volcrano

like it says,nice shiny no rust.just repacked.little blueing at cyls is ok.if any interest will send pics.

mopar,i know this hasnt been the nicest conversation thru the whole toppic and i really must say after all of the mouth that has gone on,i have no bad blood with anybody.i know people post from what they know and try to help.i got a little ridiculous and i apologize for my language and whatever.im only trying to get to the bottom of the problem.there is still some whatever posts from people that just have nothing good to say.i understand what u are saying and appreciate we are back on a technical level so thank u for that.i understand everything u are saying,but the jugs have been pulled and the rings are way out of factory tolerance.rebuild time.

you at least need to run a mic thru the bore.its very possible its egg-shaped from wear and your going to be throwing your money away if u just do a re-ring.if the cyl is within tolerance and u hone it,u could re-ring it,but not recommended.if ur pistons were only like a year old or something and forged,thats a different story,but even then i would still put new top end bearings and rings on too.new piston and rings are always recommended in a rebuild,but like i said,if its forged and doesnt have too many hours and want to save money,could be a way to go.first off tho,check ur bore size down thru the cylinder to see where ur at.

update,after gettin some info from sleeper06,i ended up pulling the jugs to find the rings are way worn.so,it must have good kicking compression,but since the rings werent sealing properly,leaking compression while running,under loads,etc.blowby must have been a major contributor to the extreme rich condition,so time for a top end.so,to all of the guys who tell me im lean,and i say no im not,then i say when i richen it,it runs worse,im glad i ride a "volcrano tuned" banshee.cuz some of u think when ur shits running rich,u add bigger jets lmfao.who knows,i might have to upjet after rebuild now,ill have to check plugs,how it pulls,this and that,but it was rich,which i stated in the 2nd post and started getting flack beacause of it.well,sleeper06 put the symptoms together and i thank him for helping me figure out what was up,and not posting dumb shit like "ur shits gonna blow up".glad u guys arent working on my shit,prob wouldnt make it out of the driveway.

wow.not trying to be an internet tough guy bud,i dont care what u do honestly.see,this is where asking a question gets people,dumb ass replies.just dont reply in my post anymore dude.i dont care what u have to say really.and im a little kid,really,ur buddy has a moped lol.i bet u built a stroker handmade for ur vespa huh.im done with this post,let the shit talking begin.cant believe this is the way it goes.

no,my 4mill has 340s,the stock bike with pipes and head and lid is 230.like i said ill go up on the mains,i just dont think its gonna like it.

nice!ravenna,maynard james keenans hometown.my chick works out in that area.dude i totally understand and appreciate the input.i honestly think that im going to leave it alone and throw 280s in the carbs with the lid on,to either eat my words and put this fucker to rest or pull lid.im telling ya tho,plugs are BLACK at wfo.if it ever stops raining and can give it a good run after the rejet.if im wrong,ill totally apologize,but the plugs and solid lid tell me different.hey,whats it gonna hurt.so everybody that said i was lean,ill bring this post back up when i rejet how bout that.i will tell the truth if its all good,im not that proud.

ill post pics of a warmed up wfo plug tomorrow.im tired,going to bed.ull see.im not trying to be a dick,it doesnt want to be richer.unless what sleeper06 said,ts tired.p.s.u have a port job.when my shit was ported the builder said go from 280 to 340.which i think is 6 sizes,idk,might wanna have moronroller to the math for me.so since im not ported,230+60=290.so close.im getting tired of this post already.

lol,dont let windy see that,ive read his posts lol.although cam loves his stage 4 pipes i never thought to grab a boost bottle.that must be the difference.im trying to smile guys.help a white boy out of the drama lol.

hey,um retard,glad you did the math so we all could see how smart u are.good for u!!a++++++++ ralphie!fuckstick.jesus.like i said,i dont want ur stupid ass remarks,and yes,i do believe u need to go up 5 sizes removing the lid from a 230.whats different going up 8 with pipes and no lid u assclown!is there a jetting standard since in ur book,every bike and elevation is identical?listen to urself and how stupid u sound before u post dumb shit.u sound like the stupidest fucker on the planet.cant ride.yeah ok.show me a stock bike pull a wheelie till 6th without humping the grab bar.i want mine to pull sitting on the gas tank,and my 4 mil is nasty and only pulls till 4th sitting up so shut ur dicksucker.god damn son.i wanna drill u in the throat,but ur not here so anyway.larry,well put,and like i was gonna do before all this stupid nonsense,was pull the lis and go 280s.like i said,ill post the results.windycityjohn,very good point and i was thinking that since the lid does richen all circuits not just main,which all combine with each other so it makes sense.gonna pull lid anyway,the only way to try and make the power and see what happens.larry and windy i thank u for actually being helpful and not smart ass internet punnks like these other douches.its seems like everybody wants to be an asshole here and not give good or neutral info.ive heard alot of people going to ther sites because of this and as much as i like this site because its banshee only,it seems easier to get solid info not dumbshit somewhere else.i appreciate the few that actually know whats going on,when u got the others that want to get a post count up and dont know shit from a hole in their ass.sad when ur like,"why did i even ask a question,when i know im gonna have to deal with morons and their responses".sad..

ok pro,then y does it blubber like a bitch up top with a solid lid with no holes in it,richening it.i dont need any smart ass clowns being dicks.the question i asked was if the more air from lid being off and raising the fuel to a say 280 would make that big of a difference.no one has told me,they all say u are too fucking lean.dude,i dont give a shit what u say,im running the bike and riding it,not u.so since my question hasnt been answered,which i already know raising mains and air will make it run harder,ill just do it.i didnt think this was gonna get into a pissing match over a fucking question.grammar police?i dont get it,but whatever.u put 310s in a bike with a lid!wow.

i know what rich is and what lean is.i know how it sounds and what it feels like.just by looking at the plugs,when they are wet and black,its rich,so its not going to blow up.its had this jetting since i bought it when it had a dynoport 2 in 1 that i changed to twins..pretty sure if it hasnt blown up in the years its been like that,its not going to now.i going to pull the lid and throw in 280s.the bike has the lid on now,so 230 is not a lean jetting with a lid,ill post pics of a wfo plug if u like.the question i really wanted to know was will it wake upp that much adding more fuel and air.i know it definately will,just dont know how much.i mean,its been so long since ive ridden just a piped and headed banshee,are they supposed to pick up easy lol?my 4mm is retarded and u cant keep the front down,but this aint that lol.its fast,it will pick up like a foot lol.ill just add the fuel and air and report back.i dont really wanna do a rebuild on it quite yet.according to noss on a fresh rebuild with 20cc at 1300 it should have 155.not bad for what it has being 15 years old on original bore and piston.i still saw some hash marks on cyl. when i pulled head.this bike was never abused and i dont think it has many hours on it.thanks fellas.

x1000.i scrapped mine.got $1 and garage space.not one person will ever do that trade.get on ebay and pull ur wallet out.

1300 ft. 20cc domes.93 octane.stock bore and port.

sounds lean on bottom circuit.richen the pilot air screws 1/4 at a time inward,equally to both carbs until problem subsides.go 1/4 turn in,then wait about 10 seconds for motor to catch up to changes and ride.repeat as necessary.look up the jetting sticky to see if u nees to go to a different pilot.prob. not,esp. if u are stock.any mods u have done?that will also help diagnosis,but i would richen air screws.

actually with the lid,its too rich.is the lid and jetting keeping the power down?i mean,its running rich,but it loves it.i guess i wanna know this because im torn between running open or with lid.i guess if rejetting and removing the will will make it hit hard,i might do it,then again,its soooooo smooth right now i dont wanna touch it lol.

i put a chariot head on my stocker.150 in rt.,145 in left hole.pro circuit pipes,to be fmf gold series soon.everything else stock but a tusk clutch.the lid is on with the 6 round filters in the lid,no snorkel.jetting is 27.5 pilot,mid needle and 230 mains.it runs very smoth and responsive,but dont wanna pull the wheels.clutch isnt slipping either.is it choked down with the lid and small mains causing this?i think so,but want opinions.i really like the lid as this is my everyday rider and want to keep it sealed up for the elements (air box).i still would figure it to rip with these mods and set up the way it is.any ideas fellas??

what?fuck that.i wouldnt ever use one and dont see how or why u would to find tdc.look at the flywheel and check piston location by slipping a long screwdriver to just rest on the piston so u can see where its at its top furthermost part.that is the most ridiculous tool ive ever seen for these.x2 on the inpact.half the time u dont even have to hold anything,just put it on at blip it loose.easy.

i thonk cascade innovations has clamp on sparkys.also,toomey sells the spark arrested hush kit.its about $190 tho.

15t front and try again.

was the top end noisy at all?u would think if the clearance was that far out,ud hear some clanking,at least till hot.did u have any idle/driveability problems to sway to a lean situation?did he hog out the ports on the piston to match his "drag port"?

well check for spark first,then go from there.verify no spark.disconnect tors brain,over left pipe under frame and check fopr spark again,if none present earlier.

yes u can.did u check that there is the slide cutout towards the back?just switch them anyway,thats what happened.a bike will never run rich by changing a cable.slides are in the wrong carb.

i agree with 06.ur definately too lean.i gotta ask,if its all stock,y did u put pods on it???air screws only adjust air/fuel from idle to 1/4 throttle.1/4 to 3/4 is needles and clip position,and 3/4 to wfo is main jet.check out the sticky.

x2