jlsparky7

Itll be fine, i know of a few people that run it...

Im not gathering what you are saying... There is no way for that much gas to get out of the float bowl.... The bowl is just that, a bowl... Its like saying I filled a cup of water then the next day the water was gone... The plunger only stop fuel flow of the float is engaged... The needle is only used when there is air flowing through the carb....

It can only be one of the things here... Compression (should be above 100) Timing (Check your flywheel key) Spark (put new plugs in and check gap and check for spark) Fuel (Clean properly mixed fuel, make sure plug is wet, try starting it with the gas cap loose too) Try a little starting fluid too, pop off the air filter give each carb a squirt and see if itll turn over a little.

By switches he might mean the tors? The stock pipes are horrible for getting gummed up with oil... That might be the problem. Are you sure you mixed 2 stroke oil in the tank? Hows the trans fluid level? Might be sucking trans fluid.

Sounds like it has an air pocket. If your gunna do a fuel filter I would recommend finding a way to mount it up and down preferably. Otherwise if it gets an air pocket it wont let the fuel flow. Spark compression timing fuel...

Do your own work. Save yourself the headache and money....

Depends on a lot of factors, wheel spin, tire size, even rider weight and suspension mods. You just gotta play around with different gearing and see what you like. With shorter gearing your power band with my more accessible in different gears but you will lose top end. Anything less then stock gearing IMO pretty much makes first gear useless... I run 13/41 on my shee with similar mods only mines a stroker and I haev to shift A LOT. Thats with a BROAD powerband and awesome low/mid range. You can gear higher and use first or gear lower and pretty much not use it... Heres a vid.... 13/41 gearing 2nd gear launch. 20in holeshot HD's 190lb rider

27.5 pilot 1.5 turns out and your problem will go away.

Bump it to a 280 and use 27.5 pilots. Id drain the coolant and trans oil and replace them. Dont know whats in there if you just got the quad.. Might be straight water, no coolant... Also might wanna inspect your water pump. Link in my signature has a ton of banshee how to vids if u need a hand.

Heres a vid of my PC's... Zero complaints about these pipes. I originally wanted PT's but couldnt find em in my price range. Got these for $200 shipped...

Rock on homeslice!

Love my pro circuits on my 4 mill....

Pro circuits are the way to go.... Along with a 4 mil here are the results. More low end then any 4 poke ive ridden...

Sounds like it might just be out of adjustment. If you adjust it at the clutch basket and pull the slack out through the handlebar adjustment and there is still too much play then your cable must be stretched....

Still need wheels and tires....

Any chance your engine is seized? Maybe a reed broke the the reed pedal is stuck in a intake or exhaust port? Clutch seated properly? and adjusted? sure its in neutral?

Hmmmm. Maybe check for damaged or missing pieces? :-/

U sure thats the parking break switch u are messing with? I just unclipped mine, didnt need to be spliced....

Maybe u can pick somethin outta my assembly vid?

Im pretty sure those o rings are designed to cut down on the vibration and "catchiness" of the clutch... Not sure if they are required on aftermarket clutches...

Clean them with a rag and whatever fluid you are gunna run them with. Just dab some on the rag and wipe them off... Careful not to bend them.

No prob man ^^^ I like his thinking... However if you never plan on running race fuel i would just get the head cut (allows room for the stroker you have to cut the head or get a spacer plate) and shaved (takes .0030 off the bottom of the head to increase compression and you will need to run 93-94 oct fuel) also its less then 1/2 the price of a cool head. Send out the head with the cylinders and order a 4mm stroker kit with it. When you have the bottom end apart figure out which bearings need replacing and order those and replace ALL seals. I included what i replaced in my vids. If you do what I did in my vid plus the port work (which i didnt do) itll run around $1350.00. I HIGHLY recommend if you have stock suspension to use the rest of that money on SS brake lines and some +2+1 a-arms and aftermarket shocks... Its a really bad idea to slap on all that power and not have a stable quad IMO. Oh, I didnt post my vids here of the shift star mod and the timing plate mod. They are on my youtube page. Also you may want to consider a new idler bearing and a pancake bearing while its apart.