bigblockbanshee

The LSR link above is no longer working for me, anyone else?

Typical internet forum BS man, don't sweat it. Some people have nothing better to do than to bitch at someone for asking a question when I guaran-damn-tee that they've done something like that at one time or another. Sounds like you have your answer though. I ran into the same thing with my ModQuad kit, their website sucks for tech info and they won't email back either. So I came on here with my question just like you did and got flamed to hell for it but thankfully there are still some out there like myself that do not care whatsoever to give someone help without bitching at them about using the search function or other methods. If people don't have anything constructive to say then they should pass on by and that goes for everyone from the site owner down to a newb. Bunch of keyboard whores getting off on giving others a hard time. Almost sounds like some form of personal insecurity to me. Phuck 'em.

Pipes, jetting, K&N-style filter and filter adapter kit (doesn't have to be K&N, there are much cheaper brands such as the Vito's kit for $40), adjustable billet timing plate set at +4, those are the basics. Afterwards you could get porting done and be pushing out some pretty big numbers and all on stock carbs. Move up to bigger carbs and watch the power go out the roof. Of course it's going to sound boring but horsepower is no good if you can't get it to the ground so you may look at suspension mods too.

#1 I'd say is normal, until they get greased and the new bushings worked in they'll probably be a bit tight to the bare hand but fine with all of the weight of the rest of the bike on the suspension. #2 I'm not sure I'm following correctly but it would be rather difficult to adjust caster on one of these so I'm hoping you meant camber. Caster is the relation of one ball joint to another from front to rear, camber is from side to side. When you see the top of a tire/wheel leaning inward towards the frame that's negative camber. Anyway, you said the joint has a nut on the back of it, is that the only one or is there one on each side of the ball joint tube? Being Lonestar I'd think that the arm itself is threaded so personally I'd probably move that nut towards the outside of the arm, of course this depends on the degree of camber you want to put into your suspension. Best thing to do is put the shocks on and measure what you want your ride height to be with you sitting on it and someone else measuring or vice versa but make sure they're close to your weight. After that is adjusted up you can either have them bounce on it a few times and monitor the actions of the camber or you can take the shocks back off and adjust the height with a jack to monitor the camber. After that you can decide on how much initial camber to run and where you want it to be while the suspension is compressed as well. Hope all of this helps.

Reeds? Bout the only thing you didn't mention...

Where do you get those Alba graphics or are they factory? The bike looks awesome.

Is it wet like really rich or what?

It's the rubber piece that came with the pipe clamps that I bought. And yes it is strikingly similar to a big garden hose IMO. After I tweaked the mounts a bit and got them evened up somewhat I just tightened everything from the silencers forward. I got some wierd looking rear hangers off of another 'shee though so that may have something to do with it. Everything seems ok now, fired it for the first time last night.

I have a really nice set but the top mounting holes on each one are bowed out a bit causing it to leak a bit of air during a leakdown. It's still well within the acceptable limits but I'd be more comfortable with zero leakdown. Just hoping maybe someone is upgrading to billet intakes or something and is wanting to get rid of their stockers for cheap. Let me know what you have. Chris

PMs replied to on Cascade cover and front shocks.

I'm giving it one more go 'round. Prices DO NOT include PayPal fees of 3%. If the price is "shipped" or "plus actual shipping" it will be noted. On to the goods... Cascade water pump/side cover. $30 shipped to US48 Kickstart gear/mechanism, great condition. $15 shipped to US48 Stock swinger and carrier, both been drilled and tapped for grease fittings, both need full rebuild (bearings, etc.) $20 for swinger OR carrier, $30 for both PLUS ACTUAL SHIPPING 15 and 18cc standard bore/stroke "Pro-Design style" cool head domes, both are brand new, the 15s are still in the package, picture is from an earlier thread but you get the point. $35 shipped per pair to US48 Bad crank, needs complete rebuild. Front shocks, one decent, one for parts only. ^^^ Crank and front shocks I will sell for actual price of shipping to your door, plus 3% fee of course. ^^^

I know there are a frickin' million and one threads on this subject but I've ran into problems on mine and need to know who makes them so I know who to go to with my bitching. I've had one guy comment that they looked homemade and well, I kinda agree. Either way I would like to know if anyone has seen any like these. I had one hell of a time getting them to fit, actually had to heat the lowers and bend part of them to make them fit. The I.D. of the bushings and O.D. of the shafts I got with them were about .100" bigger than stock Banshee pieces. And what looks fishy are the lower shock mounts actually having 3 holes to adjust ride height I'm guessing or allow for different length shocks. Although a stock shock will only fit the inside hole as the lower portion of the body of the shock gets into the mount itself so you can't use the 2 lower holes without using aftermarket pieces. I bought them as ASRs and they were supposed to have came straight off of another 'shee and straight to my door. Can anyone help?

You guys have got some killer looking rides. It's really nice to see so many riding actual trails and XC because that's what I'm interested in. The nearest sand is about 800 miles away so I'm not too enthused about going that route. Hopefully I can get some pics of mine up tomorrow. I'm awaiting full skids currently, otherwise we're "all systems go". Right now my main concern is gonna be my T5s with my stock bore/stroke engine on these tight trails around here.

Or just lube the cable...

Thanks to BigRed350X I got it fixed, close thread please...

Got everything taken care of, thanks all!

PM Stacman450, he has some great looking T5s, exactly what you are looking for.

Glad it's not just me then. I decided to loosen everything and try to tweak it some more and I think I got them pretty close as I tightened everything from the rear forward. I learned that trick from my R1 lol.

I'll take one too if you don't mind. PM me your info please. Chris

Yes I should've said stinger in my title but I can't edit it. Anyway I'm trying to put on my exhaust an notice that the left silencer sticks out about an inch past the right side and the added length is in the stinger tube, the pipes are close to the same. Are all of them like this? Seems really tacky to me. These are T5s by the way.

Lol not exactly what I wanted to hear although I do agree. I've compared many different brands and have never seen any like these. To be totally honest I don't know 100% that these even came off of a Banshee. That's what I bought them as but when I went to put them on the lowers were waaaayyyy off. I had to put new bushings in them as the ones that came out of it had an I.D. that was about .100" more than stock. I also had to heat the rear mount on the lowers and bend them to where they would work in my frame mounts.