rubberneck

Thanks for the info. Going to get one of the black ones.

Thanks man, that kicks ass. Can you buy the sub frame from him and weld it on yourself, or does he only do the whole job. I have a mandrel bender and tig welder, but if i could buy one ready to weld on, it would simplify instead of jigging it up myself. Thanks. man for the pic

Um ok, do what you want. You asked what caused it, we gave ways to find out. My bikes dont puke at all. Can ride for days on end throught the dunes and not a drop unless something isn't right. take it for what its worth

How about some details on the oven. I am thinking about doing some of this.

:biggrin: :biggrin:

Did you check the float level? Is the needle and seat in good conditon? Are the carbs in synch? Did you check for air leaks. Did you inspect the reeds when you had them out?

Last time we were there in feb, my brother hit an old t-post that was only exposed about 3 inches. Wiped out a Hauler. 300 bones wasted for the fuckin snowy plover or whatever they are trying to protect. God damn tree huggers

You need a name for it. Lately mine has been "rotten bitch"

Are there differences besides color of finish? I am interested in the black one with polished cover.

Hey fouledout421, do you have an aftermarket subframe on your bike? It looks like it might be in that pic. Do you have any pics of it with the plastics off? What size is it. I was thinking 3/4 chromemoly to do mine.

Sweet, thanks for the pics guys. My original idea was to make a bracket and weld it into the frame in the area like the gb plate. I then thought up front like fouled out. I will have to play with it and see what will work for me. Im thinking of doing a DC conversion and putting a battery up front, so I may not have room for everything. Do you think a stock CDI will fit the way bigboy did his without interfering with the seat??

LOL,, your bike is EMO it would cut itself LOL

Well while I have my motor out, ive decided to smooth the frame, remove all the unneeded stuff and have it coated. My subframe is a little tweaked, so im thinking of hacking off the stocker and building a new one. I want to clean it up under the seat. For you guys that have redone everything, where do you guys mount the CDI and voltage regulator. Doesn't look like there is much room above the motor. I need to wait till i get my new carbs and air cleaners, but it looks like there may be room to hide it above the pods right where the stinger tubes come inside the frame behind the fuel tank. What do you think? It also looks like I could move it up front under the front plastics, but you might see it there more than out back. Any ideas?

Yeah, they are. But If nothing else, I would miss the sound of the Banshee. Banshee hauling the mail = Eargasm. :biggrin:

I run only in the sand and have not been running o-rings. Seems as if no matter what you buy the sand tears the shit out of them anyway.. Have been running RK non oring and seems to work fine.

Mine isn't a lonestar, but im pretty sure most of the carriers and brakets are the same. The spacers are .390

We would need a complete list of mods and parts on the bikes to even guess. Unfortunately he will be in for a shock if he truly has that much invested in them, he will be lucky to get a 1/4 of that out of them probably.

Man, i dont know how you would break the bead on a stocker without a bead breaker. I swear they glue those damn things on. I have a small manual bead breaker that I made years ago. works pretty good. If you dont have a breaker, id pay somebody.

Ooops, sorry, just reread the description on the auction. It says its only 1/4 inch longer than stock and fully adjustable. I dont know how i missed that before. I think im going to pick one of the black ones up.

When i was at dumont for new years one of the guys i was camped with had them. He claimed they were made by shearer. Thats all I know. He said the bike had the ESR 400kit and it ran OK.

Yes, very good point. If it pressure tests ok, pull the radiator cap and look down inside while it is running. if you see lots of bubbles, you may need a head gasket.

With lid off, uni clamp on in stock box, I had 300 mains 4th notch on toomey needles with 25 pilots, air screws 1.5 turns out ran great at sea level. Went to K*N pods and had to go to 340 mains with clip on 2nd position and 25 pilots 1 turn out. Plug chop looked great bike ran great. I couldn't believe the difference the pods made on jetting. Just my experience.

I wish somebody would try this throttle and report back. I am really interested. The deal is my bike had one of those cascade extended thumb levers on it when i bought it. I hated it. it was too long, and akward. I found myself pushing it half way down the length with my thumb. I went back to stock and it is way better. i just want to make sure this isn't the same problem.. It sure looks nice I may just try it.

Preach on brother. That place is very friendly with my Visa card. LOL Hey, how much is the fine if you get caught?? I am going there in june, but that will be the first time in 10 years. I dont really want to drop 330 bones on silencers if i dont have to. I would think those silencers should help alot if for nothing else that they direct the sound down and not out. I think i am going to chance it and pay the fine if it is less than those silencers. If i start going there more often i will pick some up, i dont want the hassle or give the cops any reason to start looking.

1st off, the impeler is a good idea just for security sake, so im not discougaging that. But, its not going to fix an overheat problem. IMHO. I didnt notice a bit of cooling performance difference on my bike. (i have a gauge) I just have the piece of mind it wont break and leave my ass in the dunes. Put the water pump cover back on and pressure test the system. I was having similar issues on my brothers bike, and i thought the drip was coming from the overflow tube. Thing is, we checked the bike with a handheld infrared temp guage and it wasnt hot, just dripping. so I pressure tested it when we got home and found out that the burp tube from the top of the head to the radiator was leaking a bit when under pressure and it was dripping down running over and running down the overflow tube making it look like it was coming from the tube. PUt a new clamp on her and so far so good. If you decide to do the impelar, you will need, the impelar, a clutch cover gasket, a water pump cover gastket at a minimum. FWIW, on both of my bikes, i replaced the plastic drive gear, and c-clip that holds the gear on. On my bike the c-clip was worn half way through. Only another 10 bucks or so for both pieces and now you will have all new parts in the cooling system. I did not have to replace the water pump seal or bearing, they were in good shape. Just put some lube on the seal and be carefull when you put the impelar in. You dont want to tear that seal if it is still good. Oh yeah, the other thing, order the o-ring that goes on the water pipe that seals on the clutch cover. Both of my bikes, that oring was in sad shape. If it leaks, you can get coolant in the tranny.