sleeper06

Wsm uses the g-115 rod I've never personally seen one break but they are talked about like taboo on here . I use there jet ski and outboard stuff a lot and race pistons and I'm very pleased

I wish

It's safe , looks close

I thought he was at sea level , even if not one or two jet sizes , those plugs are caked

I would say your electrical system is sub par in an area or two, plug should not look like that at a 165 main and it could be source of your bog

The second the bike did it the first time you should have shut it down problems don't fix themselves and usually a few mins of bad choices lead to money loss. Make sure key didn't shear off and timing plate is good

Just to update Danny brought his shee too me to do a few test on bike since it was new to him. After tearing it down enouph to do leakdown I found head gasket leak on stator side cylinder . I pulled head sanded gasket surfaces , installed new head and it now passed a leakdown. He brought new pipes I installed ,then jetted the bike , put new plug caps on and bingo his shit is running great and safe now. He had just had it at a local steLership that totAlly fucked him but all good now

You still need to check squish , I like them .050 -.055 that's why I was saying maybe that particular motor was set up for a .012 base and would bring squish up to a safe area

Op I have stated in another thread most jetting I've done on 33 s tend to like a bigger main then there 35 mil counterparts . I know jeffs motors well give it what it wants if I were you I would add fuel till it doesn't like it then back down one size. Once you get the main figured out then play with the needle positions till your happy, if you can't finda position that works time to look for a diffrent needle . I found I like dek needles in 33 with my Porting style also last duneport of mine dialed in at 172 main 50 pilot dek 2 nd clip and a perfect 2-3 mm ghost ring any questions hit me up

If you don't leak test it it will blow again

Use rtv whatever you like

It's not abnormal, I've seen plenty favored to aside brand new from factory and hotrods

That carb is def not sized rite for that motor , I guess the signal is the reason it wants such small jets

My engine run bigger pilots than most with my style porting last duneport left me with a 165 main but owner squeezed it down to a 158

U should still put an o ring on stator side bearing if u can

Carb sync , cable play

Air leak

You will see variations in side to side in press together cranks no two cranks are pressed the same , from what it sounds you put the bearings on correctly . Make sure when spinning the crank the flywheel is off it will feel notchy from the magnets. I have also had problems using the full clip on some cases with the tz bearing. I use two stock clips instead . If the crank started to separate it can bind . I have also seen welded cranks where welding meg was putting pressure on the outer bearing race causing a bind

155-160 main, 50-52 pilot jjh needle 4 th clip all based on a tight mechanically sound engine

I've built a few blasters, last one I did was pretty well built up I oredered ceramic ball . pancake bearing does not exist and from what I understand . it's not that common that they weld either

Is it a ported bike what are the rest of mods

Get a Dyna fs programmable cdi , there is gains to be made with diffrent maps but it's not for a beginner to start messing with you can get greedy and fuck some shit up. What kind of pipes are you running?

What gas u running now, motors always timing and compression and bigger carbs as long as supporting mods can handle it. Is crank welded with good bearings and are you gonna run good fuel ?

Def rich with lid on , do a pass and pull s plug

Might wanna contact lms1977 on the site or one of the coal hill guys they love those powervalve motors over there might have some insight for us . I always jet every motor the same , get it close , chop it, adjust from there I always do main first then needle but others do it in reverse