Aussie Quad Racer

Banshees are still available in Australia http://www.yamaha-motor.com.au/products/atv/sports/10-banshee-350

i have not recieved a response from you?

yes i have paypal, shipping address is 16 Robert Street Mudgeeraba QLD 4213 Australia If you could add the shipping price then i will pay

if your willing to send to australia then you have a sale

have you sold the cylinders yet?

im after the 2-1 carb manifold that bolts to the cylinders, i dont need the carb or airbox adaptor. thou if you have complete setup i may be interested

you do not need to upgrade stator if you going hid, they only draw 35w each, you will however need to alter the wiring and run a dc regulator

it will work but may notice the light flickering

bing carb is a simple carb with high and low speed adjustments only, very simple no good for banshee

your slides are sticking open due to the moisture, it is common on banshee carbs, solutions are different carbs, heavier springs in carb or you can try polishing the inside of the carb where the slide runs. This is why yamaha has tors, they knew all along this would happen, road bikes using same carbies in late seventies suffered from it in the rain

anyone have a stator assembly includes stator, plate and pickup they are willing to ship to australia at my expence of course

are you willing to sent to australia? if so im willing to buy front end pending price of freight

i beg to differ, i can alter the exhaust port timing on that motor which will reduce static compression but will result in higher stress on the motor in the top end. therefore requiring higher grade fuel. Fuel should be determined on numerous factors

There is no reason why it would run hot by running straight water, but there is 3 reasons why we run coolant in the system. 1. to increase boiling point. 2. to reduce corosion 3. to reduce freezing points I do not recommend running straight water in any engine only due to the increase in corrosion that will occur

depends on furthur plans for the bike and your type of riding, i suggest and prefer the single carb setup though

i use toyota long life coolant at 50/50

190psi +4 timing on 98 octane no problems. Static compression is not an accurate meas to gauge what fuel you should run

if your after more bottom end, have you considered a single carb setup

stock head - nothing, it is a compression gasket and should not require sealant, if it keeps blowning you have other isses, fix the broblem dont hide it with sealant stock base - nothing, the come impregnated with threebond cases - three bond

after a rebuild many years ago i noticed a clicking noise at idle, i diagnoised it down to the reed valves snapping shut due to increased crankcase compession, this may be your noise

static compression is irelivant, the more you increase the exhaust port timing, the lower the static compression will be but the higher the stress when the engine is running under load

no the pins are not essential, use a high quality japanese made bearing in a c3 grade and you will be fine consult your local bearing shop. If you have a guy building your crank he should know whats best, talk to him.

old vm mikuni carbs with teflon coated slides commonly partially stick when cold or wet, thats why yamaha put tors on, the old rd350 road bike had problem with this in the rain when they got older, your solutions to the problem is 1 refit the tors, (its a brilliant saftey device that just might save your ass one day) 2 polish the inside of the carb where the slide runs with metal polish (seamed to work for me) 3 find some chrome slides (good luck)

when the piston is at bottom dead centre, the piston top should be level with the bottom of the exhuast port

i got them from the local bike wreckers. I completely solved the problem by using a single 34mm mikuni flatslide powerjet carb