Washburn

Yeah, like 2 psi. Im a little more handy with a tire that runs on like 4 mabey 1 more.

Whaaaaaaa? No shit? I gotta check this out.

Razr 2s all around my friend. I and just about every racer I know swears by them for any kind of dirt great bite all around. And they last soooooo soooooo much longer than holeshots. You can get 7-8 hardcore 2 hour rough track as rough as it comes races on a rear set of Razr 2s and about 4 on a set of Holeshot GNCC or any other Holeshot even the HDs. I think that speaks for itself EL JEFE.

Supply and Demand, Laeger werent selling enough of them so they 86ed it. Lonestar still makes a 250R geo chassie I believe. Its just as nice too.

Yeah its all thrown together, so what. You get the point. And I figured, but if I can get someone to give me what I bought and put into my Banshee. TAKE IT ITS YOURS. hA YEAH 10,500 Hes trying to get what he put into it. Very hard unless someone is really hard up for a tricked out Racer and they dont want to go through all the trouble of putting one together.

Make me an offer on mine. Mine is 100xs better and just as well cared for as that Banshee if not more. Probably more. I have more little shit I dont have in my profile, steering stabilizer and +2+2 adjustable axle will be included! I can have it shipped to you and I can have the shocks resprung and revalved for a fraction of the price Elka would charge and Ide get a better job done for you. Ask anyone who bought Elkas from me on this board! Engine is total Virgin, stock bore stock ports, 157PSI Each Cylinder and a very sucsusfull leakdown test was preformed 2 weeks ago!

I know a few guys who sell their custom designd die grind created and computer generated port maps. Ask Jim at Passion Racing thats who I would ask first if I wanted to aquire a cirten port map. He has over 150 computer generated port maps for 350 cylinders. I know of a few local guys who got em too. Real strong port maps. Try Macdizzy too.

Unless the plugs you had in there were serverly fouled youde still get some sort of spark and changing them out and still not getting spark you have a wireing delimea. Check around your stator and inspect throughly. Every 2 stroke I ever had LT250R Banshee friends CR250 500 Another friends yz250 all used B8ES. Thats all I ever run and have ran for 15+ years. I have the BR8ES in there now cause thats all autozone had boxes of and they run 2.09 a piece there instead of 5 something at the stealership. and the resistor plugs dont make a bit of diffrence unless your friend has a radio on his DS650 and doesnt want you cutting out the signal :ermm:

No, there has to be a way around that. Lonestar makes a stem that goes up to +2 forward and 2 inches to 4inches up so you could put 1 and 1 eighth clamps for the Flexx bars on the antvibe LSR Clamp. There has to be a wway around that. Ill ask Cody next time I talk to him. And yes RagunCajun linked up a pretty good site for Fasst Flexx bars 319.00 free shipping is a great deal. I payed 305.00 for mine at my buddies shop but 7% PA Tax came to like 332.00 damn taxes. http://www.motosport.com/atv/product/FASST...asst+flexx+bars Get the 14 degree ATV Woods bend they have a straightness to them like a drag bar but with a bend at the ends of the bars. Its an excalent fit.

Awsome, thanks guys. Alrite I rejetted and I was rich. I had a Friggin 205 in there some how so I backed off to a 200 and its fine. Its my float levels its stuck in a position where its starving the motor for fuel at high RPMs. So in that manner it is running lean:) You guys sure did help a shitload and I appricate it Immencly Im worn out from riding this weekend. I put my new Fasst Flexx bars on and they RULE!!!!!!! I went through 5 tanks of gas in 2 and a half days and still did other shit! What a Ruuuussssssssshhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Im sriously overwhelmed at how well these bars preform. I expected a little less vibration and less arm pump but shit 330 bucks it better do that. Well it did that and a HELL OF ALOT MORE. I put in the blue elastometers for less up and down movement over ruts and roots and just that alone was worth it. I cant tell you how much less up and down movement there is and the vibration and hard hitting heavy bucking of my old Renthal Fatbars are no longer an issue with Flexx bars. These bars team up with the suspension and just pulverize any kind of abuse to your arms upper chest forget about getting tossed from your bars ever again. I rode so much harder and so much longer than I ever did before with absolutly no arm pump. Simply Amazing. Would I buy them again? Is it worth $330.00 YES EVERY PENNY!!!!!! I just bought my Lonestar 4130 Chromoly steering stem with Antivibe clamp too. They will be in for my next ride. Im exhuasted from riding all weekend. :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

As hard and as fast as the motor lets me. If Im on the throttle I dont let up Im always in high rpms and if I hit a straight away its reving from there as hard as it can. My guy said again on the phone he thinks its still rich. He knows my jetting though and you guys dont. Ive been running a 190 main in the hotter season and a 195 in the colder season, More I think of it I dident switch back to a 190 Im still running my winter jetting. So atleast if its running rich and only at high speeds Im thinking I dident harm anything and Im fine. I have a huge ride/race day on saturday then my girl and a few of her friends are comming up on sunday till monday and the Banshee MUST RUN!

Anymore tips guys? I wont have access to a PC when I get up there. I already have a 195, 200 and 210 on hold should I look into anything else? As soon as I up the main jet Im just gonna run it, hope it runs well and if it does not worry about looking into the motor. Or should I mabey take the head off and look at the tops of the pistons? Anything else anyone can think of that I should check? Anything? Thanks again Neil

WOW! Thanks guys! I was thinking it was rich because of the heat comming off the motor,head, and pipes and my plugs look too dark. But now that you guys mention it I probably am or definatly could be running lean, and Ill bump up the maiin to a 200 and go from there. Cant hurt thats for sure. Yeah and I did run 2 tank fulls out of her while shee was running this way so I may well have done damage. I look at it this way though its an 03 and its on its stock bore stock ports. Everything inside the engine is virgin. So it is about that time mabey to bore it .10 over and get some wesico pro lites in there and mabey just mabey do my 4 mil lowend GNCC Port. I have the PT Mids to match. I might put them on to switch up from my TR6s this weekend. Keep the information comming, anything you can think of write down and I/we (thats why I love this board) will go over the answers. Thank you all, Neil AKA Washburn

First I have a Trinity intake with a single 35PWK with the airbox adaptor plate on the airbox a single uni filter and the lid on. I tried pulling the lid off and running it on straight country roads 1-5 (try for 6 but no go youll see why below) for more airflow to see if it would help my boggy case out and it made little to no diffrence. I can ride fine and fast 1-3 and shee runs great. but when I get into fast sections that call for 4th and above shee gets real boggy when I hit a cirten speed. usualy halfway through 4th or rite at 5th. brappp braaaaaaaaapppppp braaaaaaaaaaaaaaapp braaaaaaaaaappppppppbummbummmm dead. I have to let the throttle out and hold it quarter of the way in at 4th for it to steady run. Im thinking, Hopeing actualy, that Im just to rich on the main being a 195 (Winter jetting in the first place) rite now so Ill move down to a 190 and hope that does the trick. Im no jetting genious by any means and I dont want to mess with the needel jet its rite in the middle 3rd clip and its been fine up untill now. My Fasst Flexxx bars are officaly in at my guys shop and ready to be instaled for Memorial day weekend. I dont want this problem to continue so any tips, suguestions, would really help me out. Thanks in Advance Washburn

Anyone have anything like this PM ME!

Do u have an Antivibe stem AND the ELKA Stabilizer? I thought you needed an aftermarket stem to run any stabilizer? If so how much? If not how much for the ELKA Stabilizer? System 3 or 5?

I finaly got caught up on some bills so I get to buy my Lonestar antivibe stem on monday, Im getting it +1forward+1rise. How well did those of you who put on an antivibe stem notice the diffrence? Truthfully Ide buy the Stabilizer first but it wont (None of them Presision,GPR,Scotts/Ohlins/Elka) Fit on the stock stem. Then next month Im gonna buy the Stablizer GPR More than likely. Cheaper than Presision and Elka and it adjusts on the fly. Then Finaly Im Buying the Fasst Flexxx bars. Im getting the fatbar but im not sure on what bend. Probably the same bend I have on my Renthal Fatbars now. So all of you guys who own or have tested these items, which ones really poped out at you. I also think Im going in the rite order as far as buying the stem/stab/then bars. any tips suguestions ect.. would be greatly appricated. this isent cheap stuff. Also I think those PEP Stabilizers are junk, espically compared to a Scotts Elka or GPR Real Stabilizer. Or Ide save 500 probably more. That I dont really have in the first place ::

What is the absolute best headlights for Lighting up the trails? Any kits with the heavier flywheel?

If you guys are running anything technical, at all, cornering and jumping alot even taking hills try atleast a stock swingarm and you will sell your +2 guarenteed. Night and day diffrence.

oh yeah, it just jumped out in front of you, I wanna see pics of that warped rotor too, must have been a pretty bad wreck if you busted that, your wheel AND your back plastics:biggrin:

To tell you the truth Im not 100% sure and I cant find out untill I go up my camp again in like 2 weeks. It very well could be stock as I bought it used, changed the main and piolet up 1 size each and it rode through each gear beautifuly, no bogs anywhere, and the plugs were golden brown. I do think I remember Cody saying it is an eek but I could be taking that out of context from another Banshee I seen him working on with the same carb setup. Im far from knowing close to as much about this setup as you but the way I hear you always say the stock needel is shit and baseing how well it ran after I changed the jets Im thinking it is an aftermarket needel just from what you say. Could you give me a rundown anyway saying it could be the needel making it do that and assuming its an eek or dek. If its stock Ill just swap it out for what you think since Cody has them in stock.

I had the Bansh out for a few hours in the trails hitting 1-4 and its running like a raped ape. I couldnt ask for better preformance. However I got onto an open road where I could max her out and as soon as I hit 5th gear its bogs down same thing happens when I put it into 6th. I have it jetted for warmer weather since I dident really ride at all in the cold season and it dident have this problem last spring/summer. Here are the jetting specs for my Trinity 2:1 intake with a single 35PWK and airbox adaptor with a Uni foam Filter (Clean and oiled). Im running about 1800 feet above sea level and the current temps are in the mid 50s low 60s 195 main jet 52 Piolet Needel rite in the middel 3rd clip Thanks for any tips in advance.

This is going to be my next purchase then a stabilizer so What do you guys think is the best anti vibe stem on the market and why? Roll Design? Lonestar? Tell me your expirences with the ones you have. Thanks Washburn,

no major problems if your just casualy riding but it can overheat alot quicker than if you have a coolhead/Billit impeller installed and your going through tight/technical/dirty/muddy shit or riding it for extended periods of time. I also have a Nosshead and it is noticeably cooler over stock.