brian

Calipers can be found at your local industrial supply store. They will have a pretty decent variety of them. I buy Mitutoyo calipers. There are a few others, but for the money they can't be beat. Just get digital calipers. That way you can choose between metric and standard measurement. DO NOT get a cheapass pair of calipers from the parts store !!! They are not accurate and break very easily.

Those KEYSERTS are the shit ! That is what machine shops use to repair threads that take alot of abuse. Another brand is Keensert. Both are pretty much the same. Much stronger and easier to install than Helicoils.

I would not tap using a drill. You should get a tapping handle and start the threads slowly by hand. That way you will have a little more control. If you get the tap cocked with the drill and pull the trigger you will cross thread really quickly.

While these two guys ^ are among the few people that I feel I can trust, I'd have to throw in a word of caution here. I just built a 4mil stroker. I thought I'd save a bunch of money and buy decent used parts. In all I was set to save about $500 total buying used. So far I have spent about $400 more than if I bought new parts. Personally, I'll probably not buy many used parts in the future. You might be a luckier person than me. I would just be very cautious about who you are getting your parts from.

Yeah, there is an existing hole there. It is really not too hard to do.

Yeah, Listen to Dave, he knows his shiat ! Also, you can get a twist throttle kit from rockymountainatv.com for $50-55 that includes the tors removal kit. The idle kit is sold seperately for about $30.

Yeah, I'd have a good builder look at the porting at a minimum. Just to be sure of what you have and wether or not it will run the way you want it to. I bought cylinders that were supposedly dune/mild drag ported for a 4mil. "As much as possible without going to a full drag port" is what I was told. A good builder later told me that it was a pretty mild port, and the cylinders would run fine with either a stock or 4mil crank, but wouldn't really get the full potential from either set up. Dont believe much of what other people tell you when youre buying used parts. Get it checked out or just plan on having the work done anyway.

Yeah, what he said.

If it idles ok dont worry bout the pilot. Just move the needle clip up (towards the blunt end) one notch and do a plug chop at mid range (follow plug chop directions-- just run half throttle instead of WOT). I think that air box is prolly hampering the air flow. Have you considered goin with pod filters ?

Yeah, Two to three short rides (20min. or so) never reaching more than 1/2 throttle and completely cooling between. Then.............ride the hell out of it.

welcome back ! Damn, I missed the HQ this weekend.

you should be able to tell the diff. just by looking at them yourself. if they were cut for a 4mil it should be noticeable. if you look at the shoulder right next to the o-ring groove the 4 mil cut domes should be about .080 deeper cut there. (right where the slope starts down toward the center) Like mentioned above, it is possible that the o-ring grooves are different between the two, but that is not always the case.

Setting the shee up for Alky is not that hard. I set up my stock carbs to run it, and liked it alot. I'll probably set up the 4mil for it soon. I have never set up larger carbs for alky but there are a few guys here that have. They are usually very helpful here. Just ask them, they'll explain it all to you. Also, there are alot of threads on Planet Sand on that topic. Be careful buyin shit over there tho. If you can get it cheap I'd say go for it. You will like it cuz it will run stronger, and the shee will like it cuz it will run cooler on alky. Smells really cool too. :thumbsup: Prices for Alky here are kinda funny. It was 2.12/ gal 3 weeks ago. Now it's up to 4.50/gal.

Also, you can do the plug chop for 1/2 to 3/4 throttle readings in the same manner. You just have to be more careful to hold the throttle in the same position throughout the test. Where did you get this motor ?

It does not need that much fuel. You need to look up threads on "Plug Chop" in this forum. When doing a wide open check like that the insulator will look white around the electrode for sure. You are not looking at the right part of the insulator. Read the info on plug chop and it will explain how to do it and what to look for when reading the plugs, but you have to follow the directions. You might also find some helpful info when doing an internet search. I have not really noticed a difference between race gas and regular pump gas when reading the plugs. Just make sure that you use the same premix oil and oil/fuel ratio that you are gonna use when you are riding.

Finally got that jetting dialed in right. :biggrin: Yeah, that thing pulls like crazy ! No problem running out 6th ! Aside from a couple of full on drag banshees, and a YFZ 450 on the bottle, there werent too many other bikes that could outrun it. Now that that works, gotta start the next project........... :beer: Lotsa beer ! And tryin to break it again. LOL

There is no "best pipe" for every riding style. You don't really want CPI of Shearer pipes unless you are getting a pretty agressive port job. They are DRAG pipes. I think the pipes you have are pretty good for the riding style you have mentioned. I have also used FMF Gold Series Fattys for similar riding with a mild trail/dune port. I was really impressed with them especially once I changed to K&N filter pods(no airbox). I have also heard really good things about all of the other major name pipes. If you make no other changes though, you will probably notice more of an appearance change than a performance one.

How did the gear kill your Cub ? I never heard of that.

Happy Birthday Chevy. Hope you have a great day ! :thumbsup:

Couple of pics from trip. me and my boy on a dune top at Lil Sahara me and my bro- same place

Ok Dave, Finally got the compression tested. LOL 155 psi both cylinders, give or take 1 or 2 psi.

I dont know for sure what to tell you, but I can tell you what I have going. I have a 4mil stroker with 20cc domes in a coolhead with CPI Inframes and K&N pod filters. Running 35mm PWKs. 45 pilot (a little too rich still) 2nd deck from the blunt end on needle (prolly close or a little lean when the main is right) 160 main (too rich, prolly wind up around 150-155) Keep in mind I was running at 60 degs.

I know that was uncalled for, but I couldn't resist !!!!!!!! LOL

The funny thing is that the previous POS motor would pull 6th gear. With a good start, I could even pull 6th up Test Hill out at Gordon's Well in CA. Not actually Jim's port. I just took some measurements and he ran them through his porting software to come up with port timing numbers. Based on those numbers he told me the porting is fairly mild. Still it's a good idea, he could probably give me an idea on the jetting. I set up the timing at 6 deg. advanced. The paddles are sand stars with 4 psi, so I think they're 8 paddles but not the same as haulers. I want to use 10 paddle haulers, but I think I need to figure this out first. If it cant pull these sand stars, it will never pull 10 paddle haulers. I am running a 13 tooth primary sprocket with the stock rear (41 I think). I knew you were gonna ask me bout the compression again. LOL I promise, I'll get it this week BTW Dave, I'm going to Lil Sahara again this coming weekend ! :tongue: Wish you could be there ! I'll be thinking of you when I'm shredding the faces of those dunes. LOL :yelrotflmao:

I guessed that, but do you think that much ?