I called last year around this time and they were only a couple months away from making them.
Why does he lie?
Anyways, im going back to OEM style plastics.
I have a set from Cascade. However, due to the "awesome" fitment and clearance of the whole exhaust, one side hits the frame and cant be used. You may want to try just using a rubber coupling and two hose clamps from Napa.
As for as the engine, cam can best answer those questions. As for suspension, there's lots of suspension info in the appropriate section. I do enjoy my LT suspension and wider axle. Not cheap but it's a more enjoyable ride.
Pictures arent working. I assume they mean the nut and screw in the center of the basket. I'm about to make a video of that since so many people on fb have no idea how to set it if they cant use the arrows.
The cover comes off easy. Just removed the bolts for the cover. Y also have to remove the shifter as well which is one bolt.
It's recommend to replace the cover bolts with allen head bolts. The stock alan heads strip out too easy.
Youd have to paint or hydrodip the plastic cover. Or get a metal cover like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Banshee-3-piece-Stator-Cover-With-Bearing-Support-no-polish-/282208592146?hash=item41b4f16112:m:my_7kVLSdK5v1olfZxMb5GA&vxp=mtr
No fluids come out where the stator/flywheel cover is. Just a big thick rubber gasket. It usually is fine after removal.
No one is even arguing that......I even own a big bore and stroked engine and i dont think it's king ding a ling compared to a smaller engine.
But we build some bad ass banshee's here and it's no where near 30k. So again, please provide invoices.
The standard clutch cable should work fine. That's what i use on my ASV lever for years. I dont know which level i have though.
If your bars are much higher, i can understand why youd need longer. I'm a short guy, No bar riser here.