sleeper06

Stock reed cage stock boots there is only two gaskets on cylinder side from factory

If you put it back together leave air box off,run the bike,you said it was popping or something rite,see if its popping back through carb . If so You might have some issues in there

If your running 18cc domes thats some heavy port work,in my opinion 320 is way small you should be in the 360-380 range with that main jet,pilot should be fine,I think your lean for starters.You can ohm out your stator relativly easy and rule that out,take the choke mechanism out /inspect it lube it (o-ring) blow air thruogh it with carb bottom off so air can go through circiut

Weld it up

If you have air blow everything out,need to know sizes now cause wheather is a changin

I dont think I would go much leaner where we are with that set-up,can u get a plug chop off where you are,if not im in nassau and its a go over here on weekends

If there is sand in your carb more than likely its in your motor,the book shows you how to do it ,at least the service manual does,carb upside down from top of float to gasket ledge with a mic.how lean was your bike to be overheating

Im concerned with the melted wires how bad and which ones,certain wires will cause similar problems ,check the boot an air leak is no joke

Not a bad deal but I much rather see you go with a cool head and cut domes with the rite porting,you dont have to port rite away but I dont know personally how much power you would gain from just a crank. Pretty cheap deal,If you want to port later then just buy the kit run it ,when your ready its going to be pistons,bore,porting,coolhead instead of just spending now on coolhead and port.You get where im going with this Its like doing everything twice if you decide you want power.A 4mil play port is reasonable from fast racing plus you get discounts if you buy with him.I would hate too see you put it together and not be happy

Why is the question?If there is any compromise to the bearing journals for the crank its a no go.Then again I have seen crazy shit with the R1 cases puking there guts up and we weld-em up with no probs yet

Cool head/timing plate for sure,compression and timing go along way on a stock motor and fun to ride with those pipes v-force3s great idea if you got the money.the bike is fun at the point your at,go to a site sponsor youll get all three cheaper than seperatally

You need to just cut it off get the jug off and deal with it,chances are if your having that much trouble with the nut the stud will be twice as hard,rusted,frozen.Find someone with a good mig or tig welder,weld another bolt or nut onto stud,the heat and frequency of the welder breaks up the rust and the heat will allow you to back it out easily.This is done on just about every watercraft with a problem works great and takes no time/effert.I have done it too banshee cases after my friend snapped three studs taking his shit apart Sorry got off topic,Die grinder with a porting tool will fit rite in and take the nut rite off

HMMMM glad you got it

I put the bottle up front behind bumper,5lb bottle fits perfect.I dont have pics and im no expert on it.I made an aluminum plate off water bottle bracket and mounted pump and two selenoids.My system was set-up for an alcohol bike so my old overflow was a tank for race gas because alky is no good with nitrous im told.sorry on tye pics but ill look

Unfortunatally your talking to one anal bastard,I replace everything more than usual,my friends make out well,Do you have a billet basket,if not check cushions for play on stock basket.I would do a clutch Your looking at crank=$500 seal kit=50 piston kit/gaskets=155 clutch gasket=15 bore/hone=$150(might be diffrent by you) clutch/springs=$99 If you go stroker you need to drop port heights for optimal performance,These prices can vary a little and im sure people will catch feeling but I have built alot of shit and you can go broke trying to save money especially with a shee

Just make sure to use good stuff,solder,flux,and a personal favorite is heat shrink with sealant in it

Wiseco makes inbetween sizes of 513series(stock stroke)but you can only go in .020 at a time with stroker keep that in mind if your doing a crank,bore size is not a noticable diffrence unless the bike ran like crap from low compression

Im almost positive I saw something on you tube with a guy riding it in the snow

You can contact NYUK on this site hes helped me out a couple of times or I live in Long Island and have a good guy by me now ,he does amazing work,I work in the city so I can Meet you half way BUT you should really pick your color in person By the way NYUK is from jersey I think or philly area

Sure it would didnt know how far you want to go,4mil 115long rod is the way to go,porting to match

Did you inspect the domes and head maybe there is a crack in it one of them,I have seen it happen very small hairline is all it takes.Are you burning it also ? It is poossible to go through waterjacket when porting transfers highly unlikely but possible+

Plug caps or coil bad

Ditto

Its not ok but it will run just bad,see if the cylinder is glazed,did you bore for the top end or just throw pistons in.You could have been out of clearance from the get go,or overheated from air leak,what was compression when you put it together

thats low for a rebuild