the motor mounts on a shee be adjusted? Reason I ask is that I was looking at my shee and the cases appear to be centered between the mounting brackets on the frame at the rear mount. However on my brothers bike, the motor is all the way to the left (if looking from rear). I believe that if i could get my motor sitting like his, the sprockets would be damn close. Thing is, I removed the front brackets and lower struts and I can not for the life of me get the motor to slide over like his sits. Are the rubber mounts in the rear location pressed into the cases? Do I need to pull the motor completely out of the frame and knock the mounts over in the case a bit? I am lost here. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Oh yeah, and the first question I know everybody is going to ask is was it that way with the stock swinger, and the answer unfortunatley is I dont know. The chain and sprockets were pretty shot, and I honestly didn't pay that much attention. Not to mention all the wiggle room there is in the shitty stock adjustment, somebody at one time or another may have just adjusted the rear sprocket crooked to meet the front for all I know. PS. bear with me, I tried to make this as clear as I could, but ive been awake now for 24 hours. LOL thanks Phil

I would be proud to be riding any one of those.

Thanks again for the tips guys. It worked out great. No wrinkles, cover is nice and straight, and looks pretty good if i do say so myself. I was very impressed with how well the Cascade cover fit. The dryer trick was the key. Once the cover was warm, it stretched right in to place and I was able to get her secured. Anybody thinking about doing a cover job themselves, dont think twice, it is pretty easy, just take your time.

Awesome, thank you. I didnt know where to start, that will help a lot. The dryer tip makes perfect sense, and i never would have thought about it. Thanks so much, going to go for broke in the morning. thanks again. Phil

Well the title pretty much wraps it up. I bought a new seat cover from cascade for my brothers bike. I could have sent the seat to them to install for free, but im kind of pinched for time, and i figured i would give it a shot myself. I have a staple gun, and it appears the cover that is on there is just stapled on. Never done a seat before, so looking for hints. thanks.

I don't want to speak for him, because I don't know what kind of arrangement you have with him. He told me last week that he is pretty swamped right now and about 5 weeks out for porting. Don't know if it would be shorter/longer for a complete build. I am going to finish the sand season out on my current motor and then tear down when it gets hot next year. phil

I'd rather beg for forgiveness then ask for permission. LOL

man, thats a bummer to hear. So far they have been really cool on the phone everytime I have talked with them. Hopefully I wont ever need to warranty anything, but If i do I hope they wont give me a run around. Interesting they had powdercoater isues back with you. I think I would get a new powdercoater if it has been going on for this long. They told me I should have my swinger 1st of next week. Hope I do, cause I'm running out of time to get bike put back together, adjusted and tested before christmass trip. If I dont get it next week, I might start making a little noise. I ordered 10-30, and it was only supposed to take 2-3 weeks. I got the front a-arms in about 2.5 weeks.