Stellar Performance

Oh man....you should have let that hang out there a little bit longer. I was lmao......haha. It should be nice riding out there before it gets all torn up from the big holiday weekend.

You really will not see any difference between the two. Since they are the same displacement, port layouts basically the same, youre not gonna get any more out of the cheetah over the cub. If you went with the powervalve on the cheetah, it would make the motor much more of an all around ridable bike. But as far as peak numbers go, they are gonna be the same. And at that point, go with which ever one is cheaper.

how would you know, you were asleep. BUT THEY DID TELL ME THAT YOUR MOUTH WANTED TO OPEN NATURALLY!!!!

I guess it has been explained incorrectly to me all these years. I was always told if the axis of the pivot point, pointed forward, it was a positive castor. And if it pointed rearward, it was negative. But it makes perfect sense that if you look at it clock wise, you would want it moving forward, or in a positive direction. Good info right there. I stand corrected!

Actually positive castor will help you to turn easier, negative castor will help keep your wheels going straight. If you had 14-15 degrees of positive castor, it would be a death trap going 80-100 mph down the strip.

hehehe.....thats not a hot dog!!! Thats actually Austins little pecker in his face. He would have gone for the buns, but lucky for Eric, he passed out sitting down

There are a coule of ways to secure the wheelie bar to the swingarm, but most of them require welding a bracket to the swingarm. If you do not plan of lowering the front of the bike any. Then you will only want to lower the rear enough so the bike sits pretty close to level. If you build some struts for the front as well, then you can lower the entire bike to sit about 3-4 inches off the ground. Check with your local track and see what is required to pass tech.

The plus forward arms do help with weight transfer. But for asphault I would still recommend a wheelie bar. Depending on your weight, you dont want to go with too long of a swingarm to help keep some weight over the tires. And just like Slowerthanyou stated. For Asphault you really want somewhere between 12-15 degrees of negative castor. I have built a few sets of the -1+3.5 forward drag arms with the negetive caster built into them for the asphault guys.

Wheelie bars are not that difficult to make. You just have to give it some thought when doing one. If you connect the upper bar to the frame rather than a point connected to the swingarm, you will have to strut the rear. A good rule of thumb is to make the wheelie bar length the same as your wheel base. A stock banshee is 50.4 inches long. So if you have a +2 swingarm, you should aim for about a 52-54" long wheelie bar. If you have too short of a wheelie bar, it will be a rough transfer on and off the bar.

The Bearing carrier is not oval. The bore for the bearings if offset from the center of the outer diameter. It create a "cam" effect. So as you rotate the bearing carrier, the bearings will move forward and back to tighten or loosen the chain.

Right on Guys. Glad to see you guys are gonna put this together yet again. We will defintely head out again as well.

You're hired!!!!

Sooooooooooo What youre saying is there is no 8th gear? :yelrotflmao:

Okay [pablo]....lmao. So far I already have friends planning Halloween in Glamis. So most likely thats where I will be. We can always get together before then though. I dont car if I have a drag bike ready or not, I would love to get some riding in. The last couple of trips have been pretty much just sitting at the hill and drag racing all day. Not that I am complaining, but thats a long ass drive to not do any duning too. Lets get something going!

uh oh.....JT is Bringin up some old pics.....lol. Hows the new build coming man? Or is that old news already. I lose track of time

Most of the lightened stock frames end up around 35 pounds. To get it down to 30 is pretty tough. You need to remove so much of the stock mild steel and replace with chromoly. And even at doing that, 30 pounds and still having a safe frame is tough. A stock a-arm frame weighs in at 46 pounds, 35 is a good number to aim for.

Hey Alfie. I dont want to bust any bubbles here. But we do have a couple of site sponsors that are already modquad dealera. I dont feel that it is right for you to advertise something that could take away from the other sponsors until you become one. Like I said, I dont want to sound like an ass, but feel its only fair that way. Tim

I can tell you that even using the 14mm tie rod ends for ball joints, you are still going to spend about $17-$25 each. You might as well call metal tech and buy ball joints that are designed for the yamaha spindle. They are 16mm, nice and beefy, and I believe they cost around 25.00 each. Dont sell yourself short trying to save 15-20 on a very important part if you are trying to build a nice set of arms. I know that it seems like 430.00 is expensive for a set of arms. My drag J-arm kit sells for 420.00 in a bare finish. But I can tell you that you get what you pay for (in most cases). There are quite a few companies out there that offer cheap product and thats exactly what you get. Ive had some people send me links to other companies products asking me what I thought about them. I refuse to mention other companies names in a negative manner. But make sure you are understanding what you are getting. What materials (mild steel, DOM, 4130, etc.), welds (mig, tig), etc. I am all for the do-it-yourself guys. In some ways that how I got started doing what I do now. You will never know what you are capable of unless you try. I say give it a go and see what you can do!

Whoa......take it easy. Mark was just giving a little insight to what the market is like for this type of item to try to sell. Im sure there are guys that would love to have this frame. You may be correct that lonestar no longer makes these. I do know that lonestar takes orders on custom chassis's, so it wouldnt suprise me if someone wanted one bad enough that they could still get one. Just because they no longer advertise this specific chassis does not mean it is not available. It also seems like there have been quite a few guys that have been pm'ing you in regards to a purchase? For someone to come on here with only 25 posts and advertise such a "rare" and expensive item, but not responding to pm's sure doesn't make much sense. I wouldnt bash too many of the drag guys "common" bikes. There are plenty of drag racers who have one off or custom chassis's that cost just as much if not more than this lonestar setup. Im not trying to bash your thread. You have a very nice setup for sale. Just dont come into our family like forum and start jumping on people.

I can help with the swingarm. Send me a pm of what you are looking for. Tim

!!!!SOLD!!!!

Thats the same guy I got your Pipes from Eric. He always has some good deals.

Drop me a PM and let me know what you are wanting. Or check with Andy at M&M ATV. He has some of my product in stock and ready to ship. Im a dealer for modquad as well, and I can double check but I believe that swingarm kit retails for either 699 or 799 from them. Its not a bad deal. But I can tell you that one of my dealers no longer offers them as he prefers my product over theirs. I do not believe they offer them in a bare finish either for those who are not wanting chrome.

This question still comes down to what its purpose is going to be and who is going to set it up. If you are not going to pay a known builder to port the cylinder (which ever you choose), then the cheetah will make more power out of the box. I have seen T-REX motors just as fast as the same CC Cheetah builds. But the difference is you really need to have someone that knows the T-REX to do the work. And in the end, it still comes down to how much time and effort you put into tuning. As far as the TREX domes (cc's). They do use a different piston configuration. So dont let the 10 or 12cc volume scare you. If you decide to go that route, just make sure who ever you order the cylinder kit from, stress to them the fuel you are wanting to run.

!!!!SOLD!!!!