Washburn

Free bump. When I first got the Banshee I went to the shop I usualy go to for parts and work. I can ride my Banshee there. This guy came out and said he had an IMS 5.6 for 50.00. He said it was used for a season. I told him I doubt it like a dick cause I thought for some reason they were 70.00 new. LOL when I found out how much they really cost I tryed to get Cody to call him and get him to bring it back to the shop but he said he sold it ::

How much Cash? Why do you have an extended swingarm on it with just cam mods? Do you still have the stock swingarm?

Me and my buddie are going to look at 450s for him in a few hours. What are you looking to get straight cash? We live in Pittsburgh but we will come look at it if the price is rite. I dont like how the older modles arent true 450ccs and dont have the oil pump in them but they can be installed it just costs. You can call me 412-687-8390 ask for Neil or leave a message with your name why your calling and return number.

EDIT: A stock swingarm is 18" center to center and weighs 13.5lbs

You NEED a Clymers manual. Its is considered the Banshee Bible. It tells you in detail with pictures how to work on your bike and do genaral matinence. Your plugs should be a nice tan color. For break in run it around some trails for 15 minutes and take it easy. Let it cool all the way down and then do a practice lap without hitting WOT for another 15 minutes. Let it cool down again then get on it and accelarate and deaccelerate while your ripping through the track/trails/ or dunes. Thats how I do it alot of people have their own methods. Always use premium gas 91 or higher octane mixed at 32:1 and Yamalube 2-R is a good break in oil and it can be used after break in. I use Maxima Castor 927 for everything. Its all about prefrence on oil too alot of people here use Klotz Supertechniplate. Any of those oils will be good for and after break in. For gear oil I use Motorex Synthetic 30w http://www.ktm-parts.com/Merchant2/merchan...t_Code=36030002. I used to use Yamalube 4 30w and Ive ran Bel Ray Gear saver. Again any of those oils will work for your tranny/Clutch. You can pull your clutch in going down hills while useing the rear breaks but you will have to learn what gear to be in when you let it out. Practice! your motor will tell you what gear you should be in. You can Leave the TORS on it probably wont bother you but it can and it makes the bike harder to work on with the housing on top of the carbs. I would take them off and get a killswitch. I still need to take mine off it was giving me problems so I unpluged it for now.

Still Looking

Routine matnince like stated above and your banshee will last as long as you keep it up. You will learn to jet according to how it runs/sounds keep an eye on your plugs. I recomend running your premix with 93 octane at 32:1 with Yamalube 2-R or castrol 927. Tranny oil Yamalube 4 30w 1.5 qts change it about every 20 hours. For Coolant run a 50/50 blend like Maxima or Honda HP 50/50 You need that anitfreeze for the colder weather. For going down long steep hills try 2-3rd gear while useing the rear break. Dont slam on the pedal use enough pressure to keep control of the bike while useing the gears. In time you will be able to pull the clutch in going down hills and know what gear you want to get into to slow down useing the break if needed or speed up it just takes some time but once you get the hang of it its like second nature. Going up hills start in first hit the hill in second and shift to 3rd if needed. Dont go to big rite away just because you have the power. Know your gears,Body position,the way the bike handles and the line of the hill. When I started I would start with smooth shorter hills and practice going up about quarter of the way letting off the throttle and coming back down the hill to get the hang of going backwards.

Rite on, Tell him you build custom ATV racers and you need a celeb in your portfolio. 18" flip screen Plasmas on drag banshees screw xibit!

PMed you with what you were asking for the -1

Rite, but when you dont use it for a while you totaly forget how to do complicated problems. Thats where calculators Tape Measures and electronical micrometers (I do my stuff the cheater way with the Micrometers) :yelrotflmao: ect... Come in real handy.

Im looking for an Aftermarket -1 roundhouse swingarm. Lonestar Janssen Laeger Roll Design ect. Needs to be Chromoly. Respond here PM me or email me [email protected] Ill look at a -2 but I weigh more than most racers so traction isent a huge issue. Too much traction an on your ass you go.

Will you end early? PM Me.

Yeah thats a clean 90, They are a friggin pain in the ass to work on though. Im always toying around with something on my buddies 01. Im gonna fix it all up for him and sell it in cycle trader or something so he can get a Banshee to semi keep up. He rode my Banshee dident even really hit the power band rite and came back and looked at his warroir like it just shit on his carpet.

Sweet :thumbsup: I have to get one like that for mine I just have the pingle toggled with a pin How do you like your Elkas so far? Have you got to fully test them out yet? Thats a badass combo with the Laeges and Elkas :thumbsup:

Your a good dude Meat. Ill be getting my premium status on payday. I cant bid on the grabbar cause I have just enough for the 2:1 carb and intake Im suposto be getting hooked up with on another site. I have half a mind to bid and upgrade now cause this dudes been dickin around but its just too good of a deal to even think about passing. How much are them IMS Bumpers new and how much did it cost to powdercoat? I dont have the books in front of me and I dont feel like looking.

F*** your couch nigga, If I was a celeb and be followed all of the time I would just start knocking *********** out. They take you to court and sue you, so, your rich. Then you are known as the person who just whales on people for taking your pics. That would probably make you more money.

Damn I thought I had a shot at it for a minute there. I cant get into a bidding war with dude I need preformance parts first.

I dont know what your talking about, I ran the 280s all summer/fall and it was dialed in perfect. I am running the airbox with 12 1" holes and 1" filters

Yeah man I hear you. I have all the stuff for the Banshee and a. its been to cold to go up and work on cause the stove in my camp still isent in (I just stare at the parts alot) b. Im not going to put the A-Arms on untill I get my front shocks. Its been warming up and I have the money for the e36s and a down payment on the elite rear/linkage so it shouldnt be to much longer. Im getting a 2:1 carb setup too:)

No it doesnt affect jetting.

I wrote these up a while ago for the Noss Head install. Only diffrence is your gonna need longer cylinder studs for the coolhead. I recomend getting a new O Ring set too for cheap insurance. TIP When you remove your radiator hoses make sure you have a coffee can avabile. Take the plastics and gas tank off before you do anything. Also there are two screws on both sides of the motor(your jugs) rite by where your pipes start to get fat(TR6s in my case). You must remove them screws to let the rest of the coolant out or coolant will run down in your cylinder walls and if you dont get all of that out it could be corrosive to your piston rings. Remove these bolts and let the rest of the coolant run out before you take your stock head off! Im pretty sure the bolts are 10mm. You will need an open box end wrench to remove the bolts. The one screw dident come out all of the way for me cause the pipe was in the way so I had coolant run down my walls. That took me almost 30 minutes to sop out all of that coolant. So you might want to take your pipe off. If you chose not too and the screw doesnt come out all of the way tip your quad over and try to shake all of the coolant out of the loose bolt side. If you do get coolant in your walls GET IT ALL OUT. I just took paper towels and ripped them and folded them into little squares and kept dipping them in the walls to collect collant untill I seen NO COOLANT LEFT! A Spounge would have probably been better. after that take your head off in the numbered pateren and put your new head on the same way. I also used a decent amount of grease to put my O rings in. The O rings take over any gasket function so you can remove and throw away your old head gasket. Dont be afraid to apply grease to hold the orings in place cause it will all burn off anyway. When you apply the big O ring to the base gasket push it in a little at a time donot run the oring with your fingers or you will stretch it and have to start over again by pushing it in place not gliding. Then put your domes on top of the cylinders SLIDE DONT PUSH the base gasket over the domes. Make sure your Orings are still in place when you do this. After the base gasket is on your ready to put your new head on. Do that tighten the bolts connect all your hoses back up then TORQUE yout bolts on the head down to atleast 18ft pounds 20 is recomended. You will have to squish the copper washers down when your sealing the bolts back in so dont worry if it feels like your going over 20ft lbs. Do make sure your wrence is properly calibrated though. After you do this your gonna want to ride it. I sugust RIDING IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!!!!!

pfffft my sisters pink huffy makes more than that

Agreed, Brent is an exalant buyer and a good guy. if there were more people like him everyone would be happy :thumbsup:

54-56

The Sanddragon Ultra Cross arms are nice but the yfz shocks dont hold a stick to Elkas Ive never tried ishocks but Ide be willing to bet they are better shocks than the yfzs. The ishock 700 dollar package looks nice but I would go for the ASR +2+1 And the Elka dual rate e36s setup to your weight and riding style for 50 some dollars more than the ishocks package and I would definatly rather get Elkas on a Banshee than ishocks.Elkas are proven and more people will say Elka makes the better shocks of the two. Plus you have the option to save and get the Elka rear with the new linkage. I can get you a really good price on the Elkas and I might be able to get you a nicer set of A-Arms for cheaper I havent checked A-Arms prices other than Lonestar Laeger and Houser and they run more than ASR. I bought the Lonestar +2+1 Racing A-Arms. PM me if your intrested. Im sure a few people will vouche for me on here.