rubberneck

These are almost the exact numbers recommended to me by Mike at ASR for my A-arms set up to dune with. He said about 6 degrees of caster, up to 4 camber and 1/8 toe. So since he recomended it and you said you had good luck with it, I am going to start there. Hopefully I wont have to monkey with them too much from there.

True, changing compression has minimal effect on jetting requirements, however it sounds like the head he put on may have been shaved. Using his terminology, the original head had a "deeper dish" than the new one. By putting the smaller CC head on he may have increased the compression to the point of needing to run higher octane fuel. Was the bike "pinging" before it blew up. What octane fuel were you running? What is your timing set at? Detonation can kill a motor even if properly jetted in a heartbeat.

I was in the market for a-arms a couple of months ago, and some posts on here were not very positive concerning those a-arms in your question. I ended up going with the american star units also available on ebay. they are 1" chromoly and guaranteed for life. Some guys on here had some good things to say about them. They look pretty good, but i havent been able to test them as i am still waiting on the swing arm from amstar as well. Something about a problem with their powdercoater or something holding it up. You can get the a-arms for 398 of ebay, or for 100 bucks more you can get the a-arms, new tierod ends, clamps and stainless braided brake lines. that is what i did. Check them out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ASR-Banshee...1QQcmdZViewItem

Forgot to add, the job is super easy if you have a press. I use an arbor press and bushing driver to press out the old bushings and install the new ones. You could probably have a machine shop do if for you for cheap if you dont have access to a press... It only took me about 10 min to press out all the old bushings and install the new ones in both bikes linkages once i had it all apart. The bushings are of a split design, so if you cant get anybody to press it, you may be able to use a chisel to carefully collapse the old bushings and knock them out, and then carefully tap the new ones in with a block of wood. Hope this helps

No there shouldn't be any play there. I just rebuilt the shock linkage on both my brothers and my banshees for the same reason. There are 2 bushings in the arm or "cradle" at that fronT mount that wear out. You can buy rebuilt kits from rockymountain to replace all the bushings & pins in the whole linkage, or you can get the bushings from cascade (or dealer) individually. Pull it apart first and take a look at the pin that the bolt goes through and see if there is any grooves on it. This is the part that actually rides against the bushings in that cradle. On both my bikes the pin was good, but the bushings were worn, so i just replaced the bushings (about $4 each) and seals ($3 each) and everything was nice and tight again. If you are going to do the whole linkage, you need 2 cradle bushings and 2 seals for that front bolt, and you will need 4 bushings that go in the "link" (2 at each end) Basically there are 2 buhsings at each pivot point. If the bushings and pins are all worn out, it is probably cheaper to buy the whole kit from rockymountain than to piece it together. Like I said, all the pins in my bike were good, so I just bought the bushings and seals. Take a look and see if there is any play in the top and bottom shock bearings while you are in there. I had to replace those as well. 35 bucks from rm. Check out cascade's websight and go the "genuine yamaha parts" section. Look under "cradle and link" parts and you will see the parts.

If its the same price as the 100, then I'd get the 110. Not aware of any problems related to more octane, but too little octane will ruin your day in a hurry. I say get the 110. From what I understand, around 150 is the limit for pump gas, so you may be able to mix 50:50 or even less maybe 2gall. race to 3 gall pump. Others will chime in for sure.

Gonna buy the RAZR2s from jim. Just sent you a PM JIM. I will give you a call tomorrow when I wake up. (working graves). Will probably go with the razrs on the front also, just to keep things matching. Thanks for all the replies and advice guys. PHil

Hey washburn, which model are you looking at on that page? Will they all work on an ATV, or do you have to make mods. It looks like they are designed for a bike. Sorry if these are basic ?s I dont know anything about these things. thanks

Just sent jim a PM. I am definitely interested. AS far as the loss of bottom end, i figured I would drop a 13 tooth front sprocket on when i use the taller tires and go back to the 14 when the sand tires are on.

Thanks for the info, I'm going to start checking them out. I just saw that NOSS machine sells one also. He seems to have a pretty good rep around here. I may check that one out.

Dampener, stabilizer, whatever you call them. Thinking of putting one on. After a long day of riding, my hands and arms are shot. Which one should I get? Thanks.

Ok, I've been riding more dirt lately, and the place I've been going is full of rocks on the trails. Popped a stocker front, and the rears are shot. I want 23" fronts and 22" rears to get as much clearance as i can. I can get either Holeshot XCT's, or the Maxxis RAZR 2's in those sizes. Which ones should i get? Price wise, they are within a few bucks from Rocky mountain, so cost isn't an issue. Also thinking of getting the ITP t9 baja rims. Anybody using these? Are they worth the extra coin over the regular t9's. Thanks Phil

Thanks for the info man. I have never personally seen either one, so a side by side 1st hand was what i was hoping for. Definitely will get the 16 now. I will be testing my current set up soon hopefully, and once I get the helmet light should have a good idea if I have enough light. (If there is such a thing) LOL I will keep you in mind, and if you do decide to sell them, shoot me a PM.

Cool, thanks for the info man. I'm hoping the wife will get me this for xmass, if not I'm going to order it before my jan trip to mojave. Right now I have 50w piaas in the stock location and 50w trail techs on the bars. One spot and 1 flood at each location. I have a feeling after using the HID helmet light, i will be floating the ground and wiring the bike to run DC and going with HID on the bike too. Im going to order the LiPo battery from trail tech, they claim that it will run the single 16 for 3 hours. What do you think, would you get the single 16 or the dual smr 11 kit for the helmet?

You should start a poll to gauge interest. I would drop 1k in a heart beat for a good EFI system. Would be too cool. Temp/altitude compensating. Just get on the bike and ride no matter where you are at, or what the weather is, no messing with anything. Easily worth 1k or more in convineince. JUst my .02

I have one, it is pretty good. I like the temperature gauge and idiot lights. You can program what temp you want the warning and the over temp light to flash at you. Besides temperature, i use the distance feature the most. Honestly, I cant look at the tach when riding, and rarely look at the speedo. It comes with everything you need to hook up and make it work. I installed a small battery where the stock tool kit once was to power the idiot and back lighting. According to trail tech, you can hook it in to the banshees stock power system, but when i do it, the tach freaks out. It works better hooked to my battery, but is not perfect. I dont know if my shee has a really dirty electrical system or what, but the tach seems to jump around a lot. I was goinjg to call trail tech about it, but after riding with it some, i realized i dont really care about the tach anyway. I wind it till she sounds like shes gonna blow then i shift. LOL I could care less what the tach says.

I just ordered a +2 from ASR based on the recomendation from some members. I had originally planned a +4, but I mostly dune, not drag race, and everybody said that the +2 along with some +2+1 a-arms would handle great and perform almost like stock in the tight stuff, with the added benefit of keeping the front down better. If you like to jump or do any tight technical stuff, they all told me to shy away from the +4 or longer. I plan on doing a 4 mil stock jug motor next year FWIW, and everybody said I would be happy with the +2 swinger. I liked the price and the looks of the ASR, and a couple of guys on here said they were happy with them. I haven't got them yet, hopefully anyday. http://www.amstarmanufacturing.com/Swingarms.html I also ordered my A-arms, billet clamps, and stainless lines from them. Can't wait to get them

Are you running the supercub cylinders? If so, I know i have seen Noss machine post up on here that he has done some supercub domes. Not sure if they are used in the "standard" cool head or if they require a special head, but Im sure he could tell you.

bump.......

I suppose I should say that I will be using the light in the sand dunes. Somebody on here has to have one of these things. Give me a shout. I have never seen one up close, or talked with somebody who uses one to know what i want. It just makes sense to have one as no matter where i look there will be light. I think if i were riding trails/woods, the flood would make perfect sense, but out in the wide open dunes, the long distance of the spot might make sense. I dont know. Help me out. thanks

All right, thinking of ordering the trail tech single smr16 HID helmet light. To you guys that have them, would you recomend the flood, or the spot light? Or would i be better off with the dual smr11 kit with one spot and one flood? thanks in advance. Phil

Is the choke crossover tube installed? Check and make sure it is on and not leaking and check for air leaks. Your jets may be off, but should be close enough to at least make it run decent. It souinds like something is way off though.

My bike has t5's, v-force3's and stock airbox/no lid with a uni foam filter. I run a 280 main at sea level. Your k&n pods are probably going to need another couple of jet sizes over that. I would say you would be in the 300 range on the main jet. And as far as the timing goes, When I advanced mine 4 degrees, i didn't have to change jetting at all.

clogged vent line on the tank. Try running the bike with the cap loose and see if the bike runs fine.

This post makes me nervous, i pulled the nut off and the swinger bolt didnt want to move. I was tired anyway and decided to quit for the night, so i didn't try the "heavy" persuasion yet. LOL I will keep you posted. Hopefully no cutting tools will be required.LOL Anyway, thaks for all the info. I will start with getting the thing apart and go from there. I may just drill and tap the stocker if I dont have to kill it getting it out. phil