volcrano

Are the carbs in sync? Did the carb top come loose on the stator side? Is the left cylinder the one with the carb overflow issue?

Sure wasnt. Go ride your bike in 5 degree weather and blow it up.

http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/snw/4872707830.html I have a really nice shee for sale. I'm at work and doing this from my phone but here is the craigslist ad. This is all legit. Call or txt with any questions, txt usually works best. Hope this link works..

Yeah. I will on the next round. It's confirmed. Motor is shot. Piston rings on left side blew, piston is destroyed, cylinder is gonna need a bore. It seems the crank had excessive play in it also so it's pretty much going to be back to square 1. If anybody knows anyone with a good set of cases and a crank let me know please. The cases didn't get damaged, but the mount that holds the clutch cable was broke on one side and I welded up a tab to hold it. I'd rather just make it all right period. Thanks guys for telling me shit I didn't want to hear

Well it seems that you guys are probably right. I rode it more last night and prob ran another gallon through it. Compression is dropping so yeah, it's toast. I know it's not the right way and I might be in another situation, but I am going to pull the jugs and check ring gap. If I am still in spec, I am going to hone the cylinders again and scuff the rings with 320 grit sandpaper and try to get a seat again, making sure that after I'm done honing I'm in spec also. I figure it's worth a try, it's a $25 gasket kit and a few hours. I'll also start with 27.5 pilots and a 250 main jet and stock closed airbox. I'll report back if rings can be brought back from the dead. Who knows, they might be out of tolerance as soon as I tear it down.

No left side smokes a tad more. I sprayed carb cleaner and could find any idle change. Idle isn't set with tors because it seems like it wants to load up if you idle it low for a minute. No lope idle or slow to rev down though. It's been years since I've rode a stock piped banshee. It feels like it's just luggu and not clean on the bottom but after it warms up its decently responsive and revs clean from mid to top. I do agree with some jetting though since I'm half turn on my pilot so i know i need a 27.5 and the top kinda flattens, so I'm sure it could use a lil bigger main too as you suggested. Didn't know if I should reject during break in since there will be blow by until rings seat and I didn't want to overload the fuel to it and have it burble. Plugs are black and wet though. I'd like to get some sort of color before I jet. When I run it under a load they are dry but a lil gray. When I get it hot by just revving under a load and check plug they are wet though, but that's no load. It's to the break in point that I should not be doing the heat cycles no load, I need to get my ass on the street and give er hell.

No i did the hone not a machine shop. I gauge the bore and it looked good and not out of round. I didn't check piston to wall clearance though, just set the rings in there and measured gap. In all honesty, the .012 gap was tight, like they were slightly under that and might have been a tad too tight and that's what gave me the metallic oil on the plugs. Maybe I should have had it bored idk. The budget build isn't so budget now. I guess if I'm going to have to get back in there anyway, I'm going to finish a full tank and check compression then. If it's low, it will get redone. It's worth a try if I'm gonna spend the cash anyway. Thanks for the help!

Oh, and yes its still starting with those readings. It's a Cornwell comp gauge so I hope it's not bad, it's only been used like 5 times and is a year old. Or should I get a full tank of fuel in it and then see where the comp is and tear it down then. I mean when it warms, it pulls pretty good and wants to lift wheels sometimes just cruising, that's why it doesn't seem like it's that trashed...

Well that's the thing man. When i switched heads, I didn't really see any cross hatching and a few vertical scores, which Is why it's bothering me. If I pull and hone the jugs and go, or should I swap rings? Or is it possible to run some 1000 grit on the rings quick with the hone? I'm irritated about the shitty head and trying not to spend another 60 in rings, but if it needs done it needs done. Then if that is the case, what jetting should be needed for the super stocks on oem set up?

Hey man you could be right. It might be washed out. That's why I'm trying to find answers. The reeds aren't in bad shape, but I flipped them as they weren't fully seated. I know that can deal with compression. They are dual stage Boyes end and there is like a very slight gap on the outer reeds, not the ones that seat on the cages. I have a new set coming.

Damn spell check, re-rung i meant.

Ok well if it's "toast", can I hone the jugs and try again or will it need to be re-run also? And how should it be lean with stock air system? Not being a cock if it sounds like it, just trying to understand the need for more fuel with stock pipes and box. Also, when should the motor build it's compression limit while breaking in? I mean after a few heat cycles and load runs it will be fully seated or will it take like a tank of fuel? It might have a half a gallon of fuel run through it.

Eh maybe i didn't state i honed, my bad, but yes I did.

Yes I stated I honed the jugs and checked ring gap after. I know the jetting is close to stock but it has stock pipes and the plugs are wet as hell. It has foam filter and airbox lid also. I am doubting it ran lean as it fogged the neighborhood when it was starting. Even with the simulated porting of the piston, no more air was given than stock.

Coolant leak possibly washed rings from seating. I bought the bike as a basket case. Rebuilt the bottom and top end, using stock 64mm jugs and head. Put new vito Superstock forged pistons in it. Ring gap at .012. Started the bike going through heat cycles. First few the plugs were like wet gray oily. It had about 3 10 minute heat cycles with no load from idling to revving and in between. Changed the head and gasket to a set up I knew worked. Not leaking any coolant, and honestly I'm not sure if it was during the beginning, but the wet metallic shit didn't seem right. Anyway, not trying to make a novel, but I took it for 2 heat cycles after that under a load and the bike doesn't run bad, it is a little sluggish at bottom but starts clearing up. Few backfires here and there not constant. I got it hot and checked compression. 70 in the left and right and it drips to 35 before it holds. The question is, is it possible it is still breaking in and will build compression, or should I take it as the rings are glazed and pull it? I had thought about pulling jugs and honing them and putting them back on with the same rings. The bike starts on the 4th kick at half choke. Left pipe smokes a little more than right. Jetting is 25 pilots 1/2 turn out to keep good response, and 210 mains. Stock pipes. I hope it just needs the shit beat out of it and will build compression. You think it has broke in enough? Thanks guys.

Like the title says if anybody knows anybody let me know thanks

Is the clutch basket loose?? I need one bad as mine is loose. Might be interested in a package deal with you on the intakes and boost bottle as well. Let me know what's up

Is the clutch basket loose on the gear?

If u part it I need clutch set up and transmission

Thanks bro. Thats the next stop. I figured id see if my hq brothers wanted dibs first.

Up for offers..bump.

Txt 3304142899 for pics

Checking interest on a fresh painted perfecr no dent dynoport 2 in 1 with brand new fresh packing? Has semi polished silencer and dynoport sticker even (if u care). Asking 250 shipped to your door. If interested, ill post pics later on the bike and pull it in 3 mins and ship before saturday. Lemme know. Faster response, pm me it will go to email and buzz phone.

Yeah I saw that. Thats pretty much the only info I can find on them. Im trying to find what the power range is for them .I think the only way ill find it is by someone chiming in first hand.

Looks lean to me. Better pic of porcelain like looking down on it from up top. Make sure the motor is at operating temp then put in new plug. Do wfo and shut it off. Pull plug and ride back on others or shut off wfo where ur stopping to work. It looks like that plug had a lil ride time before the chop. The plug should only be used for the wfo at operating temp, thats it. Also, u better get a lottery ticket and a few beers for the dirtbikers.