Washburn

Im getting 2 Pro Design Impellers instead. 1 Will be brand new in its packaging 1 will be opened for a simulation test then sold. Thank You

The biggest diffrences is the upper J ARMs from 87-90 and some Electrical diffrences CDI Box and Connectors. They changed the swingarm carrier from a 2 bearing to a 3 bearing Im pretty damn sure in the later years and thats about it. Colors of course. For 300 Dollars you cant lose unless the frame, motor, shocks, J Arms, swingarm, axle,Plastics are useless. If most of it is salvagable you can Part it out if you dont feel like working on it and make money. If you want to try and Build it It is going to be one hell of a project for sure, New bushings, Bearings all around. Possibly new cyl sleeves,Pistons, new crank and gears Unless the Bottom end dident suffer any damage witch is definatly possible. Oh and if you dont Take it depening on where you are located DIBS!!!!!!!!! I repeat DIIIIIIIIIBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I can give you some cash and the hookup on Parts for yours. Let me know. If you Decide to keep it as a project bike and you need new Parts I can hook you up on that too so either way it looks like your going to make out.

They have pretty damn good prices actualy. I cant comment on their servce and wait time cause Ive never dealt with them. You Can Also Check out Buchanan Racing. Im Working on getting the site Launched and Im taking a few orders for HQ Members (Ask Around) untill its up and see what we can do for you and your Laeger/Elka Dune Setup. Tell me what style Laeger A-Arms your looking at and What Modle Elka Shocks I will give you a Price and work with you to see if that is the best setup for your Needs. As Aot of people on this Board know I am a Huge Fan of Laeger Components and Elka Shocks. PM Me or E Mail me [email protected] We will do our absolute best to make sure you have the best setup for your Needs.

Ive never heard of this but I am very glad I read this. I am going to do alot of research and get a Pro Design Impeller and compare them with My Mechanic and do some simulation tests. If I find out they are not up to par I will get more Pro Design Impellers. I need more acurate information to be sure. ModQuad makes Excalant Products and so does Pro Design. Im going to get a Bunch of the ModQuad Engraved designed Anodized Gas Caps. I think they are super Nice. Heads up

WELCOME HOME SETH. I LOVE YOU BROTHER. Premix I use Maxmia Castor 927 It burns clean so no carbon build up and has a very strong film strength so it will keep your pistons/Crank lubed at all times with absolutly no worries. I switched from Yamalube 2-R Witch is also a good premix if thats all you can get, get it. No worries. I used Yamalube 2-R in my LT250R For 10 Years with no problemos! Gear/Clutch Oil I use MOTOREX FULLY SYNTHETIC 30w it is a superior Oil and the 30w Flows better IMO. Use 1.5 Quarts that is plenty. Alot of guys use 2 quarts each oil change. That is not a good Idea. It builds up to much pressure and it doesnt flow as well as it should. Yamaha Manufactures suguested 1.6 quarts 1.5 is fine that way 3 quarts is 2 oil changes. BelRay Gear Saver 30w is also a good Oil. Yamalube 4 30w is fine too for your trans fluid. All 1.5 quarts http://www.ktm-parts.com/Merchant2/merchan...t_Code=36030002 This is the Shit! Stay away from the Car motor oils espicaly the Synthetics Like Mobil 1. Even if they state they are safe to use for a wet clutch it will more than likely soak into your clutch lates and make it slip and end up costing you new plates mabey more and instalation headaches. For Radiator Coolant I Highly Recomend to stick with a 50/50 Blend like Maxima 50/50 or Honda HP 50/50. Its cold in main so you will need the antifreeze. When it gets warmer you can go to Engine Ice if you choose. I am going to try that this summer instead of the usual Maxima 50/50 to see if I can see a cooling diffrence in the warm/hot weather. DOT 4 Break Fluid. Buy 2 or 3 and Bleed your breaks to make sure the break lines are in good working order. Clymers Manual will give you all of the specifics. You have one. Read it all.

Yes Jason it comes with the bolts brand new in the package. I like that its the Billit one too. I wouldnt ride without one. Let me know if you want it and I will ship it out first thing tomorow. 3 I dident forget about you as soon as I get your sets in I will ship them out :cool: Paypal [email protected] Just leave a decription. We accept Credit Cards Also all you have to do is call Buchanan Racing and Speak to Cody Buchanan. Give him your information and the parts you want and they will be shipped out same day as long as we have what you want in stock. If not allow 7-10 Business days for your Parts. I will set up a Paypal Account for Buchanan Racing as soon as I get the website up (Should be another month or so). Then in time I will look into a shoping cart on the site and I will make sure to list what is in stock on the site so there is no confusion. Thank you all, Neil Collins PM me for more Infomation and any questions you may have and I will answer them ASAP!

Those edges look really round to me. Normal from what I have seen from the shift stars but I know I would have problems with one of them as hard and as often as I shift. Has anyone seen these??? http://cgi.ebay.com/Yamaha-Banshee-shift-s...1QQcmdZViewItem

Never had them but more flow isent Always better. it all depends. That could be there to atomize the flow.

1 Impeller Sold Pending Payment I have 2 more Modquad Billit Impellers comming in wensday.

Both Brand new still in package Modquad Billit Impeller- 58.00 Shipped Modquad Billit Case Saver- 30.00 Shipped 85.00 shipped for both Pro Design Timing Plate (Brand New Still in Package)- 68.00 Shipped 150.00 shipped for everything Stock Head Uncut off an 03 MINT 40.00 Shipped Stock Intake Manifolds and stock reeds with stock reed pedals off an 03 MINT + Free Boost Bottle if you need it 35.00 shipped All Prices FIRM will discount shipping if you buy one or more Items. 210.00 shipped for everything

Yup, alot of people do that and they do have to rebuild alot more often. I dont care if you have 100:1 oil from outerspace if you mix it at that ratio your going to have to rebuild pretty often. Never done it myself but Ive seen it done and sure enough those were the people constantly rebuilding. To some people its worth it. Others think it will last as long as say Castor 927 mixed at 32:1 but from what I have seen lets just say alot of blown top ends.

Blue Duece I like you man, Youve gave me killer information and your a cool dude. I see what you are saying sure but Im sure Jeff told him it was going to be a while. Now you adding 40 employes is great for your buisness Im sure but for porting engines I want to know the company I send MY motor to is being done by the guy who owns the company. Im sure many others feel this way too and thats why noone really has assembly line Trinity do their jugs cause you never know whos going to do your jugs. If I dident have my own mechanic who I feel very comfterble with I wouldnt have a problem going to Jim (Passions) Jeff (F.A.S.T.) Or Dave Moore (All really good at what they do) and waiting a few months before sending my jugs to someone I dont know well. Some things are worth the wait for many reasons.

Let me know what you have. Im shoping for a buddie. He wants a 400ex modded would be a plus with a 416 or 426 kit mabey a 440 kit. Has to be in good condition and in a good price range. He wants to see it and ride it before he buys so anywhere around the Pitsburgh WV and suronding areas.

Yeah really.

On a 2 stroke you have to keep the port hights rite on par with the desired RPM range. If you raise the exhaust or intake to high it will only be a top end motor. There is a science to it. If you want to try it yourself Im sure you could buy a template off a known buildr but you would have to have the rite tools.

Go back to the stock position on your needle 3rd clip 25 piolets and 280-300 mains and turn your idle screw at half turn incriments from 1/12. 20cc domes and +7 timing on 110 octane will do the trick also a 33-35mm 2:1 carb will greatly improve bottom and top over stock carbs. Other than that a 4mil stroker ported by the rite person and you will have gobs of torque while still having the Banshee hit. Plus T5s are more of a top end pipe Dynoport 2:1 or PT Mids if you really want to improve bottom.

If your talking about the IMS footpegs there is noway your going to find them for 40 bucks unless you know someone who is willing to cut you a super cheap deal on some used ones.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BANSHEE-SEA...090436397QQrdZ1

Did you try spraying it heavily with liquid wrench letting it soak for about 20 and pounding it with a rubber mallet or a piece of a 2xheavy and a mallet. Thats simple and should do it.

We looked at a 426 ex that was in horrible shape and a Z400. I couldnt believe you had to take the tank off to get to the plug. I never noticed that and Ive rode 450s. That sucks. He said hes not getting it just because of that. If he gets it (YFZ) im gonna have my mechanic put in an oil pump if its an older modle YFZ and get a better a drain plug. Both Easy fixes. I liked the LT450R nice wide stance 48' everything else looked tight on it too.

I go through one heat cycle, bliping the throttle every few seconds for about 15 minutes. Let it cool all the way down. Then take it for a 15 minute ride baby it through all of the gears let it cool all of the way down again retorque. Then a practice run through the trails not quite hitting WOT But accelerating and deaccelerating for that 15-20 minutes. cool all the way down retorque. Then RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!!!

If you spend most of your time riding in the Dunes the T5s are gonna be your best bet. Great Mid/Top pull and if you plan on porting it later witch you probably will riding dunes you wont have to switch pipes from the TR6s to T5s. The Toomey pipes are definatly better than the FMF. Ive rode all three and I never felt near as much pull from the FMFs. The FMFs might have a tad bit more on bottom than the TR6s but its not really that noticable and the mid/top end pull of either T5 or TR6 more than make up for that. They last longer and rev more. Banshees arent know for there bottom end anyway unless you put alot of time and $$$ into waking it up like Im doing and in that case neither Toomey or FMF do justice. The TR6s are definatly better than the T5s for a stock ported Banshee with all of the major bolt ons but the diffrence isent astonishing. The TR6s just have more usefull power but not as much top end as the T5s. This is my personal expirence with the diffrent pipes on the Banshee. Other people may have diffrent views.

This is an amusing thread. Im not one to take sides on here unless I need to but Cats and E Fights, wookies and circus folk. Some information on Dynos Good shit :thumbsup: but Where is the Dyno numbers on the Banshee? Im still curious. I think a new thread with what you had done with Dyno numbers and what you have done with Dyno numbers would be informitive. Some pics of the port work would be good as well.

Im not sure. Since your only 15 minutes away from Buchanan Racing Ide go in and ask Cody. Plus Im looking for a cheap extended axle if you dont want it I might take it off your hands for a reasonable price. Those spacers would have to come off though. I have credit at the shop so he can cash you out. Let me know.

Im going with my buddie in a few hours to look at some used 450s. Is there anything I should look closley at? Im going to bring my comp tester what compression should these things be at? Im gonna look at the spark plug and check the oil. Stand it up and look for any little cracks or dents and play on the arms ect. Check for bad bearings all around. We are more than likely going to a dealership so I cant take it apart like I like to when looking at used bikes but Im gonna go over it as best I can. Are there any tips with these new 450s? What to look at, check out ect... There a Badass 04 Banshee out there too. Im gonna try to talk him into that. Thanks guys.