RagunCajun

I got mine from Dajogejr's buddy. Works like a champ and both worked with me to get it very quickly and to my needs. Like i told you in chat bbc, if you need 6th, i wouldnt do it. n-down 1-5 dunables are a blessing!

What's the under cut gears options?

Explain what is a lockout, when is it needed. And the pros can cons of it. Same for an override, dunable override. and explain how banshees dont simply dominate 4 strokes in a drag race. That one upset me a lot when i got my banshee years ago. Then explain how just bolting on cub cylinder or other drag ported cylinder doesnt mean it will work. Gotta have a lockup etc. Things like that which people always ask about.

Here's one. I dont think it's clean enough so ill make something better. Ima try to find some video from other sources since i dont have much video.

How about enjoy the banshee as is with toomey pipes. Perhaps upgrade the suspension instead of focusing on engine mods. A better suspension will be easier to ride all day.

Call me lazy then, i use an impact gun. Very lightly though since it has the lock washer.

ran one in my old yz125. ran like a champ till i sold it.

I love my n down duneable override. The n down is a blessing by itself. How hard is it to go all the way down then one up to ht first. Come on now! IMO, the only reason not to get the Above is if you NEED 6th. With 15/41, my bike does awesome in a drag race. Tops out around 70. Throw on some pro wedges and it's clocking 80ish I think but he race is over by then usually.

Just seen this 5 min ago. Ill get with it this weekend if it isnt over by then.

I'm just gonna go head and say it's stupid to put any drag ported cylinders on a trail bike. My 4 mill pulls it's ass off on top end. It's not a cub but it does will for what it is. The only reason i never went to a cub was that i dont like it's power delivery. For me, ported stockers for my riding style is the ticket. Have you ever ridden a cub? The power comes on way to late and it's way to easy to fall off the pipe. Then you can just bolt on a cub and expect the stock clutch etc to hold it. Port the stock cylinders, increase compression and go for it. If i had to trail ride a banshee all the time, i would focus on suspension before i do ANY engine mods.

off topic, i see you have a DSG lightning. I have a built one myself. What mods you got on the L?

Stock carbs worked like a champ on my 4 mil. Dont think you NEED bigger carbs. port the juggs. 4mil set ups get expensive real fast.

Did you mean stock cylinder 4 mil or stock stroke cub? 4mil means 4mil crank(stroked engine). Cub is aftermarket cylinders. You can do both. Cubs are drag only cylinders(a lot dune ride with them too). 4mil Stock cylinders like i have make for some good mid range power. Perfect for a jack of all trades play bike that will hold it's own in a drag. I wouldnt suggest bolting on cub cylinders and expect the bike to be ready.... With all that said, i wouldnt go cub unless i had a drag only bike. Good luck with your decision.

The whole "cant keep the front down thing" is a very broad statement imo. Has to do A LOT with traction. Your squish seems fine. That's how mine is. The person who ported your engine should be able to help you with that and getting the bike running imo. Anyways, here's what it looks/sounds like with a slipping clutch. here's some playing around. Here's some drag racing with no traction. If the pickup gap is too big, the bike will cut out in the higher revs onces it warms up. At least that's what it did to me one time. Did you to a leakdown test?

i keep moving....

I was told compression ratio determines the octane you must use. It's not just what you see on your compression gauge reads. Correct me if im wrong....

ran about 4 gallons through my bike so far at 32:1. c11 fuel. Works fine. Going back to Klotz ones i burn the remaining fuel in the jugg. Doesnt it say on back the bottle how to mix it....

Dont forget not missing shifts. That's a huge advantage. I have a duneable but i say keep the OEM one unless you do a lot of drag racing. Yes it works great and it's even nicer when you have a N down tranny. Plus you gotta make sure you wont need 6th anymore if the type you go with deletes 6th. Here's a vid from sunday. My buddy is riding my banshee all the time. He isnt experienced and it shifts like the day i put it in. Mine came from a guy in MI. And we always pull in the clutch if the rpms are high unless im doing a wheelie. Keep in mind that if you plan to use an override where there's little traction, it might not shift unless you clutch it. And i believe overrides with with a stock shift star or a modded stock one for N down trannys. So having a modded one doesnt matter. Are you having trouble shifting bbc? A better set up can put you ahead in a drag race. Although never missing a shift is nice. I too damn hard IMO making a good trail/drag bike.

WD40 and 0000 steel wool. It does take a while though. Keep it lubed.

Wow is that drawing to scale? If so i didnt think it was that dramatic of a difference. Makes me glad i went with a longrod. But hell, if both work fine, it dont matter to me.

Oh i see. Mines the undercover style as well., but it fits since i have the OEM cover. No bling here:(. I rather the looks of the see through window type but that was over $100 more. That's another good reason to tip it over, saving the oil. At least if you have the finger type, you dont have to go chasing ball bearings all over the garage floor when they spill haha.

In that case, it's just part of having a lockup i guess. thanks for the info fouled.

I've got a 4mil(ported stockers on race gas) with a dunable override. However, i use Vito's style of slingshot. Works great and doesnt slip. I dont know my power level but it's not on par with cubs for sure. I put more ball bearings than recommended just for the hell of it. I've got some before video of my bike and you can hear it slip it's butt off. I slapped in the slingshot and it was perfect. The ONLY thing i dont like about the slingshot styles is you have to tip the bike over on it's side. But for the price it cost, i dont mind.

You dont needa mod anything on your bike. Just change the tranny oil if it hasnt been done recently. Chech the compression and go riding. Enjoy it. There's no need to get balls deep in porting and doing other mods. Suspension would be a nice mod to do but can get pricey. Easy to do since it's just taking the old and putting on the new.

So i finally got my bike set up good so i am putting on my pro armor nerf bars for safety. I rather the look w/o them but the fuction and safety is too good to leave them off. I have the cheaper ones w/o the heal guards. Here's an old picture of my bike to show yall what kind i have. http://rc.superdave2u.com/MyBanshee/new%20nerfs%203-29-07%20%232.JPG As you can see, the front screw on each side(identical) uses the upper engine mount. However, the bolt doesnt go all the way through so i can put a nut on it. So basically the engine is held on by two screws instead of the normal four. What have you guys done about this. Leave it with just two or what? I dont feel good about not securing it all the way. Ima prob run the hardware store tomorrow and do it "right."