Aussie Quad Racer

you want the "rd350 ypvs" barrels and head(aka rz350). the none ypvs rd 350's had different stud pattern and old porting designs. But its not that simple. These cylinders have electronic controlled power valves and different exhaust mounts. I know this cause i have an rz350 as well as my banshee. To do the conversion properly you will need the following 1. Cylinders and head 2. CDI 3. Stator and flywheel 4. harness 5. powervalve control unit 6. powervalve motor and cables

for every 1mm the plate turns(at outside circumferance) it is equal to 1 degree

yeah and if its good enough to keep planes in the air then its good enough for your quad

metal pads will not fade like fibre under hard race conditions.

have a play with a few different designs and see what you like best.

Listen hear and listen good. You have options that WILL solve it 1. Polish the carb slide hole to a mirror finish. (worked for me) 2. Replace your slides with metal chrome slides (A definate fix) 3. Buy yourself some modern carbs

you can modify your fuel tap but the design of the tap will not allow any more flow. All you will be doing is moving the t piece up the line. The fuel will still be restricted buy its entry into the fuel tap.

they way i look at it is the more revs your gona ride at the more lubrication your gona need. The more oil you use the more protection your engine has so therefore your engine will last longer. Personally i would not mix it any leaner than 32:1 Have any of you guy read a book called "Two Stroke Performance Tuning" by "A. Grahem Bell"? He has a good chapter on lubrication. He found no power gain by running leaner oil mixtures and proved that the scuffing on the pistons was dramatically increased. He recomends 20:1 for hi reving road racers and 24:1 for mx/enduro bikes.

i have had to grind one off before cause it was frozen onto the axle. If i had of tried to unscrew it, it would have damaged the thread on the axle

when switching from clamp on k+n to clamp on unifilters i had no differance in performance and jetting changes where not required

thats is 3banshee cylinders on a custom made case(or extendend i should say)

if these are the kits that you put a new sleave into you banshee cylinders then all you are doing is makeing your already small transfers even smaller. You will see better performance from the 400cc aftermarket cylinders than from banshee cylinder with 420cc sleave

there is quite a few strong motors running a single carb. Dont think that this will limit your mods

i will get some pics when i have finished tuning and testing. I will then remove it and sand all the welds so its a finished product

yes for maximum performance you want a taylored ignition curve to suit you engine. Unfortunatly these cdi systems are costly and require dyno time to set them up. A cheep and afordable option is the stator plate or offset keyway

that extra wire hasnt fallen out the back of the main stator plug?

It is still in testing on the bike and i have not yet sanded all the welds back. I designed it using plenum chamber design rules for multicylinder engines It feeds from the carb into a plenum chamber and then has the intake runners at each end of the plenum. The idea behind the plenum chamber is that it allows an even supply to each cylinder.

i have designed and build my own single carb manifold from alloy. i have found extreamly strong bot-mid and still revs out on top.

they are there to protect them from objects hitting the shaft and chipping the chrome. If you dont follow other riders where you can get hit with a roost then you dont need em, but i would suggest to use them. I have used regulare motorbike fork boots with success

by the "1.00" i would say 1mm over which is a 65mm bore

The reason why is because you engine needs all that fuel to run right. You have 2 x 390 jets. That 390 = 390cc per minute maximun flow. So when your at max throttle opening and flow your pumping 780cc of juice a minute. 1000cc is 1 litre and your tank holds 12 so if you where to ride with the trottle wide open for about 15mins your tank would be empty. I would say you prob get around 1 an 1/2 hours before refill on general riding am i correct?

ATF

I am going to put on a single mikuni 34mm flat slide power jet carb and would like some sort of base specs to work from so if you have a similar setup please post your specs

Buy yourself a billet head with orings. Will save you money in the long run. It used to cost me $100au in gaskets to tear down the motor. I now make my own base gaskets and with the orings(which dont need replacing on every inspection) i save money. How much is it for head and base gaskets in the USA?

it does not matter a shit. the lines are probably from the sheet of gasket paper that they cut them from