number52

OK, Finally got somewhere on this thing today! I love when others try to work on something and mess it up even more. Had more than 1 thing wrong was the main problem. First, it was jetted WAY too rich with 280 mains. Next, the TORS was making it idle really bad, and then the adjusters on the carbs to sync them weren't even close (took it apart on the other side and they did control the idle and sync - You were correct on that Blessed!) Now, where do I begin on jetting? I put it all back to stock and I'm sure that it's a little lean by the way it pulls from 1/4 to full throttle! It came with a DynoJet kit that has longer, but slimmer needles in it, but the lowest jetting size is a 240 other than the stock 200's. Thanks again everyone.

That screw is to set the TORS switch free play. If you take the side cover off you can see what I'm talking about. Anyone else have any ideas?

It has the TORS So that does me no good, thanks though

I know those silencers don't do much, but it's not my bike! I'm trying to sync the carbs, but it has the TORS crap on there still. Both slides start to actuate at the same time, but when you hold the throttle wide open and look in the windows, one is farther up than the other. How do you adjust this?

Have a friends banshee that is completely stock except it has FMF silencers on it. He tried installing a jet kit and now it runs like crap. I pulled the carbs and he had 280 mains in it. I put stock 200 jets back in it and 25 pilots. Now it starts, but idles high then low and back and forth. It runs fine on top end. Any thoughts?

Ok, I worked for 3 more hours on this POS! Here is what I've done. Put a new hose on between carbs where the choke is - didn't make a difference, think it may have made it worse because this bike is running WAY too rich. Purchased a new DynoJet kit for it because I have no idea what the person before me did to it. Put new needles in and noticed that one of the needles I took out was like 1/4" longer than the other carburetor. WTF. Installed DynoJet needles on 4th clip like the instructions said - didn't make a difference, still bogs with airbox lid ON, take the lid off and bogs on 0-1/2 throttle then once it cleans out it takes off. Then I pulled the carbs back off and replaced the 220 mains with the 280's like everyone on here is telling me to do. Also completely went through the carburetors, pulled out all the jets, even the air jet to the main jet. Pulled out reeds and it has Boysen Carbon Fibers with reed cage in it and they look very good, no cracks or pieces missing. Also installed new plugs at this time too. Bike runs way worse, will only run about 5 mph with lid on and about 15 with lid off, bogs all the time. Anyone got another idea? Pulled plugs and they are always soaked and there is fuel and oil mix coming out of where the pipe and silencer meet.

about 500 above sea level

Thank you everyone for your help. I'm sure this is the cause to the way too rich jetting. Still can't figure out why Yamaha had to put two carbs on this bike and the Craptor. And the TORS system is a pain in the rear too! I'll start at around 280 mains and needle on the next to the bottom clip position. If that main jet sounds too small please let me know. Not familiar with the Banshee's at all. I guess that's what you get when someone else try's to work on a bike that doesn't know what their doing!

This could be the problem, there is no hose that attaches both carburetors together. I hope this is the fix. Thanks again

All TORS is unplug. 2 wires from carburetor, TORS box, Parking brake switch, and thumb throttle switch. Don't know what crossover tube you're talking about exactly, but if it's the aluminum one that connects both intake boots together, then yes it's on there.

I know a lot about carburetors and how they work and how each circuit works. That's why I'm so confused. The bike wouldn't run right at all with the 250 mains in so I removed the airbox and started to get some revs. That means it was too rich. So I dropped to a 220 main and ran better on top and a little better mid, but still took forever to clean out. So I lowered the needles to cut off some fuel on mid throttle, helped out. Looking on line I saw that I was only 1 jet size larger than stock and I was still running rich with the airbox lid off is what made me think something isn't right! I've done all of the above before I started this post. Fuel is brand new VP110 at 32:1 mix Honda HP2. Plugs are new, but are soaking wet with airbox lid on. If it was electrical I don't think it would run good at any RPM range! If it was an air leak then I would be fighting a lean condition. I just purchased a Dyno Jet jet kit and hopefully will give me some more insight. I will try the 290's just to be sure, but I think it will only get worse! Also have another set of plugs coming too. And yes, the carb slides are in correct and the bowls are on the correct carbs. If anyone else can think of anything please let me know. This bike was brought to me and I don't know what was done to it before I got it. Thanks again

I've already done plug chops. The plugs look great with the lid off and are soaking wet with the lid on at WOP. Throw the lid on and it just bogs and will only run about 15 MPH. Take the lid off and it still lags big time like it's loading up then bang, the power hits and your gone, then once on top for a couple seconds it starts to stumble a little like it's still a hair bit rich.

First off, this Banshee is driving me nuts. Would run above 1/4 throttle, so I put a TORS eliminator kit on it, still ran like crap and just wouldn't rev up. The only thing it has are Pro Circuit pipes and a silencer. It had 250 mains in it so I went down to 220 mains and it helped a little, but when I went to ride it still wouldn't rev out. So I took the airbox lid off and then it would rev sometimes. I pulled the needles out and they were set at the second from the bottom so I moved them up to the second from the top setting. Now with the airbox lid off it will run great at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. And on top end it will run fine then once on top more than 2-3 seconds it will stumble pretty bad. I tried turning the air screw out and it seems to help somewhat, but I can imagine that it is this rich with the jetting I have and the airbox lid on? There is also tons of oil residue coming out of where my pipe and silencer meet. Any thoughts please. Thanks

Still don't know what you mean about having the correct bowls on? Aren't they the same?

TORS is completely unhooked, black box, parking brake switch on left handlebar, throttle switch, and both carb tops. Slides have angled part facing towards back of machine. What's the difference between the carb bowls and which one goes where? Thanks for the help.