you will end up with a bike that handles worse. It will also make the shocks softer from the wider pivot point(the leverage thing happening) which will bottom out easier and handle worse in corners.
i have had a problem with the linkage on the end of the shift shaft binding up(it within the clutch cover).
I solved the problem by replacing it with an rz unit.
reeds - get some carbon techs and modify the cages
noss head - good luck getting one in aus, would suggest pro design
inline cooler - save your money they do jack all
porting - good choice but dont modify the exhaust port too far.
crank welding - good for durability and if your gona match port the cylinder to case you might as well do it.
new pistons + rings - get wisecos.
timing plate - jmc do one for $120au or modify yours(its free)
Pipes - you will notice a differance in the power curve.
k+n - get yourself a unifilter. I have found they filter much better
rejet - yeah you better.
extended swingarm - this will suck on dirt trails
These are all from my personal experiances with performance products and racing banshees in australia. Otheres will have different views but this is my two cents worth
i ran best time of 14.8 and 86.8 mph. Bike was jetted too rich and was 4stroking once it hit a certain rpm. will get it rejetted and have another go.
My engine mods are in signature and note the exhaust port on my cylinders is completely standard.
the more advance you give the engine, it will have more time to burn before tdc so therefore the more advance the leaner the engine gets.
For plus 4degress you may have to go up on size on the main
Is the slide held in with 2 screws? If so(which i am sure it is) you need to remove these and pull the slide from the carb body.
Pull the spring back and the cable retainer should come out with the spring. If not you will see it when you pull the spring back, The cable will pop out once the retainer is out off the way.
You need a big rubber mallet or a good peice of hard wood to place over the end of the axle, then have fun trying to hit that puppy out.
PS Take the axle nuts off first
30mins is more than enough. Also sandblast your steel plates, you will get better grip and life from your clutch. also if you have done a few mods to increase performance a set of heavyier clutch springs will be required
I ran mine down the quarter for the first time last night. Problem was it was running too rich and bogging on top end. I forgot my jets so i could not change em. Had to short shift it.
I managed for my best time 14.8 and my best mile was 86.8
When i get the jetting sorted out i will retest. I should break into the 90's no prob. I need to work on my starts too, they where terrible. I was running stock swingarm and shocks and it just wanted to wheelie out of the start.
i does not have to look like a mirror! But it should look neat and be simetrical!
Have a look at those intake ports, i do not believe that a professional did these, was he on the turps when porting them???
i have resurched this as i have an rz tranny sitting on the shelf at home. I have basically concluded that if you ride in 5th and sixth alot on your banshee then you would benifit from it. If you ride your banshee in 4th and lower most then stick with the banshee. Rz box would be really benifical if you where running tall gearing on the shee due to the close ratio in the top 3 gears.
RZ350 ----- Banshee
1st - 2.57:1 ----- 2.461:1
2nd - 1.778:1 ----- 1.812:1
3rd - 1.318:1 ----- 1.500:1
4th - 1.083:1 ----- 1.250:1
5th - 0.962:1 ----- 1.045:1
6th - 0.889:1 ----- 0.875:1