Washburn

Thats fuckin cool man I cant wait. Start a new thred when your ready to sell them to the public! :cool:

Just plug it as long as its not on the sidewall a plug will be fine. Fix a flat slime ect are just bandaids they will wear with time a plug wont fade at all. I had 5 plugs in my front holeshot when I had my LT250R and it lasted a year untill I sliced my sidewall.

True. Good luck bro. You should check out some info on Rhinos and UTE quads cause they are complicated. To me anyway. I could and did flip Banshee and 450 parts all day.

http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php...threadid=352431 For Sale- Lonestar Outlaw Banshee Chassis with 250R Geometry. Included are: * Lonestar Frame. No link frame with pro peg mounts. * Lonestar Subframe * Lonestar Outlaw T-Pin Frontend (Lonestar's version of Pro-Trax)- upper arms are chrome * Lonestar no link Swingarm * Lonestar anti-vibe steering stem- chrome * Pro peg nerf bars * Lonestar Axle- chrome * Lonestar Carrier * PEP ZPS no link rear shock * Duncan "TT" front bumper- chrome * Lots of misc. parts, hubs, calipers, radiator, gas tank, etc. Seems to me that thats almost a too good to be true deal. If I had the green I would jump on it in a second.

First Im sorry to hear about that and the theives should be shot. Now Insurance companys are gonna try and screw you over.Its the nature of their business. My camp burnt down and we barely got hald of what we should have got. Deprication. Let them make a few ofers and see if they raise each time try to get within 700 of what you want out of it. Also as said getting bikes that are comprable to yours is a good idead but how are the insurance company know thats what kind of bike you had? Im curious about this myself. Witnesses? Also try to call around where you got your parts and stuff and see if they will give you recipts based on the information you gave them. Credit/Debit card Ide imagine.

I already have 1 HQer comming up my place to ride and you are also more than welcome on that or any other weekend Im up there. Its near Grove City in Nectarine village. But yeah if you already have suspension and wider control arms you are set to compete just be prepared to use every muscle in your body even ones you dident even know were there racing competitivly on a Banshee without all of the things I have in my sig its pretty brutal but if your in decent shape you dont have to worry. plus a CamelBack with PLENTY of water will come in real handy.

You can always get aftermarket shocks and get them valved and sprung for stock a arms and whatever your riding style is weight ect. and depending on how acurate you need your shocks to be you could get +2+1 a arms and just change out the main springs to a stiffer rate for like 50 bucks. Plus riding with wider a arms and stock suspension is askin for a bottom out misaligned crash.

I know a few guys that race the AWRCS http://awrcs.com/ IN Pro and XC1 mostly 4 strokes. I know a few guys that tried racing Banshees on the diffrent tracks but said the 450s are more comfterble. I was gonna try on my Banshee this year but I have to much going on with my leg and back to truely compete. It can definatly be done but get ready to spend alot of cabbage on suspension a arms the list goes on and on

Yeah those AC nerfs look awsome. Ill tell you though the DG Steel series nerfs I have on mine are as tough as nails. I alreay had to flip the bike over useing nothing but the nerfs in a nasty ass swamp, bike almost submerged in water and everytime I got it out it would dig another nasty hole, took me about 2 hours and all of my strength to get it out. My Renthal Fatbars dident bend either. I got lucky and I think the frame would bend before they would. Thank God it dident bend on me though.

Because they are made of mild steel and not chromoly. And you dont get a carrier or bushings with it. Still a bargin though. For all who has them are they alot tougher than the stock swingarm? If so I may possibly buy one as Im not sure how my stock gusseted swingarm will work with how hard I ride and how big I am.

Thats some bullshit, it sounds like you just got the run around and its like that with many companys. I got my LSR fully adj a arms in 3 weeks but I dident get them powder coated I just though get them straight up so I dont have to wat 2 months. I had problems with Elka on my rear end setup.I got them in 3 weeks but The spring was to wide to fit the stock and -3 lonestar swingarm so I needed the inside box of my stock swingarm cut and gusseted to fit the dimentions of the LT Shock and Elka sent me a spring that was even wider. WTF I said. It just got done and its on there finaly but it costed me 200.00 bucks. I cant wait to ride it next weekend though. The front Elka elites are definatly worth it to me and Im guessing the rear will work like a dream too. Waiting does suck balls though.

I have to finish a job all this weekend I might take sunday off but I have to do all of the finishing touches on monday. Oh well I finaly got a guy to modify and regusset my swingarm to get my rear pro dual linkage and Elka LT rear on so next weekend its on!

If it were me Ide bite the bullet and go wih Elkas. They have been doing it the longest and you dont hear many complaints.

IDK is it me or do you all see how that head is warped. It surely does look like a Mod Quad head though. Ive heard engine ice is better for running in heat but I use the 50/50 stuff cause I ride in some cold shit and engine ice only has a capasity of like 35*

I heard it was the Banshee bro deal. You know you stap a dildo to a Banshee go forward and hit the breaks when you want it to come out, gas again then break when you want it to come out, gas then break when you want it to come out. Well I have heard of these things but never witnesed one and surley never did one. I SWEAR!

Bet your taking the beast 525xc huh:) Let us know how it turns out.

as far as rebuilding the shocks Elka will do it GT Thunder (I Highly recomend them) will rebuild them for 75-100 and you may just need new main springs if the shocks are too soft for you and thats only around 50 bucks from Elka. I think they look really good and are ready to bolt on and go.

Yes you can put a set of aftermarket shocks on your stock a arms then put them on a +2+1 set later on but you will need new stiffer main springs but they only run about 50-60 bucks. I run Elkas and I highly recomend them over any works shock. Even the Elka std no piggyback edition are a well worthy investment.

yeah, go with a new front end first because that is what is going to make you fast in the trails. Keeping the power to the ground and having a smooth ride over harsh choppy shit. then some motor work. I dont really like the yfz450 front end on a banshee it sags to low your better off buying a set of +2+1 a arms and getting some decent shocks like Elka PEP TCS Or Axis if you have the money. You can also shop around the for sale section on this board theres always killer deals or ebay if you want used.

Exactaly, One shock could be better for someone than another. It is all prefrence, feedback from others, and searching as much as you can about the products you are looking to buy. Ive rode on a bunch of diffrent bikes with diffrent suspension setups and I was suprised sometimes on wich brand I liked better but its all about how the shocks are setup. You can have the most expensive shocks out there and like a set of a diffrent or the same brand much better on a diffrent bike if its setup rite.

I know that my fenders keep alot of dirt/mud Off of me even being as wide as I am and dont get the bike as dirty. I would never cut my fenders for trail riding. Dune riding, well thats a diffrent story.

I think they look killer. Yours too Jonnyb. I would imagine that the paint you used wont hold up anywhere near as long as Hi Temp paint. I would worry about getting them wet while theyre really hot.

My personal prefrence and from what I hear about the 2 brands is Elka is the better of the 2 for dirt riding and Ive also heard The Fox Evols fade alot faster than Elkas.

"195 main, 45 pilot and eej needle in the middle clip" Yeah that sounds on, thats what Im running in my single 35pwk and Im spot on. but if you say its boggy in the upper rpms you could try a 200 main and see if it helps out more. Are you running a K&N straight off the carb or are you running the airbox? Ide go down a size on the main if your running the filter straight off the carb.

My guess would be dirty carbs or your piolet jets are to small. Open them up and spray it real good with some carb cleaner. Also when you changed the air filter you got her Banshee to breath better so like I said you may want to go up a size on your piolets.