sleeper06

Maybe im too anal with measurements but its been my experiance that stock bore size wiseco pistons will never give you recommended piston/cylinder clearance in a stock bore.I would suggest going .010 over at the very least to insure tight clearance.Now after you have tight clearance,hone and re-ring all you want.It just seems to me after honing a stock bore lightly there is too much clearance.Yamaha sets there bores up loose from the factory so its harder to cold cease.In my opinion you would gane longer life all around with a bore and pistons,it sucks but not that bad.I used to take all my cylinders to a local guy that charged me 75 a hole now with this website Jeff gets all my machine work,he has done countless sets for me and there allways straight and tight trust me I check everything that comes back,

Like no one has ever pull started a bike for shits and giggles b4,shit happens and its easy as hell

I could be wrong!! If im not mistaken the g-force uses a clip on the axel like a honda setup to tighten the nut against and the lonestar uses a yamaha dbl nut or pinch nut set up

You can also measure your cylinders with a mic 64mm=stock 64.25mm=.010over 64.50mm=.020over and so on be sure of what you order,also check piston to cylinder clearance,too lose is no good .003-.004 is good anything after that gets noisy runnable in somecases but will affect piston life due to moving in bore to much

As stated in one of your earlier posts you said you had to push chokes down rite,therefore you have after market carbs on there,take a picture of the carbs and post them we can give you more guidence then,my guess is you have after market carbs with no choke tube independant chokes correct me if I read something wrong

Are you sure you didnt shear the key off,just buy a woodruff key and try it,check pick-up coil gap.I have had keys dissappear before on diffrent bikes that came through.I highly doubt your cdi is bad although its possible. Is your crank marked up around slot.take a pic and post it because with no key in there it would explain intermitant spark

Thanks for the info ,Jeff from F.A.S.T saya I have tha motor now its up to set-up and how far I want to guy,Jeff sent me a pic of Teddars bike when I was building mine for tips and whatnot,I forgot to mention I have 19" tall american racers.Its hard to find people who actually run the 1/4 and want to help.My problem is going to the track and feeling rushed between cars and bikes they hate us on the track and I never get good tuning passes and resort to tuning on the street.Sucks over here

What would that ratio be!!! lil hint

Let me get pics

I got the arms

My bike was lugging sixth and certanly not tuned at all,since then I have figured some stuff out and want to see the diffrence this year,They say I should be at a 2-1 ratio for the 1/4

Even if you have the set-up to actually run the times takes alot of practice,and tuning,compresion,timing,gearing,I break more shit tuning then racing

Im running 17 tooth in the front 39 in the back I made the 1/4 but felt like the bike would have been quicker in 5th the hole way like nyuk said.I also have straight cuts with the taller ratio

Mine are close together and never had a problem,the bracket was bought for $15

Ill give you $ 500 for it

I would replace it ,there is obviously serious bearing wear from locking up ,it would be safer to buy a used stock crank in good condition from someone on the site

I have to go out with my daughter for an hour or so ill get back later,

Go with the 4mil, highroller 355 had a4mil when I had a stock stroke,same guy ported both bikes with similar configurations,his bike had some serious tork compared too mine

Your local dealer or e-bay,one vent goes to fitting in rear of motor under mount,one goes to clutch cover fitting,(behind three screw cover clutch side),they T-together betwwen both carbs and just run up near the upper steering stem mount and dead end ,its not going to cause it not to run.Did you buy a bone stock motor or is it modded if so what mods and what carbs and jetting will come into play.your carbs or did they come with motor and who did you buy motor off so we can find out info

32mm its a jap bike

Have you touched your slides in the carbs,cut out goes toward back of bike,slides in wrong side.If your an electrician get a clymers manuel look at the schematic for the ignition system you will see what wires need to stay and go.Im an electrician in nyc and had no problem making custom harnesses in bikes im sure you can too

I found both base gaskets blown out,o-ring blown,piston to cylinder clearance was .006 when it was.003 after bore and hone,left cylinder was out of round,base of cylinders alittle tweaked on decking tool.His crank looks good still

It all depends on your port heights/demensions ,your builder should be able to give you a ball park depending on your needs

I took the rest of the motor apart today he will be buying a cub sooner than he thinks lol.

Didnt read everything but did u try some heat on the spindle,put some heat on it,thread nut on backwards,air chisel with blunt end and hiter up(dont try this at home kids)