brian

Good prices ??? Or do they think theyre plating it w/24carat gold ?

maybe your best bet is to start with a tors removal kit. there are idle speed adjustment screws on the top of the tors body. Adjusting them might help out a little, but since you've unplugged them anyway, might as well do it right. rockymountainatv.com sells kits for the removal. after you get it installed i would suggest that you check your jetting. also, what mods have been done to the bike ?

yeah, i was just being a smartass. LOL

Thats right Jeff ! I did go broke saving money. I got a quote from you many months ago. Tried to save money.................. Spent even more. Now I'm kickin my ass.

If it's that bad, adjusting the air screws prolly won't get you there. Has this setup run good in cold weather before ? Or, is this a new setup for you ?

have you tried an easy out ? It might come out pretty easily. Sometimes brass is quite brittle and it may have broken off without having too much pressure on it. P.S. if you do try an easy out, dont hammer it in really hard. just tap it in very lightly.

Brandon, I think it's cool that you posted this. I like to see people being encouraging. Too often, on this topic especially, some guys can get quite discouraging. And I also agree that education is the key to everything we do. Some things just take a lot more education than others.

Yeah, I think it will be cool. Especially if you are just matching the other one. You just need to measure the port heights from the deck and match em up. If you got the tools......go for it !

AMEN to that shit brothah !! :thumbsup: My whole point is that you should be able to bolt the part on. Not worry bout getting screwed. In this case, he was collecting parts for a future build. ALOT of people do that, myself included. Sometimes you can't see the fuckups in a part till you are installing it. But I guarantee that the fucker that sold it knew it was damaged or he wouldn't have gotten rid of it ! (That's not to say that honest guys that are upgrading their bikes sell crap, they're not the bad guys) If those parts he bought were just an honest mistake then why dont they pipe up now and offer to make it right. They have prolly all read this thread as they know who bought their parts and they can see he started this thread.

Personally, I feel for 98FLYGUY in this situation. I just "almost" finished a build and had some of the same b.s. buying used parts. I just dont have a bitch with anyone here. IMO, you guys that think anyone should expect damaged parts when buying used are FUCKEN CRAZY !!! I never expect to buy fucked up parts. I dont expect perfect parts, but I do expect that if you are selling me a part it will work for what it was intended for ! If it wont work for the application I expect that you throw the fucken thing in the garbage and dont saddle me with your shit ! If there is a problem with the part you should at least let the buyers know before the sale and they can decide if they want to deal with it. I would not sell the junk I have been saddled with. It is wrong to put your problems off on others. Because of a few Assholes, I will probably not buy many used parts in the future. Sooner or later, no one will buy used parts if ALL OF US do not speak out against that kind of shit. That includes not promoting the idea that you should expect a fucking when buying used parts.

If you don't need choke to start, the pilot is set too rich, choking richens the mixture to aid in starting the motor when it is cold. Turning the air srew out will lean that setting, but is sounds like you may need to go to the next lower pilot jet. The needle height does not affect idle. Needle controls 1/8 to 3/4 throttle position. Your current needle setting is almost as rich as it can be. Moving toward the blunt end of the needle will lean out the low to mid range. You could probably move to the middle clip position to see if it pulls better in the low range. Maybe even 2nd from the blunt end. You can do a plug chop (see plug chop on the threads here) for mid range, follow the same directions, just run it in the mid range, instead of full throttle. Also, I agree that the main might be a little lean. I just dont know because I dont know what your air quality is over there. Temp, humidity, bar.pressure all affect mixture as well as elevation. Choose only one circuit to work on first. Get it set and then move on to the next. That will keep you from pulling your hair out. I really think your best option is to run a plug chop for mains first before doing anything else. I like to work on the lean condition first.

Do you mean .018-.020 ? .18 is just short if 3/16ths of an inch.

Yeah, I paid for a set of cases that I never received. E-bay offers no help at all. They dont mind charging you fees for selling there though. Come to think of it, they probably collected fees for the sale of the cases I never received. They should've paid me that money at least. Right ?

So you just runnin with your hoodie and sum boxers ?? Must still be kinda cold huh ? :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Guys, I don't think he knows what size bore he currently has. That being said, he can't buy a topend kit first cuz he might buy it too small. He needs to tear the topend apart and send the cylinders to a decent builder who can bore/hone and sell him the right pistons. :yes: As said b4, call Jeff at FAST, or any other builder (PRE, HERR, etc.....) on here and they will get you fixed up right. It'll really suck if you buy a .020 over kit and it is already .030 over.

Are you just riding a stock shee ? Is the 450 stock ? How long of a race ? too long and that pred. will ride right by both of you it's top speed should be more than either bike.

yeah, what he ^ said. :thumbsup:

hell, i wish freezing here was 55 LOL !

keep in mind that you are only dealing with the low speed circuit here. idle to 1/8th throttle. you dont need to worry about burning up the motor from being too lean at this range. it wont act right if you are too far off. just adjust the air screw until it idles right and comes off and returns to idle smoothly. then it will be set right. it is not required to smoke to be running properly. that depends alot on the amount and type of premix oil you use. mine usually only smokes (very little) when it is cold. when it warms up there is almost never any smoke.

Those pilots have really tiny holes in em. Even if you could find out the size, the drill that size wouldn't be found in a standard drill index. You would have to try to find one elsewhere. It would probably take more time to find the drill than it would to get the proper jet from FAST. Also, it wouldn't be as easy as drilling out a main jet. If you are not perfectly steady you'll break that size drill really easily. Just my opinion, but modifying a pilot would prove to be more trouble than it's worth.

Check THIS out. You can look up the parts and see where they are located. If you click on the link, then go to carburetor, you will see that the needle set is item # 23. The pict shows where all the parts go. Also, get a clymers manual. They cover all of the banshee's parts pretty well. Gives step by step instructions for changing every part on the bike.

do you have a stock or aftermarket clutch basket and clutch ?

A stone wheel will load up with aluminum and get really hot. I've heard one explode b4. It wasn't good. The guy using it didn't get hurt but he coud have.

Yeah, what he said ^. Once the threads have been started (1.5 to 2 full turns) the tap will just pull itself thru while you turn it. No need to add any pressure after the start.

The coil is kinda a crapshoot IMO. Mine runs good, but tests bad every time. I just keep one handy to throw in there when out riding just in case I loose spark. Look in the Clymers manual for testing the stator. The directions in there are good and easy to follow. Ricky Stators are the best IMO.