Aussie Quad Racer

If you take the cylinders off your banshee you will notice that there are two cavities directly below the intake port in the top case. When the cylinders are in place these are just a traped air pocket that do nothing. My idea is that you devcon these cavities up and drill 2 8mm(5/16) holes through them into the crankcase(one in each cavity). If the holes are drilled correctly they should have a nice smooth and straight entry from the bottom of the crankcase area. The reason i would devcon them up is to make it a perfect tube. Next place the cylinders onto the top case and drill into the bottom of the intake track using the holes you have drilled through the top case. This will give you 2 matched ports from the crankcase area back into the inlet track. My idea behind this is that it will allow a better flow and feed to the boost port. The intake charge will run through the piston windows as normal and swirl around the crancase. These ports(if drilled correctly) will be directly in the path of the air/fuel mixture as it rotates around the crankcase and help feed the boost port as they will shoot straight up to it and make it act more like a transfer port than a boost port. I would like to here all views and comments antone has to say on this matter!

its probably something simple like you swaped the carb bowls on the carbs by mistake. This will make the choke not opperate and hard to start the bike. Pour a teaspoon of fuel down each plug hole and see if it fires.

stock 28s? stock carbs are 26mm. With your mods in your sig i would suggest 35s as it sounds as thou you like dragging. 35's will get you better top end and over rev

I use automatic transmission fluid with great results and clutch life.

the basket is like that from the factory so no concern there. How does the rod feel on that piston when you move it? How do the mains feel? can you grab the flywheel and move it up and down?

i have replyed to your post in the other section. please post in one section only

Both bowls have a brass tube, this is the overflow tube. The carb with the choke lever has a brass tube extending down from the body into the bowl where as the other carb doesn't. If you look at the bowls you will see the orifice where this tube will slide into. One bowl will have the bottom of the orifice drilled out to the main fuel area where the otherone will not. It is important to match the bowl with the drilled orifice to the carb with the chock lever and brass tube for the choke to operate.

you can do it but the is no real need

If you re-read my post it states "Runing a vehicle on a dyno to see how much power is really pointless, runing it on the dyno to tune it is a great idea. " By this i mean running your bike on the dyno without any intension to tune or mod and just get a figure is a waste of time and money. To tune the bike on the dyno and/or mod it a great idea(as stated in my original post). I ran mine on the dyno to tune it not to get a figure.

remember all dynos read drifferent and in the end the peak hp means nothing. Runing a vehicle on a dyno to see how much power is really pointless, runing it on the dyno to tune it is a great idea.

5 watts for tail lights and 14.4 is perfect voltage when revs are up. At idle you will probably have below 12v.

less than 45 to get my bike to 50hp it took unifilter clamp ons stock carbs ported cages with carbon tech reeds ported intakes, match transfers to case and sharpend up transfer bridge 0.040 over wisecos shaved head(150psi) pro curcuits Thats 50 rear wheel horsepower in 5th gear. 5th gear is basically 1:1 so it gives you best reading. Its easy to make a hp chart look higher by running it up a gear lower.

its just a matter of putting the rz shift forks into your banshee. Requires case spliting.

have you had the cylinders off? its not leaking out the bottom bungs of the cylinders into the crankcase?

Blue Duece - i can provide you with a time slipe if you like. There at my g/f's house, i will scan the on with my quickest et and one with fastest mph.

For those without a hone a bit of patiance and some sand paper will do the same job. You might think its dodgy but this was a tip that came from a bike shop and i had to do it on my last rebuild, compression is still fine 7 month later!

yes that looks like a mikuni vm34 with a powerjet. The power jet works well with engines that are running large sized mains. Of cause you will have to make your main smaller when running powerjets. In mikunis tune manual it says that WOT should draw 3/4 fuel from main and 1/4 from power jet for best operation. I was playing with different size powerjets in my mikunis and had to change emultion tube with the powerjets to keep the midrange throttle openings correct

Forget trying to test the voltage at the coil of a CDI system, its impossible to get an accurate reading. Do you have a mate with a banshee? easiest way is to swap components from a running bike. Do you have your key switch on?

i have a proven 90mph down the quarter from my mods listed below. as far as top speed i dont know, the bike still had more in it (17,40 sprockets) but i doubt it would hit 100mph. At those speeds the wind resistance is huge

ive had it happen before, emultion tube and needle have a smaller area than the main to let fuel out so the main jet is not playing any part. You can either change needles and emultion tubes to suit the needles or run power jets.

sorry not interested in drag port

wanted, 1 set of banshee cylinders, anything considered as long as they are in working order, May accept a set that need resleaving at the appropriate price. Will pay shipping to australia.

is your emultion tube too small and not allowing the fuel to get past the needle that the larger jet is trying to deliver? 2 things i have never seen anyone consider on this forum is emultion tube size and slide cutaway.

You can buy a coolhead for the rz cylinders. It is listed on prodesigns website

from reading through that ebay auction, i gather that the guy has no idea what he is on about and is a wanker!. I like how he states "the head is not included just incase you wanted to get a cool head for it but i will sell it to you for anouther $35 after auction"