rubberneck

Firehead, Please elaborate if you would. Who does this, or is this some magic that you did yourself. I am looking to do everything I can when I go through this thing.

With that much fuel, the B1 is maxxed, I can put 1600 on the pyro easy in a 0-100 mph pull through the gears. The B1 is fun for goofing around, but really sucks for towing heavy to be honest. I just yanked my Mach 4.5 injectors and the B1 off and put in an old set of DD2's I had laying around and put the stock hx35 back on. It tows much better like this. I have decided to quit beating on the truck and use it for what I originally bought it for, getting my shit to the sand. No I'm not on DTR. I run around on the TDR alot and also competition-diesel. Haven't been hanging out much on the diesel sites lately, as I have been all obsessed with my Banshee. I go in cycles. LOL I have 2 95 12 valve 4x4s lying around. They will be my next projects. Going to put a 69-72 chevy long bed fleet side body on 1 of them.

So if I dont decide to do the override, I want to do as much as i can to make her shift as well as possible. I already have the modded shift star and also a shift pro (not installed yet). I have seen it mentioned on here, I believe it was by bigred about putting bearings on the shift drum. How is this mod done? What bearings are you using. Do I need to machine the drum or the cases or both? I Have a machine shop, so with instructions and the bearing #s could i do this myself. Also what does side cutting the gears do. How is this done. Thanks.

Ok, if this problem started with the additon of a higher flowing filter, then you are most likely lean. Pull the jets and find out exactly what you have in there and report back here. Chances are somebody has your exact setup and can give you guidance.

Hmmm, now I really dont know what to do. I really like climbing hills too, and love it when you get yourself stuck down in a hole and have to work to get it out. You know what I mean, working around obstacles, up shift down shift, clutching it. I just think that is fun. i dont want to get down in a hole and blow the trans up just for quicker shifts. i dont think I will be making enough power at my current plans to NEED a lockup. I just though the clutchless shifting would be the shit. I am going to start making a shopping list and then shopping around for who i want to do my port work. I want to build this thing myself though. thanks for the opinions guys you rock.

Well, It kind of depends, we need a little more info. I dont know if I can describe this, but I'll try. If it is kind of a gurgly bogging hesitation, then it is probably rich. When mine was lean, it would snap and pop, and fell on its face really hard. You need to be carefull though, in my experience with these things, they will run really well about 2-3 jet sizes too lean, so you need to check your plugs. Get your idle as good as you can with the air bleeds and check to see how many turns out they are. Then do a full throttle plug chop to get the mains dialed in. then you can start horsing with the needle to bring it all together. Takes some time, but not really that bad. Also what throttle postion is the hesitation? if it is in the 1/4 -3/4 throttle range, a needle adjustment may fix the problem.

I will let you know, I have not had a chance to ride the bike since dropping the needles a click. I do not have a set of stock needles as the bike came with the Toomey stuff installed, but if I cant fix the midrange I might pick a set of stockers up and try them. I will report back.

Ok, so I blew the bitch up this weekend, haven't had a chance to tear down yet, but left spark plug is full of melted aluminum. Bike has been jetted the same for 6 years, but based on the fact she melted, I would assume lean (yeah, I know I should have done a plug check) I was at Pismo and it got cold. Should have known, she was running too good if you know what i mean. Anyway, So now that I am going to be doing a full rebuild, I am looking at all my options. I rarely drag race, just dune. Although, I have never really had a bike that was quick enough to really be a drag racer, so if I actually build some power, I might do it more. Anyway, I am considering a duneable override. What is the life expectancy of one of these things? Are they as reliable as a stock trans. I really like the idea of the override, but am not really willing to give up reliablility to get one. I am tired of going on week long trips and working on shit. I just want to build a really strong duning bike that I can load in the trailer and take to the sand and not be wrenching the whole time. I am a maintenace fanatic, and dont mind working on my bike at all, I just dont want to do it WHILE on vacation, you guys get my drift. Oh, yeah, my current plan is probably a stock cylinder 4mil motor. Thinking shearer inframes and 33 or 35 PWK's. I only have a +2 swinger, and am really happy with the way the bike handles, so I dont really want to stretch it way out and do a CUB. So based on the power that I will probably be making, is the override worth it for me?? thanks Phil

Justintoxicated, (or any of you guys) Have you ever seen the trail tech 4" HID's? How do they compare. I am going to go HID, just trying to decide which ones to get. The ones in the above pics are a little large for my taste. Been thinking of 2 of the 4" trail techs in the stock postion and maybe one of the original trail tech HID's on the bars. What do you think?

I'd sell my soul for a suspensions umlimited mid engine 2 seater. I want either a turbo honda v6 or a subaru though. I want a really light and nimble car. Someday. just need to convince the wife its a good idea.

Just another follow up, so people that are installing different mods can see the progression. I took my brothers bike which had the T5 kit. Pipes, uni replacement filter with box vents and jets/needles etc. We ditched the box and put on K&N pods with outerwears. We went to Pismo beach and it was about 60 degrees out. Started at 320 mains and turned the air bleeds to 1 turn out. Plug chop was too narrow and light. Went to 340 mains and found the best idle at 0.75 turns out on 25 pilots. So pretty sure mains and pilots are good for those conditions. Bike got a little sluggish in the 1/4 to 1/2 throttle range and a little slow to come up on the powerband, so I'm going to change the clip to the 3rd position from the blunt end on the Toomey needles and I think we will be rockin. So just as a recap, I ended up having to go 6 sizes larger on the mains, and drop the needle 1 position to compensate for the addition of the K&Ns. I never in a million years would have guessed you would have to add that much fuel for air cleaners.

Totally depends on where you ride. If all you do is sand get the pods. If you ever ride mud/wet areas, keep the box and do the prodesign.

Ditto on the above. I have 2 shees. Both T5's, Vforce reeds, +4 timing. One has K&N pods, the other UNI stock replacement. Soon both to have cool heads with 20cc domes. You will not believe it is the same bike.

Kick ass bike man. How do you like the CUB for duning? I keep going back and forth on what I want to do. Can't decide between a 421 cub, or a 4mil stock jug duner motor. Do you have an override trans??

Cascade innovations carries the OEM ones. That is where I got mine. try http://webforce.nwrain.net/founder/cascade_innovations/ look under the genuine banshee parts section

Just a follow up, FWIW. Today, I installed K&N pods on my brothers bike and I had to go up 4 jet sizes from air box with UNI foam filter/no lid, to the Pods. I was really surprised because i figured with no lid, the UNI wouldn't flow that much less, but man the K&N's move some air.

Have you checked for an air leak?

Before I got my ricky stator adjustable plate, I modified my stocker on the mill. I dont think you can get more than about 5 degrees on a modified stocker. I cut mine 4 degrees with a rotary table. Each 1mm or 40 thousanths of an inch is roughly 1 degree of timing, so you can get an idea where your timing is. FWIW

Removing TORS will have no effect on jetting, I believe that for the K&N most would recomend to start about 4 sizes larger on the mains and adjusting the air screws. Its been a long time since i saw a stock bike, LOL but I believe they have 200 mains in them. So you may want to get some 240 mains in there and check the plugs.

It will run without a regulator no problem, however you need to check something out. When we picked up my brothers banshee, it had no spark. I traced it down to the fact that they had removed the regulator and had not hooked the ground wire back up to the frame. It is a black wire with a ring on it and you need to make sure and hook it to the frame. On my bike, it was connected by one of the bolts that holds the regulator on, so that is how I hooked his back up (replaced regulator cause he needs lights) You could just put the bolt back in the frame without the regulator though.

Stock banshee stator will only push 70 watts of headlights. As long as you get lights that are 35watts each you should be ok. The ricky stator duner kit I have is just 2 piaa fog lights I believe with their mount kit. I ran it with 35w bulbs for awhile, but wanted more light, so i just put 50w bulbs in and got 2 50w trail techs for the bars. Of course I put in a 200w stator to push it all. FWIW, I also put in a ricky stator flywheel.

Yeah, unfortunately not worth what its worth if you know what I mean. I dont' know where you are at, but I saw a 421 cub banshee that looked pretty clean on craigs list in Norther Cal for 5500. I was looking for a bike for my bro and that thing kept calling my name. I kept thinking about selling my bike to my bro and buying it, just couldn't scrape the cash a the time. FWIW it was on there for a while at that price too. May still be, haven't checked in a while. Phil

Thanks for the info man. I was just searching around for different perches and levers but there are so many, I wasn't sure which one to go with. I will check those out. One thing for sure is the Sunline ones that were on there are big pieces of shit.

Well I got it sorted out today. Come to find out it was a combination of things. First I tried putting my stock perch and lever on my brothers bike, and it made a big difference. Apparently the sunline piece of shit that was on there must have the wrong pull geometry or something cause like I said before it was unrideable, and that was no exageration. With the stock lever It was rideable, but still extremely stiff. Maybe if we would have had an EZ pull lever system it would be ok, but I am out of time. So I yanked the cover back off and replaced 3 of the cascade springs with the stockers. After alll of this, it is pretty good now. It still is considerably stiffer pull than stock but manageable. So FYI to anyone out there, the cascade clutch is one serious mutha. If it hooks up as hard as it is to pull with all 6 HD springs, it should hold some serious HP. jbooker82, thanks for the info. Like you said, it probably would have been fine with their fibers and steels with all stock springs, but this will give us some wiggle room to add power now. LOL Im just glad it all worked out. Now all I have to do is put the sprocket and chain on and wire up the headlights, and we are set to go to PISMO.

Ok, so my brother bought a 2000 banshee that needed a bunch of work. We got it for a good price so it was worth it. It had T5's, K&N pods and I am going to advance the stator plate 4 degrees. That is basically it powerwise. The most major problem it had was that the clutch was shot. No worries, not that big of a deal. Well I was ordering a bunch of stuff from Cascade for my bike, so I bought one of their Heavy Duty Clutch kits and a Motion Pro terminator clutch cable from them. I got them installed today, and holy shit. I have never felt a clutch so damn stiff in my life. I'm 5-11 195 and it takes just about everything my left hand has to disengage that bitch. My brother is a little guy, no way this thing is going to cut it. Does this sound right?? I would say the clutch pull is easily double what it is on my bike which the previous owner told me was a heavy duty clutch (didn't know what brand) My plan as of now is to pull the cover back off tomorrow and put 3 of the stock springs back in to see if that makes it bearable for our pismo trip next week. The bike has a Sunline clutch perch and lever on it and the pull felt good stock, of course the stocker was slipping. I wouldn't mind it a little stiffer than before to prevent future clutch slippage, but this thing is rediculous. Do you think that putting 3 of the stockers in will make it bearable. How much of a difference does one of the easy pull levers make?? I might call FAST, I heard they have a really nice lever and perch set up. Wont be able to get it here in time for our trip, but maybe will help out in the futer. I just need to make it rideable for next week then I will have more time to mod shit. Has anybody out there run this Cascade clutch. The part number on the package is BHDC. Does this sound right, or did I get some kind of goof up? Any advice greatly appreciated.