Stellar Performance

The adjustment screw on the very bottom of the shock is the rebound adjustment. What I suggest it turn it all the way one direction, counting the clicks. Check it see if your rebound gets better or worse. Then turn it untils it stops going the other way, also counting clicks. Check it again. Most likely you will find a happy spot. I've seen it many times on banshees that the rebound was set way to loose. How is your compression setting. Does the bike push down really easily. I recommend checking the compression setting on the reservoir also using the same system. Once you find your "HAPPY PLACE'....lol.....make a note of how many clicks it is set on. That way you have a point of reference if you ever make changes. Don't be affraid to turn the dials and see what happens, thats what they are for. If you are not happy with how it is acting now....all the more reason to play with it.

I thought the purpose behind the NOSS Coolheads were that you still ran stock length head studs? Anyways, If you were able to torque it down properly, then I doubt it was the stud. It is fairly easy to pinch the oring on the threads of the stud while installing the top half of the head. That would be my guess......or you did not properly torque the head. Keep in mind, even when using an oringed head, you still want to tighten the head bolts in the correct pattern to make sure it seats evenly. The proper tightening pattern can be found in your Clymer manual. :wink:

All of my bikes have the shift star mod done, but am not familiar with the shift pro kit? I've had this happen on two bikes now, both with overrides? I guess I will have to tear into her again and do some looking around.

Oh yeah.....learned the hard way a while back. All of my bikes use the pancake needle bearing on the clutch rod now. Almost go stuck at olds hill one trip due to the clutch rod/ball welding together....it was the first time that it had happened and wasn't sure what the hell was going on. After that though......I purchase one for every engine.

I had purchased some intakes from shawn (BansheeFreak) and he had them to me in 2 days. They were dead on exactly as described, plus he hooked me up on the price........ Shawn.....you da man! :thumbsup:

Oh kawiking..........you are so right. I will make sure it is out tomorrow for trash day.....LOL

That is very true.....I shouldn't poke fun at him. Sorry. It is very respectable how he did refund the buyers money at his own expense. This thread would have been more helpful is he narrowed it down a bit. I am sure that there are plenty of honest sellers on this forum. I have been taken a couple of times on ebay...but still continue to buy.

Okay.....I've built building engines for a while now, but am curious of why some of them have a small spring on the rear shift fork shaft and some do not. I have been through my clymer manual numerous times and they do not show it. I have read some threads about dunable overrides using a spring for the forks, but none of these trannys are dunalbe overrides. Ive seen it both on a engine with a 1-4 nuetral down override, and even a stock tranny engine. Just hoping to get some input........Thanks Guys! :biggrin:

Okay......so I have been through quite a few built banshees already. And my question is if anyone else has known of a bike wanting to jump into gear from nuetral when reving it up. My old 350 drag shee with a 2-5 override did it every once in a while, and my current 7mil cub, also with a 2-5 override does it too. When I am tuning and reving it up....I notice that I am better off having it in gear with the clutch pulled, then leaving it in nuetral and and chance it popping into gear. It seems to only happen at higher rpms, but it engages pretty hard when it does. Anyone have seen or had this issue?

You will have to decide if you want the low beams, or high, and also if you want the tail light on. Your feed wire(power) is the Yellow/Red wire. You will need to connect it to the wires below to determine what you want on. The Low Beam wire is Green The High Beam wire is Yellow THe Tail light wire is Blue Example.....if you want the high beams and tail light on....connect both of them to the Yellow/red wire. You can find all of these wires at the plug where your light switch connects in the front under your gas tank cover. Make sure to make a nice clean and somewhat water tight connection.

Yeah......game is killer. Bought it on the day of release, PC, and was dissapointed to have beaten it on the second night. But now I play online and am building my player up. I am at LT II (29) right now....so not bad. The graphics and realism is truely amazing though. I play a ton of Counter Strike, but this is my new favorite game. A must have if you are into first person shooters.

You guys are killing me here........

Most likely not the plugs......does the pipe on the backfiring side get hotter than the other? Check to see if the vent tube that connects the stock carbs together is in place. I had the same problem a long time ago.......dicked with it forever. Ended ub being that the vent tube between the carbs was not seated all of the way, letting more air into one of the carbs. It backfired alot, and surged wuite a bit also. When you cleaned your carbs, did you just spray carb cleaning into them, or did you actually use compressed air afterwards to blow everything out? I always give my carbs a heavy spray down with carb cleaner, then take a air nozzle with a rubber tip on it to blast out all of the vents, jets, etc. That has always worked for me. But be sure to check that vent tube.

That is true.....you want to run the lowest posible octane (without pinging) to get the most power. Higher octane fuel burns cleaner, helps emissions.........and costs way more. Now if you end up advancing the timing greatly......+7 or more, you might want to run the higher octane, but other than that.......keep it simple and reliable, and save yourself some money.....run 93. :biggrin:

Unless you want to fight to get it off, and then have to clean it everytime to reinstall it......I would jsut get a new gasket :happy:

As long as you keep your key switch.....you can unplug the handle bar mounted light/kill switch. It actually sends a ground to the cdi to kill the motor when in the off position. I used to install a tether kill switch on all of my bikes as an extra kill switch, but your key will do just fine. :biggrin:

I have split many cases before.....250r, 400ex, warrior, raptor 660, etc......and the banshee is hands down the easiest to split and by far the easiest to reassemble. Like everyone has said.....GET A MANUAL! If you every have to split Raptor cases.......take it to a shop....LOL

Before I invested into my tools, I used to use a slide hammer to pull them out. Its basically a Dent puller for body working, but you attach different size washers depending on the size of the bearing. It actually works very well. You can pick one up cheap at most auto parts stores or really cheap at Harbor Freight. Now I use a air hammer with a long reach head.......as long as I do not plan on reusing the bearing......lol

You could check the compression in the cylinders to see if they match. Do it cold, and then warm it up and do it hot. That way you can compare both readings. Might be time for a new rings and a hone. The main thing you are looking for is equal compression readings from each cylinder.

My only guess would be that something had got into the carb when you rejetted it....but after running it, it probably cleared out. Hopefully nothing metallic I would fire it up and see if one pipe gets hotter quicker than the other. Check at the pipe and at the exhaust. If it does....start looking for air leaks and pull the carb back off to clean it out. Good Luck

If he had bought a replacement frame from a yamaha dealer.....it will not have a stamped VIN on it......so a VIN plate or sticker issued by the state is required. Either the frame was an 05 model or that is the years he had it titled for the first time. Either way, you'll probably never know for sure. Good luck though

Thanks man.....I really appreciate that. The rest of my bike was assembled and the fender was the last thing to finish. I didn't want to take it out for the first time without a fender, so I ended up throwing that together......it turned out way better than I expected for doing it in such short time frame.

Frame W/Title $$$$$ Paypal Accepted?

What a dead on statement.............So True. I guees I will not be buying parts from him......lol

Kinda crazy looking at those pics.....my drag bike used to be candy purple just like that. Give me a price on that swingarm also......Thanks. PM SENT