sleeper06

They jet very close if not same. You gave the motor a pressure test ? I'm in Long Island and in the northeast I see more bikes needing 30s for pilots . As long as it's mechanically sound you should be 280 -290 main 30 pilot and get toomey needles , Vito's needle are terrible

Red n blk go to key. Blk n blk/wht go to tether if u have one . Would be nice to see a pic of what u got , over the years people hacked these bitches together

Fast racing and have em ship usps you'll have em in two days , get 27.5 and 30s

I've had a few convos about this with cam from redline and he even suggested intakes with the crossover for trails. I beleive he has seen differences in the curve on the dyno

After finding pilot size I would def throw a bigger main in there considering time of year. If using the stock needle I've found going all the way to the richest setting has been the sweet spot on many engines with those pipes. I like to use the toomey needle as they offer more adjustability . If the motor sounds hollow it's lean

Cool I thought you were someone from by me I was just talking to about getting an lsr frame

Lol I'm not gonna bash you at all I believe the crossover intakes offer better low end performance and transition for trail bikes.

Do you look to see what pilots are in it and check you float height.

I'm gonna be as nice as possible, tricked n I are extremely well versed in tuning two strokes your not talking to forum idiots . In winter you need 290 main ,30 pilot , toomey needles 4th clip , summer 280 mains 27.5-30 pilot . Fmf seem to like 1 turn out or less with 27.5 pilot so I usually up it . Are you syncing your carbs with a vacuum gauge ? If not your guessing

Test cap to cap and tell me what u get

That's what I was getting at tricked, he originally thought he was rich

Where u from

Do u have an air box? Lid on or off

What bore/domes/fuel/timing/porting? Pipes? Jesse gave you a safe starting point

You also need to give sealer 24hrs to dry , I've seen sealer get pushed out without proper drying time

IMO opinion you need to get those plugs sealed 100% with no bubbles. Clean holes n plugs with ascetone then use some three bond 1211 and some new hose clamps n retest. Have you ohm tested the plug caps n coil

I few times while fixing other people's port jobs I had to go lower than the piston edge. I like a certain shape and taper so if previous porting made the bottom half of the ex too wide and box ish I will go lower to help the ring out a lil

They always run great rite before they pop

Post a pick of piston hole was it a clean blowtorch hole or was there deto around it

I didn't post my comment to start a fluid dynamics war just kinda an FYI pice of info. I've ran and built many bikes with pic cylinders with no issues its just personal opinion to my customers

No my guess is airleak because your a tad rich on jetting . You guys need to start getting in th habit of leakdown before tear down , it takes away the what ifs and guessing . If it passed a leak then u move on to mechanical failure

My spread sheets are on my wife's old iPad . I don't get much opportunity to race anymore , I'll get back to it once kids are squared away in college. My test subjects were two identically built 4 mill stock cylinder motors which were ran on gas for two seasons then switched to alky. I get every motor is different the pc coated cylinder ran 15 deg hotter at the end of 1/4 mile pass and took dbl the time to cool down . Not a big deal in a race platform . I have little to no testing in a trail bike but I do push paint over powder to my customers

I actually have years of testing it at the track on this subject and it's substantial on cool down between runs. I used to document everything after run , temps was one of them.

Well keep tuning n doing plug chops, you have a unicorn set up n mismatched at that most info will be basic round about. Do you have cel needles or the stock dgh in the 39s

What's wrong with glass bead n paint