sleeper06

I was on the phone with jeff from farm and sand toys,I told him I have a crank graveyard over here if he need anything off them,he told me with labor and parts to fix them its cheaper to buy a used one in good condition,so I tossed all but two today,I sold my stock crank for$100 and it was mint off an 06 imsure you will find something on here

Just shouting out the obviuos,I had serious trouble with a 636 today turned out to be really stupid,hope you figure it out,I forgot is your rear guide on the arm spaced correctly with chain in the middle,sometimes with aftermarket guides they need to be spaced,two washers or so

Dont know how mild your port is but with a play/trail port on 30mm,I ran 158 main 45 pilot,+4 timing,145lbs compr

I just built a stock cylinder dune port motor with 35mmpwks,after he brought it back after break in I ended up at 48pilot,165 main at sea level,+4timing,t-5s,air box no lid

Dont know if anyone said this but are all of your guides and rollers on there,if not it will skip

You could have at least showed me the wires on that vid I would have tried to guide you a lil

The little that I know comes from dragging cars and bikes,Im usually the electrician on everyones projects,I just set up an r1 with a progressive system,air shifterw/ignition kill its never dawned on me to have a button for ignition kill,its usually automatic.Looks like ill be getting a dyna box.Is there any box that I should look out for not get,I dont know how many there are

My bad

Try switching carb slides with each other,cut on the slide faces the air cleaner

While your master is open,look at the return hole,take a piece of wire poke it till u get bubbles up,if that dont work I usually crack the lines at the splitting block and handle

My buddy used E-bay ,he got a set used only on dyno for $350 shipped in like new condition

I rock out a plus +6 on a stock port cub,if it hooks it wont come down till I click sixth,my drag bike has a wheelie bar.I have no problems with it but I live to ride wheelies so im rite at home

Not that I want you too give away all your secrets,Is the ignition kill part of air shifter system,or seperate,if so what kind do to the fact I just got that same tranny.I know its taken you years and countless passes to get where you are and I appreciate all the info.Im trying to turn some good times this year

Drain it again into an aluminum pan and you can reuse it. It takes 1 full quart and 1/2quart

Sure could be,run the bike with the radiator cap off ,if anti freeze shoots everywhere your head gasket is shot

Need someone to measure piston/cylinder clearance,before you go taking more material out, you could end-up with a loose motor that will not last long

If there the same as noss head rings you can get them from any site sponsor

Where is your compression at and timing,Jeff didnt tell you base jetting for the carbs,if he did he is most likely rite,I have doubted him before and allways ended damn close to where he wanted me,you will need to run bigger pilots with the cub,I also didnt know jeff dune ported cubs I thought it was drag or clean up,you will get peace of mind in a pressure test

I pressure test as soon as the case sealer dries(overnight)

I run 39s on gas ,but jeff told me that I could use same size carbs on my set-up BUT your port work is key who did it and what kind,ditch the t-5s

I wouldnt say it affects a certain range,its more all around flow and delivery of fuel into the transfers,its free horsepower,and very easy to do

Yeh thats rite ,your not missing parts

I had a similar problem like that last month,turned out to be the flywheel,one of the nodes wasnt working,swapped one out,purred like a kitten,try swapping wires see if problem follows wire,if you have after market carbs swap carbs see if it follows,but the fly wheel through me for a loop for six hrs and it looked and sounded fine when shaken

Perfect timing mine gets here in a few days

Thats some hot shit